Mr_Gixxer

Finally got around to finishing the base for this Fisher 40.

After cleaning it up and further inspection, I think the date says 1913 on this one. What are your thoughts on the swage block identification? It's not my intention to sidetrack this thread in the anvils forum section but didn't see much talk about fisher swages outside of here. (Maybe worth a separate thread?) Also, thank you for all your contributions here, I really enjoyed reading about your Fishers and seeing the examples you've posted. We've been looking for somewhere new to buy Christmas trees so maybe I can convince the missus to make the 4 hour trip next December, knock out 2 birds with one stone and see the museum too haha!

Time to revive this thread. I've read through the entire thing and would like to add my new addition to the shop since last night. If I'm reading the date correctly, this is a 1918 #40 Fisher anvil. Been waiting to bring this one home for a while now, it's been on my radar since last spring. First thing I noticed was that the advertisements didn't lie, this thing is QUIET. I'm not a stickler on super specific percentages of rebound but a small hammer bounces along the entire thing nicely, no better or worse than any of the other brands or styles I have. This is my second anvil of this size but first Fisher. Can't wait to mount her up and put it back in service! I feel like I should add this here too since it was brought up here very briefly and I can't find much discussion about these. This swage block has been in the shop for a year and didn't know what it was until now. If I'm not mistaken this is a Fisher too, I think it scaled in at around 150lbs. Doesn't seem like many of these out there and was SUPER excited just to see a swage block like this out in the wild. You just don't find many of them pop up around here.

I've tried making rotors work before, welds just pop right off in my experience. They are very enticing to use for stuff around the shop though, I get it. Bolting to these might be a better alternative, if you still can run a couple holes through the base plate and tighten it down. Just hate to see a running forge fall over when you turn your back. I like the addition of the shelf, I might try that to one of my forges. Can't have too many "catch alls" for tools around the shop after all. Happy smithing!

I'd cut that cast brake rotor off before it breaks off and make a different base.

Missed this last year, I'll be there in May. Been wanting to try this for a few years. The winter challenges are under way already so I've got some work to do. I don't meet many other blacksmiths out in the wild so it'll be a treat to see what others are doing.

Forget the anvil, did you see that leg vice off the right side laying down?!

Looks like everything was pretty well covered here and you've made a decision. I will agree and cast my vote for GMAW>FCAW for all the reasons listed above. I'll also be that annoying new guy know-it-all grammar nazi and note that bottles hold water, tanks have tracks and cylinders hold compressed gasses.

I've lurked here for a few years, felt it was time to participate. A little about myself... I'm a trade school taught and certified welder of 20 years. Worked in various shops fabricating just about everything from ornamental ironwork to structural steel from blueprints. Currently I'm operating a small blacksmithing business in Central Pennsylvania of 3 years and counting making ornamental ironwork, tools and equipment and I travel to shows doing demonstrations through the warmer months. This was my true calling, forging steel and iron. 2023 is already shaping up to be an even better year than the last 3 and can't wait to show y'all what I'm working on!