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  2. Hand Crank Removal

    Slow your roll Keith. Taking a grinder to a piece of machinery you don't understand is NOT a recipe for success! The handle set screw snapped off, you can see the threads in the shaft end fitting. What probably happened is it might have gotten dropped on the screw and snapped it or someone without much mechanic's experience tried to take it apart and used a bigger wrench rather than let oil break the rust. You MIGHT need an easy out to remove the broken set screw but it won't work till the rust is busted. Here's your homework for tonight, Google out how to use an "Easy Out" Or "Screw Extractor" Please link any video you find here. We'll check to make sure it's good info and there are other guys here who can use it. Sound good? If you try forcing this apart you are going to find yourself buying another blower or having parts made to replace the broken parts. No joke! That you don't know what Thomas means by "outboard" end is a good example of you not knowing enough about mechanic work to try forcing things. The "Out" board end of anything attached to a machine is the end AWAY from, the machine in relation to the part of the machine you're discussing. For example the rear wheel is on the OUTboard end of the axle while the differential is on the INboard end. Or the head of a golf club is Outboard and the handle is In board. Make sense? I'm not dissing you, nobody is born knowing this stuff we ALL had to learn I'm offering you the benefits of my mistakes so you don't have to repeat them. Okay? If the Outboard end of the crank shaft that holds the handle is enlarged on the handle mount then the handle can NOT slip off, it's riveted. Is that more clear? For now, please stop trying to get it apart and do some prep work on it. Find a steel bucket it will fit into, pour in a couple cans of ATF (Automatic Transmission fluid) and a gallon can of Acetone or MEK, $15.xx in Home Depot Wasilla. Be careful, use neoprene gloves and keep either of these solvents OFF YOUR SKIN! Put a lid on it to prevent rapid evaporation and let the blower soak for a day to two. Kroil is good stuff but there could be 80 years of rust it has to soak through and soften. This is a case where quantity is the quality you want, LOTS of very penetrating oil with powerful rust inhibitors. ATF has the good rust inhibitors and protection, Acetone or MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) are the super penetrants. They penetrate so well they'll go right through your skin, won't even slow down and carry whatever is on your skin with it just like a transdermal nicotine patch you wear to "help" quit smoking. Neoprene gloves YES? For that matter WD-40 is a transdermal you should keep off you, not to mention gasoline! Whatever you use you have to give it time to work, there is NOTHING so stuck on your blower you need to start grinding parts off! Honest, I may tell the "occasional" tall tale but I don't lie. Re reading your original question I see there is play in the blower! Is the impeller fan moving at all? Just bumping a LITTLE bit back and forth when you turn the handle?! If so, GENTLY bump the crank back and forth and fire the garden hose in both the center (inlet) port and the outlet ports. Blowers are incredibly irresistibly attractive nest sites for everything from mud daubers to rodents, cats, weasels, extraterrestrials, etc. not to mention kids just can't resist dropping rocks and stuff in them to listen to the fan blades clank and grind. Most times they're just gunked up with: caked oil, dry mud, sticks, weeds, rocks, sand and critter poop. You can probably wash it out with a little patient crank rattling and a garden hose but a you can take a pressure washer to it without hurting it. Honest. Just don't get all excited as soon as it starts turning, keep washing and tip it at different angles so any rocks, nails, wire, etc that're caught in a nook or cranny can be helped out by Mr. Gravity and Mr. waterhose. WEAR PPE! You do NOT want to get smacked in the eye by a pebble driven by a 20,000 psi.+ pressure washer. Heck wear your rain gear. These things are NOT precision instruments even though they're precisely built, they're designed to be TOUGH and rebuilt with what a guy can come up with or make on the farm. Fixing this kind of stuff IS what made the blacksmith THE necessary craftsman in a town. You can lube one with anything oily or greasy, I use a couple DROPS of 3 in 1 and it hummmms but a couple drops of melted lard will do it fine. Remember do NOT get in a rush, try ONE thing at a time and see what happens. Keep us posted, we'll help. Another thought, if you can find a patent # or even a model # on it try googling the patent drawings. Those are a good deep look into machinery. Gotta go feed the dogs. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. Anvil I.D. For a rookie

    More pics and stop grinding please. Pics square to the sides and each way along the long axis, and close ups of the sides and bottom would help with ID. A wire wheel on an angle grinder will just clean rust and highlite maker's marks. An abrasive (grinding) wheel will remove identifying marks and degrade working surfaces.
  4. Fall meet 2017

    Jenifer, I had a headsmack moment when Lou told me about your quench/hammer scale popping trick. Duh. How many times have I seen that effect without planning it into my process? Too many. Thanks. Justin and Leigh Morell's shop is probably your local repository of NEB castings. If they don't have one on hand you could pick up the prize (If I heard correctly that you won) at the spring meet in NH or contact Bob Menard to work it out. Lou, anyone willing to be prodded by me into working with a stranger on a suprise project with loaner tools and a deadline in front of a crowd gets some serious respect. Most important part of the evening was having fun and learing something, and I hope you did. Hats off to you.
  5. I picked this one up at an auction. After cleaning it, the only markings I can find are the numbers cast in the base. Can anyone tell me who made it?
  6. Anyone here from Oklahoma?

    Im purty close but I reside in the great state of Texas! But right across the border in the texoma area.
  7. Today
  8. This looks like an interesting repair any more pics and info on the progress Cheers Beaver
  9. I will begin building my proper forge this weekend.

