Kelly R Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 If I’ve posted in the incorrect location please let me know where to post. I’m still a newbie with the forging and blacksmithing. I currently have a cheap 100lbs anvil but have just put an order in for a new 155lbs hardened 4140 which is 26” long with a base that is 10x10”. I do have about 20 48” oak 4x4 which I would like to build the base for the anvil. My question is. Is there a standard for dimensions for how far the base should extend from the base? How far out to go towards the horn or the back. I know I don’t want it too deep where I’m having to be reaching over to the anvil. Also, do you guys typically work on both sides of the anvil or is it typical to usually work from just one side? looking for suggestions, ideas or role of thumbs which pertain to this topic? The two images are screen shots off the web. The first I would think would be unstable. The second is more of what I want to do with storage around for tongs, hammers…….etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 I would build the second one also. It's nice to have a little room around the base of the anvil to set tools you are using there, along with being more stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 One recommendation, try not to have you stand’s surface extend past the hardy or prichnell(sp?) hole. It’s nice to have clearance to use long drifts, or even be able to sit a bucket of water on the floor to cool MILD steel drifts automatically as the drop through. Keep it fun, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 It sort of depends on the type of work you plan to do and how the stand will sit on the floor. If the stand will be set 5' into the ground, then not much excess is needed. If the stand is bolted securely to the floor, likewise. If you just set it on the floor and use the anvil for light forging likewise. If you will be bending 1.5" torsion bars over it and have it setting on the floor---well then a massive stand will help---a bit... My teaching stands are fairly small as we use 1/4" sq stock for the students first projects. One heavy work anvil in my shop is mounted to a baulk that is 6' long horizontally and just sits on the floor. For constructed stands I like to make the outer edges front and back taller to "trap" the anvil between them. They don't need to be full dimensional lumber sized, an inch lip seems to work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly R Posted August 26, 2022 Author Share Posted August 26, 2022 (edited) Definitely not putting it into the ground. But I will be installing anchor’s into the concrete so I can bolt it down but if I need to move it I can just retract the bolts. I do like the idea of sorting insetting the anvil a bit into the base. Tanks for your input! Edited August 27, 2022 by Mod30 Excessive quoting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 Tripods work well for that. I like to build them with a base 2/3 of the big for the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly R Posted August 27, 2022 Author Share Posted August 27, 2022 (edited) I built a tripod for the anvil I have now. Even filled the legs with compacted sand to quiet the sound. My only problem is it’s a pain to move. Looking to build a block and I corporate wheels on it or leave a slit on one side to use a dolly if needed to move it. Edited August 27, 2022 by Mod30 Excessive quoting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 Below is the tripod stand under my 200lb. Trenton, the anvil sits in a rim of 2" x 2"angle iron flange up. The tong and hammer racks wedge between the rim and the anvil locking it in. I load anvil wedged in the stand in the pickup with my engine hoist as a unit. The large feet let me move it with a hand truck though it's not as easy as the old wood block stand. The flange of angle iron the anvil rests on serves as a place to put hand tools and such, where the hot hardy is in the pics. This stand damps the anvil very well without sand in the legs or other noise dampening devises, wrapped chain, magnets, felt bedding, calking, etc. The two steel objects have different resonant frequencies so sound from the anvil causes a dissonance with the stand and is damped. As long as you don't strike a blow on the bare heal or horn this dangerously loud anvil is comfortable to use in ear plugs. My Soderfors is also on a steel tripod just like this one and went from loud enough to make your ears ring through muffs and plugs to just plugs only quiet. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHDforge Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 I also decided to make a tripod type stand for my latest 200lb PW anvil acquisition. Used an angle iron fabricated pan to contain anvil on top of a tubular assembly. The tubes can receive 2” square tubing attachments from any side. I have to give credit to Jennifer for the idea of including receivers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 Dr. Forge: If you don't mind saying, how much did you have to pay for your PW? It is very similar to mine and probably in a bit better condition since on mine the logo and name has been obscured by chisel and punch marks. I paid $250 for mine in the early '90s. Thx, GNM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHDforge Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 I hate to admit it, but I paid $900 for it last year. It has been repaired, edges have been welded. I do not know for sure if it was done correctly. Rebound was great in all areas on the face. Edges are still rather square. I have yet to round them. Built the stand this year, so first year in use. I learned on another anvil, so I am more experienced now. So far it is holding up fine. I took a chance on it and the seller was up front about not knowing if the repair was done correctly. Time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 The square tubing receivers are a good idea, if I make another stand I'll include them. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHDforge Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 A local steel supplier started putting out cut stock remnants or “drops” on racks outside his warehouse. All kinds of sized stock. I found some 2 1/2 square tubing that was perfect to receive 2 square. The legs are 3 1/2 square tube. Price for drops is by the lb and decreases as you buy more. I go steel shopping often. Only problem is inventory changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 That's how it is with steel suppliers and most fab shops here. Getting to know the yard guys is the key to "specials." A box of doughnuts and forged bottle openers is just good PR. don't forget the head receptionist! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 (edited) On 8/25/2022 at 10:07 PM, Kelly R said: do you guys typically work on both sides of the anvil or is it typical to usually work from just one side? Yes, or at least i do. Cant speak for everyone just myself. That is mostly becuase one side of my anvil has much softer* edges than the other though. It is your anvil, your tool. Use it however you wish. Use the sides, feet, even the bottom if you so desire. For example look at that nice big curve between the feet, that is a ready made swage. There is no law saying that an anvil must be set on its base and remain that way. You can flip it on the heel and use the horn like a cone mandrel if you want. Although flipping around 150# of iron can get tiresome, but that is what minions are for. However most work will be done on one side and that is just becuase you do no want to be walking around the anvil from the forge. Especially if you are trying to get a weld set. You will want to make that pivot from forge to anvil as quick as possible. *After re-reading this i must clarify, not soft like cotton but soft as in more radius on the edge. Edited August 27, 2022 by BillyBones clarification Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 Good clarification Billy but "softening" the edges is a common term for breaking, chamfering or rounding edges and corners. I don't have anything to your comments about using the ENTIRE anvil other than to say, Well said. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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