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  2. Power hammer hack knife? of the curved variety, which, of course, is not sharpened, is thicker on top edge, thinner on the bottom edge and the protrusion works for the function of the tool. Was there a power hammer anywhere near?
  3. Nice find! Can you show us the anvils as well?
  4. Today
  5. Depending on the steel, commonly available oils are adequate and probably much cheaper. Do you plan on doing production smithing or professional bladesmithing? Unless you run across a can't pass it up deal I'd probably just get some canola or similar. I searched "steel quenchant for sale" and got a bunch of hits. Acculube looked the most promising. Also Brownells sells quench oil. Pnut (Mike)
  6. Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm going to keep it and mount it on an old beech stump I have lying around and then spend lots of time walking into it in my wee workshop haha. Thanks again
  7. Mine has the words MADE IN SWEDEN as yours does. Above that is the word KOHLSWA, but I can't see that on your anvil. Can you put some chalk or flour over those letters to see if there is any m0re? And please don't grind it. That is a lovely anvil just waiting for work.
  8. That makes me feel a lot better. I'm not the only one. I cut it up and rearranged the letters today, so all is good now.
  9. Would this burner work with my forge design? the inner volume is 296 inch cube The idea is to mount two of them on the roof/top
  10. So I've seen some old posts about quench oil but I was wondering if anyone knows if and what kind of places might sell 22 gallon or 55 gallon drums. I saw a 55 gallon drum of gulf super quench on Google for $520. I'm more than likely not gonna try and get anything that big soon unless it's convenient and I have the extra money at the time. Just one of those things I want to know how to acquire when it's needed. I read somewhere on here talking about being able to get drums of chevron quench oil "back in the day" so I'm not sure how long ago. I can't seem to find any oil suppliers via google, maybe I'm not using the right key words. All in all it would just be nice having a big old container of quench oil.
  11. OK, I had some spare time one evening, so was playing around on my CAD and worked up a Frankenburner. I have a sand casting setup, so I was trying to figure out how to make one that will be easy to sand cast. My thought was to make it in pieces that are then assembled, but as I looked at it the cleanup and assembly would probably make it not worth the trouble. Now I see that JWMelvin has got an open back with fins pushing the air into the spiral. How is that working? It's a shape that I could easily design a sand cast around. How does the flame look with a single nozzle rather then on a ribbon burner? I'd love to see a pic of it burning outside the forge. My other Dan R
  12. Good start! And good use of some AP Green bricks, I have a lot of those! WTH - flip the brick and see if there is any difference. You have nothing to loose, I doubt it will accelerate the gas much, but you will be able to see the difference between taper and no taper. It appears in the last pic that the flames are inside the tapers, which I think is not an advantage since it will heat the block more. The problem with backfiring that people have with the regular ribbon burners is after about an hour of running the face gets hot and allows the flame face to burn back into the plenum. In this case, the smaller holes should prevent this, so we are on virgin ground here. You won't know how it acts until it is in a forge and has run an hour or so. Absolutely! All these burners work differently inside a forge then they do outside. It's hard to see what the individual flames cones really look like because the pics are so small. Very promising start though. Dan R
  13. Hello guys I've just started building my first gas forge and I'm looking to coat my firebricks with Plistix 900f or itc100 but I'm having trouble finding sellers in Europe. Do I have any fellow Europeans in here that can point me in the right direction? I think I posted in the wrong section, how do I delete my post?
