Goods, that's is a great twist on the handle.   Would you have time to explain how you pulled that off?

Chad, sketches are the easiest way for me to explain any forging and the process I start with before trying something new to me. Hopefully my sketches and writing make sense:

(The fullering is done on both corners edges at the same time. Like using a spring fuller, but I used top and bottom 1” diameter fullering dies in my power hammer.) 

I took several heats to twist, then another heat to straighten. My first type ended up on the scrap pile after try to even out a uneven twist.

Keep it fun,

David

That's the kind of operation that will reward careful shaping of the metal before attempting the twist, since the handle will twist more where it's thinnest and less where it's thickest.

I use "kiss blocks" to make a "perfectly" uniform section. Twists require expertise and practice.

You done good Dave, keep it up.

Frosty The Lucky.

Yes, I was using a 3/8” kiss block with the power hammer. I believe my issue the first go around was having a good even heat. If I had fired up the gas forge it may have gone easier. (Don’t really like using that gas forge, and should spend some time improving it. I’d just rather be forgiving though…)

Keep it fun,

David

AH, so your gas forge betrayed you in some way in the past and you haven't forgiven it yet?

Forgiveness is as much for ourselves as the forgiven. It's the forget part that strikes me as particularly stupid.

Improving is almost always good though. Want help?

Frosty The Lucky.

I guess that was a gift just for you! Predictive text arrg…

My gas forge really needs re-lined and properly tuned. I understand the process and keep up with all of banter between you and Mikey… I even have some of the proper materials on hand.

 

Keep it fun,

David

Arrrg is right! I have to double and triple check to make sure "autocorrect" hasn't decided I haven't used the right word. I don't even know what predictive text is but can guess. AI must stand for automatic Idiocy. I only use my Iphone for a couple things, talk to people and take pics. Heck, I can't even figure out how to return a text from the doctor, I call them back and hope the AI hasn't already canceled my appointment. If I'm online I'm using my laptop. 

Still, your AIpo did put a grin on my face while I had a little fun with it so . . . Thank you. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Update on the big table project. 

We went to my mother in law's house last weekend and removed the existing rotted top and get final measurements for the mounting plates ... only to find that the supports are rotted as well! So now I'm also making a base.

And the deadline is still mid-late June because she's hosting a big family cookout on July 4th. I'll never say as much to my wife nor her mother, but this project has been so insanely stressful due to the required deadline and other prior commitments that I need to be preparing for but instead I'm spending every spare moment on this project. 

Anyway, I decided to go with 2" 14ga square tubing legs rather than something fancier that would tie the design in - for the sake of expediency and since I had enough of that left over.

I might be going overboard but these tops are HEAVY and I want to be sure it's safely supported. So 6 legs total: one on each corner and one on each side where the frames meet in the center. Since the sides will have more than 4 feet between vertical supports, I'm adding a 1x2 14ga tube (with the 2" orientation facing out) as additional support between the outside and center legs. It will need to be mounted directly under the table frame so that the arms on the chairs still have clearance to be pushed under.

All legs and supports will be welded to mounting plates and will have 2 gussets each. Then mounted using 1/4" bolts into rivnuts.

This pic was taken when I had the center legs moved inward 12" before I realized I needed them in line with the corner legs for the supports to connect to.

So far, I have 4 legs with caps welded to one end and pre drilled mounting plates welded to the other end. I also have that done on the 2 center legs but misplaced the holes so they need to be redrilled. Tonight, I cut the gusset triangles and grinded in a bevel and shaped to fit around the inside corner weld. Will likely need to do more shaping dependant on the leg but this gets it close. 

So I'm getting a LOT of fabrication practice and very LITTLE hammer time. 

And here's a video of my welding. Getting better. Still have some turds but overall, not bad, lol

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/P6zYSdulI0g

Frosty is right. You can build that as true and square as possible but if the surface you sit it on is not flat and level it wont matter. 

I built a coffee table for a friend a few years back and found that out. Fortunately the legs were scrolled so i just took the top off and whacked it with a hammer and it sat flat. 

You could, if needed,  just put a couple match books under the offending leg. 

6 hours ago, Frosty said:

Are you going to put leveling pads on the legs

Yup! They are on order and should arrive next week. Just forgot to mention it, lol

 

Dabbsterinn, that is amazing.

MOD NOTE: Dabbsterinn's comment about his double-lung bellows project has been moved to ITS OWN THREAD.

Also:

12 hours ago, BillyBones said:

Frosty is right.

BillyBones is referring to this comment, which was deleted by mistake. Sorry, Frosty.

Quote

Are you going to put leveling pads on the legs? Have you checked the floor to make sure it's a true plane? A long table, especially one with 6 legs needs to be able to adjust the leg length so it rests evenly on the floor. Level is less important within reason but if even one leg is resting on a slightly higher spot on the floor it's going to want to rock.

You can buy leg adjusters with felt pads so they don't mar a hardwood floor.

Looking good Shaina, it's going to be a family legacy.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Got this book and a new dial indicator. The book reads like talking to Mark Asprey. Written in England i think 1953. So far looks quite informative. It shows how to do the elements then put those skills to use and build a gate. One thing it mentioned i had never heard of nor seen used was a piece of pipe  fit over the bar when twisting to keep the bar straight. 

That pipe trick is a pretty good idea, especially for those long bars!

