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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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Frosty: Ok, I'll see if I can find some. Would probably be easier to mig up something than use the 6" tee. I checked with a local hardware, they called their distributor and was told it would be special order to get one. I found one online for $29 but the shipping would cost several $ more. I'll check with the exhaust shop up the street from me. I already have some 3" for the air inlet. Now my wheels are turning faster. Thanks.

Simmonds: I'll check and get back with ya on the rpm and h.p. of the motor.

-aaron c. aka "the scrounger"....lol

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600 USD for this pile ...quite a nice find :) don;t u think so ? The spot welder looks like it took a beat but except the bendet frame i hope it works ok :)
The reductor is 40/1
The punch press is 10 Tone
The grinder on the post has 1850RPM
And a bench drill ... to bad that the only way you can adjust speeds is by changing it's fuleeys

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Keykeeper,

* Cut a half circle on the edge of a piece of rectangular metal, then do it again on the opposite edge. Now roll the metal into a circle so the two half circles make a hole for you to insert your air tube.

* Piece of 6 inch pipe and cut a hole in it for the air tube.

Your a blacksmith, YOU can make the things you need. And no one said the thing had to be round either, because square, rectangular, etc will work just as well. Pyramid shaped with a flat top connecting to the fire pot would be actually best as the ash would have no place to catch and clog things up.

If this forge going to replace your *potty chair forge* ?

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Thanks BT! I had thought about using the crimp coupling idean but I will do it right and go inside and add new wire. You are totally correct about the cracking insulation on this old wire. I have 10 OLD antique oscilating fans with this type of wiring just waiting for me to repair. 2 of the have the brass blades. I can get the cloth wrapped wire but they are REAL proud of the stuff! :(

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Keykeeper, * Piece of 6 inch pipe and cut a hole in it for the air tube.?


*6 inch pipe seems to be the best, cost effective, ease of fabrication, solution, at this time.

No one said it had to be round, but the area where the original tuyere fit on is round, with a slight depression. I want to make it fit as tight as possible, to avoid losing air. Pyramid would look good, and work, I'm just not inclined to go that far in the build, if 6" pipe will work. I plan on making a plate/counterweight ash dump so nothing can catch up when dumped. Besides, I have some really clean-burning coal.;)

Yeah, it'll replace the potty chair forge. Unfortunately, the welds broke holding the air tube to the brake rotor. Took a little rotor with it, too. I think I may have gotten them a little TOO hot. He He.
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Attached is the exhaust pipe Tuyere on my coal forge. It isn't a very good picture of it but there wasn't a good angle. Maybe when I get it into the new shop.

I just thought to add the Sketchup component I drew of the exhaust pipe tuyere and flapper cap ash dump.

Frosty

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Edited by Frosty
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I hear ya, Frosty. Thanks, that's pretty much what I had "drawn" on the sketch pad in the cloudy recesses of my mind. You Da' Man!

On another note, I examined the No. 50 blower about 30 minutes ago, attached a cord, and it hums right along. Man, I love blacksmithing and scroungin'.

-aaron c.

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These followed me home today, I was going by the junk man's place and he flagged me down, told me if I didn't want the little wood lathe he was gonna junk it. Its small and cheap but has a self contained motor and variable speed, A widow woman wanted her garage cleaned out, I don't think its ever been used.

The motor is a 1/4 hp Monkey Wards repulsion induction motor and runs good.

I couldn't refuse them.

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Here's something that followed me home.....about 15 years ago!
I was cleaning up the back of the shop for the first time in years, and happened to find this little squirrel cage blower.........I,d forgotten about having it.

Now I can't wait to hook it up and try it out!

Kinda like gettin' something new, and not having to pay for it:),

or I got myself a present 15 years ago and I,m just gettin' around to opening it,,,,,,,:D

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this table didnt follow me home, it just showed up one morning
oh i knew it was coming, i just didnt expect it this soon, what a surprise, was woken up early a dew days ago to a loud crashing sound, so's i commenced to looking out all the windows, when i get to the front window theres my friend rolling the table up my driveway

about the table, it is just a few inches shy of being 8 feet long by 4 feet wide, the table top is 1/4 inch thick, it has some very nice wheels to move it around

its just a bit to big for my shop, im thinking maybe to shorten it to about 5 - 6 feet long, unless i can better organize my shop, then ill leave it alone

or maybe cut it in half, make it so's it can be put back together rather easy for those big jobs that i know will happen as soon as i cut down
be like dadgum i wish id'a left this thing alone

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Ron

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Jayco, That looks like it would make a good small forge blower.


Bentiron, that's just what I was thinking........I puts out a goodly amount of air........made a round sheetmetal air gate to cover the air intake today.......I think I am 'good to go!:)
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Frosty, you're right.......it would work with the woodstove!
The last time I 'priced' a direct replacement for the fan assembly that mounts on the back of my King wood heater........the price was nearly $100!

Needless to say, we placed a 'dollar store' box fan behind the stove that winter........worked well enough.

I got the little fan in the pic for $3 at the flea market
Even though I'd forgotten about buying the fan at all........when it comes to money, I remember!:)

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several 4 ft sq tables with 2 ft of space between them to work between makes an ideal set up, not to big to reach the center of, not to big to spend all your time walking around and if they are set so the tables tops are all level with one another, makes for a long table for those big projects.

I would remove the bottom tilted trays, run angle iron mid way between bottom and top of your table, then turn trays upside down on the angle iron frame for storage on your table. lips catch dirt, dust and grinding swarf and is hard to clean out.

you might consider drilling 3/8 holes every 6 inches on center both ways in the top to bolt things too for jigs and such. also some narrow flat bar stock on edge tacked under the top will stiffen the top greatly so heat and pounding don't make the top wavy. too much welding on the stiffeners will warp the top too.


just my penny's worth.

Edited by irnsrgn
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thanks for the ideas irnsrgn

i really like the holes in the table top, think that may be the 1st thing i do to it, along with a few nuts on the bottom side

i had planned on doing something to the bottom, those shelves are full of sand, stones, mud and a bunch of other unwanted stuff

still undecided about cutting it in half


Ron

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Poor man's Mag drill for drilling holes in a plate easily = one of those cheap $39 bench drill presses with the top lowered and reversed to the base, start at the edge and use vice grips to hold the DP in place, after the first couple of holes you can use the previous drilled holes to hold it down, no straining with a hand drill. Use a longer bolt than needed, cut the head off and drill a hole thru it to slip a pin in and out to keep it from pulling thru when tightening the top nut, and no need to remove the nut each time.

Edited by irnsrgn
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