    Definetly workimg and way better than the old one
  10. Hi there obert I just re read my post and there was a typo where i said draw off rale I ment to say draw off rate meaning the amount of gas that can drawn off from the gas bottle at a constant rate without loosing pressure, You can put the bottles in a big tube of warm water to stop them freezing but I have seen on good old youtube people making a temporary coke or coal forge which would probably be the most effective way of making enough heat for what you want and probably the cheapest too. PS that bottom flame looks like it has no where enough air, have a look at the burners section there is heaps of good stuff PSS I think the water fall if it is as you describe would be worth a go Cheers Beaver
  11. Motorcycle chain holddown

    Okay, made some proper handles: Each handle is bent from 17" of 1/4" x 3/4" flat bar. The handles attach to the clapper stems with heavy wire "staples". The loop of the staple goes through the chain in the back. The chains can be crossed over to give extra holding power in a smaller spot. No photo, but the handles and weights go all the way under the stand when not in use.
  12. Anyone here from Oklahoma?

    Where about? I am out of Bradly. I know we have a new member out of Blanchard. Their is also the Saltfork Craftsmen. They are the state artistic blacksmith association. This wouldn't be the nice young man I met in sulphur?
  13. Civil War era blacksmith wagon

    I had faith in your authenticity, David. I was just surprised that the US army had started painting equipment OD green that early. Especially as they made the troops stand out, I guess we know their priorities. I have seen pictures of Mexican/American war smiths using a nail keg or tunne for an anvil stand. I assume the filled it with sand.
  14. Anyone here from Oklahoma?

    There are quite a few members who live in Oklahoma and just across the border in Arkansas.
  15. Hand Crank Removal

    Thomas, by outboard do you mean then end of the shaft that the blower fans are connected to? I don't know if the shaft rides on a bearing or what but there's no play on the fan end of the shaft. turns smooth. somewhere around the gears there is a bit of play in what I suspect is and old copper bearing but hard telling not knowing isn't it? Got to get in there. Irondragon, thanks for confirming that it should back straight off the shaft, i don't want to break this thing in the process of trying to fix it. I am dropping penetrating fluid down the handle mount set screw hole a few times a day but so far it's glued on there. Randell, I found Joe and will check it out as time permits. Thanks. I got looking at this again tonight and it seems there may have once been a set screw to secure the handle to the shaft (see picture). You can see a number of places on the handle arm where a set screw once pinched. Maybe the set screw threads stripped and they used a rivet to secure it. In the process the end of the shaft was mushroomed a bit and now the handle mount won't budge. You can see a bit of mushrooming in the first picture. I'm going to try grinding the shaft flush to the handle mount and then see if it'll come. Might have to break the bond with heat as well. We will see.
  16. Greetings Marcus, Sorry tried to edit... You could make a small bending fixture from 1/4 X1 welded to a plate . Just cut your stock to length and use a oxy ace torch at the bends holding the stock with vice grips against the form.. I would make the start finish point of the round stock at the 1/4 weld radius mark on your scetch.. This would allow you to just tack weld the bar. The finish plate welded in would bond the parts for strength.. I hope this helps.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim
  17. Anyone here from Oklahoma?

    Tristan: If you'll put your general location in your profile you might be surprised how many of the gang live within visiting distance. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. Yesterday
  19. What Did You do in the Shop Today?

    You're running too hot Randell, that's the look of burned steel. Put your steel higher in the fire give it and Less air. Frosty The Lucky.
  20. Before I opened your post I read the first sentence on the "Unread" page and my first thought was, The first sentence is only true if you don't consider thinking doing anything." Good thing I usually read before replying eh? A while back I wrote about rehearsing moves, tool placement, etc. without lighting the fire at all. So yeah, effectiveness isn't measured on the clock it's measured by results. Frosty The Lucky.
  21. Well, is anybody going.....? Guess I'll find out tomorrow. See ya there Life is Good Dave
  22. Frosty, this brings to mind that you don't necessarily have to actually do anything. If you have very little time then perhaps it could be used to mentally work through the sequence, tong useage, handling and so forth to quickly make optimum use of the fire once you make it. If you have a good hot fire and a hunk of hot metal but don't really have a plan of what you are going to do with it then not much happens, it get's cold, and has to be heated up again. And if still no plan then same result. For me if I don't have a perfect plan then the perfect time to focus on it is while building the fire. I actually find that very therapeutic. Make the fire. Zone out on the plan. Prep the tools. Mentally walk through the steps. No big rush but when it's time be ready. Execute...
  23. What Did You do in the Shop Today?

    So i didn't forge tonight but built myself a work bench. Out of some pallet wood i got from a laser cutting client we have.
  24. Anyone here from Oklahoma?

    Does any body on here live in Oklahoma
  25. New hammer

    Made this 1 1/2 lb hammer for my daughter she is a bit of a tom boy and a few bigger ones all made on my tire hammer she works well
  26. My Seax attempt

    The scales taper forward to cover the end of the copper, I nipped it too short. Shame the cedar grain doesn't show up in the pictures, it's actually really pretty. As for hacking... It's great Balance is about two fingers in front of the handle and it moves nicely for chopping on things. I'm debating giving it away or testing it to failure, as it's my first forged blade and I kinda want to see if I've made something reliable.
  27. If you need to temper some steel butt dont have an oven, fear not. Stick it into you car's exhaust pipe and rev the engine, although revving above 6000 rpm will induce too much flexibility. Tested on 4 cylinder 1.400 cc Honda.
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