Well O K A Y mod 34, let me know if we ever meet up, you owe me a cup of coffee. 

I do have another thought I should've thought of when I posted about the leg adjusters. They make teflon skid pads to protect floors and make it easier to move furniture. Just be sure to clean the floor before sliding furniture on teflon pads or heck anything it CAN grind dirt in.

Frosty The Lucky.

My wife has a series of small talavera tile tables she wants to make for the porch.  That is, she wants to tile the table tops, and wants me to make the bases to hold the table tops.  I started by making a CAD drawing that can be scaled to any size table top, and began with the smallest of the tables she has in mind.

 

Here's the inspiration (a table she bought some time ago), the design, and the forged pieces that I intend to start final fitting and assembly on in my next day in the shop.  Just finished the legs and the last of the tenons for the cross pieces today.

 

 

That looks like it's gonna turn out nicely Tommy.

 

I like it Tommy, a LOT. Remember to notch the mortises slightly so the join can't turn. It doesn't take much, just a small chisel cut on the outside of the mortice so when you pein the tenon it expands to fill the notch and can't pivot in the mortice without breaking the tenon.

There appears to be about 2x the distance from the top of the table to the spreader as to the ground, a 2:1 leverage advantage. With so many of the Mortice and Tenon (M&T) joints in the spreader pivoting in the same plane the table CAN wobble in either of two directions. Bets are though it'll pivot on the single center bar.

It doesn't take a lot of force to loosen a M&T joint with a round tenon, prolonged bumps will do it, say setting mugs of coffee/tea on it. It may take years but furniture made by a blacksmith should last generations, No?

Frosty The Lucky.

I will do a small chisel cut to keep the tenons from turning.  Thank you for reminding me of that, though it had occurred to me before.

I agree that that central bar will be the most likely to loosen up.

You're welcome, it's my pleasure.

I've forgotten the obvious so many times that finally, after an embarrassing number years, got over being angry when folks reminding me of things I already know.

I don't spend much if any time at the anvil anymore and in fact my shop is for sale but hanging out on IFI and occasionally saving someone time, later issues, . . .what ever lets me keep my hand in the craft.

So I live vicariously through the IFI gang. I'm selfish like that.

Frosty The Lucky.

Broke out the new book yesterday. Made a couple tools for leaf making and made my first leaf. Then got it welded onto a bar and managed to only burn the edge a little. The far left bottom tool is for crimping the waves, the big "Y" tool is for making the center vein, small hammer is for hammering obviously, and a bending fork for bending. The fork is just becuase i needed one a bit bigger than the one i normally use. 

Spent yesterday at a local historical museum remaking hardware for them in the coal forge.   It was their opening day and they fell like a blacksmith on site helps bring people in.   Kept it simple for the most part just working on requests, door stops, drive hooks to replace modern nails that have items handing from them in the cabins.  Also forgot my coal rake again so forged another one from a spare piece of 1/4 inch square stock that was laying in the back of the car.   Over all, it was a fun day.   I'll be back there in July for their big event and I'll be continuing making replacement hardware.

Looks pretty good Billy though welding stock of such dissimilar sizes is really tough. Forge brazing has been around as long as humans have hammered hot metal. Shine up the inside of the leaf and outside of the bar, sprinkle with a little copper wire or brass shavings and gradually bring up to heat. Watch for the braze to flow and it's done. Overheating brass especially can cause it to burn, blue green flame and white lacy smoke. The smoke is the zinc oxide from the burn. 

I loved doing demos at the fair, local museum, etc. Remember, keep notes so you'll know what to make in advance. My experience is that items small enough to fit in a purse and around $20 flew off the table. I'm sure $20 is way low priced anymore but charging a single bill made it easier for people. You want to make it EASY for people to buy your products, easy to carry and not requiring anybody to count out money. Seams kind of silly but it made a big difference.

Lastly do NOT charge too little! One of my best sellers were coat hooks with a leaf finial and twisted shank. My associate at the time insisted $10 ea. was too much MY hooks were only worth $4 ea. and said so loudly. He left for lunch and I flipped the price card over and wrote Leaf hooks, $19.95 ea. sets of four $ 74.95.

When he got back my table was clear and a couple people were bidding on the last finished hook. For the next two days I had spectators waiting for their hook(s) and bidding wars weren't uncommon.

If you think about it, you can buy a coat hook anywhere for a couple bucks. What the customer is buying when you hand make one is bragging rights. They get to tell people how much they had to spend to have a real blacksmith custom make their hook(s).

Frosty The Lucky.

I made a set of fullers for my DKE12 hydraulic forge press.  This is just after I did a PWHT with my little Vevor kiln.  I love this thing.  It was only $323 delivered.  Nice thing to have in the shop, IMHO.

Frosty, my first thought was to braze but i am trying to follow a book that is kind of a course and it said weld. I actually love forge brazing. Something kind of magical when the metal flows and is sucked into the joint. I usually just use small brazing rod. Cut a little piece off and lay it on the joint, then in the fire and slowly bring it all to temp. Oh, yeah i do pre heat some so the flux on the rod kind of "glues" it in place so it dont fall off on the way to the fire. 

A trans shop i worked in i once took a 14mm wrench and cut the end off of. Then i brazed the 2 pieces back together with an oxy/acetylene  torch. That was just to prove to one of my coworkers that a braze is almost as strong as a weld.