  14. My 2 cents. I've got one FARB and one NARB. The forced air is pretty much as Wayne Coe describes. The NARB is my own modification; an 8 x 2.5" using 122 holes @ 1/8" each. This doesn't really apply. The smaller the holes, the more the friction, so equal area with more smaller holes means less air then you expect. Besides, you are making a forced air unit, so you can push as much air as the fan will allow. I would make your burner with as many holes as possible, you can always plug them up. Better more holes, and plug them if you need to then not enough and have to recast. Example: I have a NARB with 122 1/8" holes. The injector is a standard 3/4" riel burner with a 1" nozzle, giving it an area of .79". The 122 x .125" nozzles on the ribbon burner head it runs have an area of 1.46", about twice as large. If you want to test your idea, put together all the metal parts and use a piece of wood with holes drilled in it for test burns. You can't run it more then 15 seconds or so, but you will be able to see if the number vs size vs CFM works well. Really, as long as you can push enough air through the holes you'll be fine. That's the advantage of a FARB. I like the idea of using smaller holes. 1/8" has worked very well for me allowing me to run the burner at very low pressure and up to welding. Yours are .14 which is close. I assume you mean plenum when you say "burner tube". Square pipe? The length Ive made mine is 1.5 to 2" on either side shorter then the inside length of the forge. So 10.5 is a little long, but it would work. 9-10" would be the max length. Others may disagree. 2" pipe is great. The bigger the better. From the top at a slight angle is what many do. With smaller holes like you have combustion completes closer to the burner face. My NARB has the burner pointing straight down, seems to work well for me, nice even heat. My FARB, which has larger nozzle holes, has the burner coming in horizontally, but it's a round forge so the circles the interior. Bottom line, both work. With a ribbon burner you'll get an even flame the length of the forge. At about .11 inches, the flame cannot burn up the hole and you will not get backfire. There's some discussion of this in the NARB section. I've found this to be true at .125" which is what I have on mine. You are talking about .14", so it should still work well. Dan R
  15. Joey van der Steeg Making chain, right and left handed. Forging nails
  16. Try mig welding the entire perimeter of the billet to stop chromium oxide from forming.
  17. After a number of heat cycles, I brought this forge up to full temp today. OMG!! I am very pleased with how it came out, and more so on how it work. I waited until darkness fell to film this to get a better view of the fuel rich swirl. Tuning is a breeze with the gate valve, and the needle valve. This thing ROARS! 20190526_213117.mp4
  18. I made a bunch of those out of small diameter copper rod that is around 5/32 in diameter. I bought a coil of it at Home Depot. The various wimmen-folk loved them. They were considerably smaller than the one pictured above.
  19. looks like its a belsaw machinery co 1080 belt sander. 42x1" or 44x1" compatable.. only have a 1/2 hp motor. im gonna offer him 50 then theres this one for 45$
  20. You have an anvil. A wire brush by hand will remove a lot of the rust, and hot metal will shine the face. You will never get the backstory and family ties on another anvil. If you sell the anvil, you will not make enough from the sale of this anvil to buy another anvil when you want to start blacksmithing. Anvils are useful tools to have around, from straightening nails, cracking walnuts, door stops, paperweights and yes, even working with metal. You can always sell it later.
  21. Unless you have a LOT of this painted metal available for free or less, delivered to your shop is a warning sign, stick with known metal and bare metal. The paint remover should have the credentials to deal with the haz-mat and toxic waste residue from the paint removal. Sand blasting or chemical removal of the paint must be added into the price, along with moving the painted material to the paint remover, and then moving it again to your place. New steel that somehow got bent and into the steel warehouse scrap heap is a bargain. Drops from folks that use a lot of steel in their work is another good source for steel.
  22. I updated my profile. I'm located in nevada county, California.
  23. tefc? yeah it looks prettt interchangeable. looks like theres spots already there for placing pullies. i cam think of a few variations just looking at it
  24. Looks like a neat old tool. Made of sheet metal though, so it may rattle around a bit if you are grinding metal with it. No rubber contact looks like it was designed for flat grinds. Motor may be just for wood..check it it is open face or TEFC. That lower smaller wheel could probably be repositioned towards the back you any size belt you wanted.
  25. someone bought it this morning i guess. bummer
  26. That certainly changes things. 8 hours, 65mph? ~500 miles? In a truck that is ~100$ in gas, plus motel costs, dinner costs... plus speeding ticket costs for going 75mph to try to beat that "other guy" who is getting off work in 3 hours.
  27. Then you need to rough straighten a section of the hoop and cut it just beyond 6 or 10 feet. You can then take a sorta straight 6 or 10 foot section, which can be a manageable length, and make it really straight.
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