JHCC,   that design has also been rolling around in my head. I was concerned that when I were to beat on my work that the anvil would shift. Didnt know if the #200 would stay put.

Anvil should be here in a few days. Dont want to drill the belly....Dont want to cover the feet... 9h what a whirl what a whirl..  lol

Here are some photos of how I mounted my anvil. On my stand, the shaped blocks are on the outside; on yours, you can put them on the inside. Otherwise, the same principle applies.

Just make sure you clean the top of the stand and the underside of the feet before you put down the silicone. I didn't, and the thin layer of dirt and grease eventually caused the caulk to separate from the anvil. I cleaned them well the next time, and have had no further issues.

I like the idea of hidden bolts from the underside---makes it harder to walk off too!

As for moving in use.  My 469# Fisher was creeping when we did some heavy sledge work on it.  So I fenced in in with a handful of fence staples sticking up about 3/8".

Let the mount begin!

Dad always said "work smarter...not harder "

WHEW!!!!!  That's a beast, for sure . 

A pretty one at that. I was a bit Leary about buying an anvil from overseas. I couldn't see it up close, couldn't check for rebound, ect, ect.. but all in all I am pleased. The rebound in the center is not that good... but I have a power hammer being delivered in a couple of months, so I can live with it. The rebound on the edges and on the horns is about 80% that is acceptable in my book

I know some will say "you shouldn't have done that.  But I feel I have not devalued or jeopardized the integrity of the anvil in any way. And the bottom line is... it is mine.  This method of tie down/cinch down will prevent theft, and will not impede the look of the sexy pig feet.

Edited February 29, 20206 yr by Mod30
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Hmmm, I was thinking you were going to drill and tap a couple of the feet for a hidden tie down. That should sure do the job though. 

She's a beauty. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Didnt really think about using the feet that way... I am confident this will do the trick. Flatten the feet to set on the base plate was a chore. Got them all down and solid.  Will place some silicon between the feet and the base platelets before she gets her final mount.

Edited February 29, 20206 yr by Mod30
remove excessive quote

Oh I think it'll work fine the way you've done it, it just didn't occur to me. Just don't get carried away trying to get the feet perfect, the silicone and snugging the bolts down will keep her steady just fine.

Of course telling you not to get carried away is kind of silly isn't it? That has to be one of the most carried away anvil stand builds I've ever seen. It's a thing of beauty. My beloved Soderfors lives on a steel tripod, please don't tell her about Ms Piggy's stand! 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Frosty,

I will be sure to delete your Soderfors off my mailing list!

Some say I 9ver do things at times, but the small details, and the commitment to do the best of your ability speaks volumes about ones craftsmanship. 

Thank you for the kind words. They very much appreciated coming from an experienced craftsman as yourself.

You do know I'm not being critical yes? Better than necessary is always better than not good enough. Doing your best honors all crafts.

I'm not near the blacksmith most folk think, I'm a hobbiest who noodled around the craft for a long time and have lost a lot of my edge since the accident. I remember more than I can do well. Hanging with the gang keeps me sane and being of occasional help sort of passes all the good done for me along.  It's the least I can do.

Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty, I have read enough of your replies to know if I were in the wrong... you would not sugar coat it and head me in the right direction. 

Ease up will ya Peppie? I'm going to start blushing soon. True, I'll let you know next time I think you screw up. How about we just kick back and swap some friendly insults? Okay?

Frosty The Lucky.

How about if I just post a couple pictures of a mounted Pig? On the best looking anvil stand this side of the Rocky Mountains.  (According to Frosty).

Good Morning Peppie,

I don't know if it is the pictures or a poor reflection. It looks like to should spend some time cleaning up the edges of the top face and square horn. Ideally it should be a radiused edge, not a tight corner. There is no fixed radius, sometimes you want to move around the Anvil to utilize a different radius. Square edges will make marks in your work, that can turn to cracks. Radius edges won't make the sharp transition, it will make it so you can clean up your Hammer marks, without fear of cracking (cold shut).

Miss Piggy would like to go to work. Work the top face easy, they generally will work-harden with time. Hammer dings generally can be worked out with a slightly radius punch and a hammer.

Enjoy the journey. If some of your tables are in the way, make them so they can be lifted off to be out of the way.

Neil

Swedefiddle,  I have yet taken the time to dress any of the edges. Only thing I did was to wire wheel it. Followed by hand rubbing it with 400 grit paper. Then I coated it with some beeswax. Finished with a coat of BLO. The forge is covered but not inclosed. A bit of rust prevention.

The trays and the vise mount are easily removed. The trays just lift out. They also swivel independently from each other. They can be swiveled completely out of the way when working my prominent side.

TY form the 8nfo on working out the dings on the face.

Thought it be best I had a quick and easy hold. 1/2" non threaded bar clamp end. A length of 1/2" threaded pipe, 2 ,  1/2" nuts. 10 minutes to weld the nuts to the base plate. 1 under the hardie hole, and one under the Pritchard hole. Booooooom!

Peppie, this project is coming along really nice...who knows in the future if I am going to be accused of piracy for copying your ideas...

Caotropheus,

TY, copy all you like. Imitation is the highest form of flattery! 

I just cant leave well enough alone! I know I will be twisting Damascus billets in the future. So I took the time and effort to build a jig, and a couple of twisting handle/wrenches. The jig is adjustable along the center. It is also easy to remove, and mount to the stand. I can also use it mounted to a bench. The bar in the jig is 3/4" square stock. It was a breeze to twist. The plate in the "tower " slides left to right to accommodate different sizes of square stock. 1/2",5/8",3/4" and 1".

WHEW!  Fantastic.