All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Greencast 94 refractory questions

    Thanks for all the info. I should find that flux the stuff I’m using is eating my floor but I can’t remember the name of it at the moment. Thanks again guys.
  3. It followed me home

    Well, Das, now this has turned into being mean! Those jig saws look awesome. Bests: Gergely
  4. What did you do in the shop today?

    "petty and blunt" ???
  5. My daughter won't even let me give any of my grandchildren a ballpeen hammer---but the day is coming! (My Step Daughter's kids got a froe for Christmas and will probably get the hewing hatchet for the next one...)
  6. Today
  7. I made several tomahawks this weekend for my son, nephew and neighborhood boys. I did all the usual ways, upsetting the sharp end and also forging the head into the blade for a beard. Then i had a thought why not fold the end under the eye over in a faggot weld before slitting the eye. It gives a much bigger eye and pleasing balance. A preform photo attached. Im sure others have done this but i’d not seen it and thought to share. regards My sister inlaw was a little perturbed when he got his. Its got a round edge about like a pencil. He didnt put it down all day.
  8. What did you do in the shop today?

    Good, sometimes you have to be pretty blunt with academics. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. What did you do in the shop today?

    it will hurt more...
  10. Questions about Gas Forges

    It's catastrophic for the ad man's reliability. Means we can't trust anything he says about the product. You don't need to know how to weld to build a forge, nuts & bolts, rivets, sheet metal screws and such connectors will do just fine. Precautions are simple to prevent breathing ceramic blanket fibers, we go into that in some depth and detail in Forges 101. There are insulating fire bricks that will serve in a propane forge but I don't know how available they are to you. Probably just a little online shopping for K 26 refractory tiles. by Thermal Ceramics will set you up to make a basic brick pile forge. Just a stack of fire bricks forming a hollow chamber you can aim a burner into. You'll still want to coat the flame face with something to armor it, K 26 are soft bricks and will take mechanical damage with use. It is NOT hard to build a forge. Don't let your first ideas trap you into making something that could work a LOT better. Folks like Mike and I have made more than enough mistakes for everybody and we freely offer you the benefits so you don't have to make them yourself . Frosty The Lucky.
  11. What did you do in the shop today?

    That’s why I didn’t give it an edge!
  12. What did you do in the shop today?

    Just the thing for those academic meetings!
  13. What did you do in the shop today?

    Well, I was so taken by the original when I saw it in the Natural History Museum (especially with that unusual loop handle) that I wanted to make one like it. Maybe if they make him Department Chair.
  14. What did you do in the shop today?

    How about a Hunga Munga for your friend?
  15. Reducing size of coke

    The problem is that using coal fines is generally easy and common; but using coke fines is not easy as they don't weld together in use but instead want to blow around. (In fact if I had to use coke fines I would mix them with a majority of coal fines.) Many of the previous suggestions will generate a lot of coke fines. As the original request is for a method of dealing with coke and I would assume industrial coke and not breeze; perhaps we should focus on that. first?
  16. Welcome to the Williams Grove Blacksmith group at Mechanicsburg, PA
  17. Yesterday
  18. A collection of improvised anvils

    First project related to setting up my low-budget beginner forge - the anvil/stand. Being improvised, I figured this would be the right place to put this. The anvil was an ebay find - ~34 lb piece of forklift tine (2"x5"x12"). I made the stand out of a single 8ft board of 2"x10". I may add to the base to build up more stability, or at very least put it between a couple solid concrete blocks. I've got another board for making a jabod- so hopefully I'll be hitting hot steel next weekend. And, if I ever get a more traditional anvil, this could easily be put on it's flat side to be reborn as a striking anvil.
  19. Reducing size of coke

    Uh huh. Ran into this at Art on Fire this weekend. I brought my rivet forge and a couple buckets of locally collected coal. I like coal pretty fine and this ranged from the size of a paver to fine gravel. I spent too much time with a hammer on a piece of steel. So I was thinking and came up with this idea for small scale easy. A piece of channel iron say 5"-6" and a piece of plate cut to fit inside the flanges. Drill matching holes in the channel's flanges, weld a couple couplers or tap welded tags on the plate so there's a gap between the channel and plate at their closest and a spring somewhere to keep it open partway. Build a stand, legs or maybe bucket mount, drop coal in the open end between channel and plate and smack the hinged plate with a hammer, approximately sized crushed coal falls out the gap. Basically a manual hammer "Jaw Crusher." A hand tamper on a steel plate with whatever thickness crushed coal "kiss blocks" would work, you'd need to sweep the plate clear though or end up with powder. Same with a plate compactor but you can rent a jaw crusher and good ones are adjustable. Frosty The Lucky.
  20. What did you do in the shop today?

    Finished the African-inspired knife for my friend who just got tenure in the Africana Studies Department at the college where we both work. Also started another pair of split-rein tongs. Tried out an idea I’d been playing with, to cut the inside corners with a chisel ground from a section of bed rail. Works pretty well, with no sharp inside corners that might start a cold shut: I think that next time I’ll cut from both sides á la jlpservicesinc, to minimize the chiseled burr. I hadn’t heat treated the corner chisel (didn’t want to waste the time on a proof-of-concept), so it didn’t survive very well. Even so, I liked the results so much that I will definitely regrind and heat treat it.
  21. It followed me home

    Nice day of garage saling!! A bit much for the wood mallet maybe but great on the rest. Copper and brass hammers are also used where sparks might cause problems, say the gun powder works, fuel tank farm, etc. Frosty The Lucky.
  22. Greencast 94 refractory questions

    No problem, they'll bond fine. Make sure the existing floor is clean and free of loose debris and wet it before applying the Greencast. They are very similar products the main difference is in % of alumina refractory to calcium binder (cement) and aggregate. The Kastolite contains evacuated silica beads as part of the aggregate and this makes it a little more susceptible to hot borax based flux. In future when a refractory maker or furnace guy talks about "heat retention" here we talk about "heat sink" this is heat the refractory collects and holds onto. If you're running a high volume quick turn over furnace then a high heat retention furnace wall is a good thing. It may take more fuel to bring it up to temperature but it will stay hot longer when you open the doors to exchange hot for cold stock and close them up again, this makes the stock heat faster. Good for high production. This type furnace is usually left running 24/7 because of the fuel costs to heat it back up and the damage done by thermal cycling. However what we do in a small smithing shop is slower paced, maybe a few hours a day two days a week. Maybe. For us we want a forge that heats up quickly and doesn't suffer for heating up and cooling off quickly. For what we do as little thermal mass as we can get away with is the better deal. However insulating refractories like Kaowool are fragile especially at forging temperatures not to mention shedding sharp ceramic fibers that are a breathing hazard. So, they need some armor, first stiffen it up in general with a rigidizer then apply a layer of something concrete hard and relatively immune to hot caustics like welding fluxes. I have some greencast 94 and the stuff is bulletproof for the worst I could do to it. I switched to Kastolite 30 for a couple reasons: It's less expensive, here anyway, more significantly it's a reasonably good isulator and most significantly it's concrete hard above easy welding temps and laughs at the welding flux I use. "Petersons blue." The Peterson's is off the shelf at the local welding supply for about $1/3 one of the "Forge Welding Fluxes" sold by blacksmith suppliers. The stuff's anhydrous borax, boric acid and something to turn it blue. Peterson's makes a flux that also includes iron oxide like some of the "real" forge welding fluxes but I can't understand why we brush so HARD to remove scale (iron oxide) just to include it in the flux. There's lots I don't know so take that as my opinion for what it's worth. Anyway, I tested Kastolite 30 by putting a heaping Tbsp. on yellow hot Kastolite. Nothin, nada. Frosty The Lucky.
  23. It followed me home

    Today was a lot more. Atleast 9 lawnmowers. New stainless table, newish gas grill and 2 almost full propane tanks, 2 rototillers, a 10 speed, heavy steel doors, a disc harrow, 3 industrial jig saw machines, a stainless griddle, a stainless pizza oven, an ice maker, an aluminum ramp and so much more including the kitchen sinks.
  24. It followed me home

    I always wondered about turning old pools into basements/cellars
  25. Reducing size of coke

    My Dad made a tool to reduce coal down. 8" dia pipe with a grate welded inside and down about 12". The grate had holes torched into it the size of the coal wanted. Base welded onto the pipe and a window cut at the base on one side to allow the sized coal to be removed with a shovel. Put the coal in the pipe and use an old car axle with the studs facing downwards to bust it up until it was empty. Repeat as necessary.
  26. Dating and Arm & Hammer anvil

    Henry Ford; born July 30, 1863; so in 1935 he would be 72 years old and needing another anvil in his workshop?
  27. Reducing size of coke

    Efficiency usually costs money. If you are a handy type person you can reduce the costs. 1. Buy or rent a small rock crusher. 2. Find a cement mixer and some milling balls and make yourself a ball mill. 3. Find a jack hammer, weld a flat plate on the bottom of the bit. Put your coke in a drum and smash. 4. Use a hand tamper. For sizing. Find a screen with holes the size of what you want to run in your forge. Take a couple pieces of wood and make a shaker screen to sort the larger from your intended size. Unless you start buying the size fuel you want to burn, there will be extra work on your part.
  28. What did you do in the shop today?

    Great looking flag. How is it to be mounted? No picture but I had to replace the rubber tires on my wood cutting bandsaw pulley's, quite a job but with the help of Dr. Google got er done.
  1. Load more activity