Chris C Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Yup, guys, I'm familiar with "cheater lenses"................only focusing isn't my problem............it's seeing! I wear tri-focals under the hood. But I go wildly off into the sunset and am not even welding what I'm trying to stick together because I just plain can't see. I started out using 6013 rods. They were some of the old ones that came with the welder............and were just as old as the welder!!!!! Wasn't getting much in the way of decent welds so blamed the rods (not the operator, of course)...................so decided today to bite the bullet and pick up "the easiest rod for a beginner to get started with", 7018. Not so much splatter, I must admit, but I'm still not able to actually see. Getting a second strike on a rod isn't a problem because I just break the flux off the tip with my welding gloves. But I like the brick idea, Frosty. Will give that a try. I'm just going to go back to a flat 1/4" plate and practice on that. But there's no sense in drawing white lines on it like I see on Youtube.................'cause I cain't see'em! David, I'll stop by the welding supply tomorrow to pick up a #10 lens to see if that helps. Sure wish I could afford a good auto-darkening lens. Really good ones go for upwards of $400.................with cheapies going for as low as $35. I've read the new one from Harbor Freight is $119 and "supposedly" pretty darned impressive, but even that is ridiculous from my standpoint. David, I did find I did better when I cranked the amps up higher. If I had someone standing beside me saying, "uh, you need a little more amperage", or "I believe that rod is too thick for that material", I think I'd learn more quickly. The only people I know who are good welders have jobs and family and not enough spare time to be piddlin' with a newbie welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 I think the lighter lens will help. I usually set my $35 auto-darkening hood from HF about 2 shades lighter because I have the same problem, can see the arc but not the stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Couldn't put it into words, but that's exactly my problem, IFC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1 Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Yes, a common problem and unfortunately to do with age. I also have the auto darkening lenses two numbers lighter (13?) and +2 lenses inside the helmet. It helps a bit but not much. Sometimes I think I get the weld right only because I've been doing it for so long and I get to feel the steel joint with the torch/wire rather than seeing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Have you tried a couple of the bright halogen work lights so you can see the workpiece and rod even with your welding helmet on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 No, Thomas, I hadn't. I'm headed to the welding supply for a #10 lens right now and will see if that works. That would be cheaper than halogen lights............but thanks for the suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 16 hours ago, Chris C said: pick up "the easiest rod for a beginner to get started with", 7018. I'm not sure you ever said if your welder is AC only or AC/DC, but I can tell you that if you have AC only then regular 7018 rod is a horrible choice for a beginner. To have any reasonable amount of success you'll need high amperage and you will have constant issues with striking an arc or even losing the arc partway through laying a bead. If you have the option for DC reverse polarity it should be a completely different experience. The 7018AC rod is also a different (much more pleasant) experience. 6011 and 6013 rods are reasonable beginner rods, but they do penetrate more deeply, and that can mean blasting holes in thin stock. The key is (surprise, surprise) practice. I find the more time I spend welding, the better I get ....... at grinding. Seriously though it is worth the time to grind through some of your welds to get an idea of how deep the penetration was and if you actually did a good job consistently fusing the 2 pieces together. You are spot on with fixing the vision issue first though. If you can't see the arc, the puddle, and at least a little bit of the surface you are welding, your chance of success drops significantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Tombstone AC. I'm using a 7018AC rod. Stopped by my friend's supply house and he said rather than keeping on buying lenses to try them, just take his extra auto helmet (It'a a RAZOR, I think) and figure out which level works best for me and then buy a fixed lens to match that. That was "right kind" of him and I appreciate it. Will try and do some testing tomorrow to see if I can discern which level works for me. I'm thinking, based on the other auto lens I used, it will be a 10 or 11 but we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubba682 Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 If your eyes are real bad try a fixed lens #9 alot of our older welders use them i run a miller speed lens #10 i find it bright there around a 100 bucks up here they should be a littler cheaper in the states.Most guys i work with up here run the millers in the cheap black hoods and we put a head lamp on the sheild so ya got light in a tight spot when ya need it.What heat (amps) ya running the 7018 at ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Nothing wrong with my eyes that my RX glasses don't take care of. I see well at night............night-time driving is no problem. I was running at 160 amps and getting pretty nice welds..............when I could get started without sticking. I've got one really nice looking weld that drifted a half inch away from what I was trying to weld............and twice the length of what I was trying to weld. (because I couldn't see!!!!!) My friend loaned my his RAZOR RWX8000, which I understand is a pretty nice helmet. Tomorrow ought to be a lot better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 (Actually it may be a part of a fiendish plot to get you hooked on an auto helmet....seems like everyone I know that's used one has ended up buying one---whether they could afford one or not...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Well, I did hear him mutter something about making me a "good deal"...................................... From what I find on the Internet, it's a $235 helmet...........but this one isn't exactly like the new ones of the same model. I don't think even a "good deal" would turn out good enough for my pocket book when all I really need is a $2.35 replacement lens for me present helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Are you lifting the rod a little after striking the arc? I found that to be the hardest when I started. Once the arc starts, if the rod is touching the metal it will stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Yes, I am. But the instant I "strike the match", the rod sticks............about 80% of the time. Part of it has to do with the fact that I can't see, I think. So I'll see if it helps tomorrow when I try this new helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benona blacksmith Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 A drag start or scratch start I find the easiest way to start an arc. The chicken peck gets me stuck every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 Yup, I get that. But I didn't know where I was scratching/dragging. I'd get my electrode positioned and then when I flopped down the hood that position would move. Now I'll be able to see exactly where the tip of my electrode is when I initiate that motion. I feel assured things will work out. I'm quite capable of becoming a decent welder..............just need the chance that "seeing" will give me. Once I can see adequately, I can start practicing, which is what it'll take to get better. Can't focus on practicing if all you are doing is yanking the stuck rod off the project! I'll get the welder fired up tomorrow after I get home from the gym and start laying some beads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubba682 Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 160 amps is hot for 1/8 do you keep the rods dry or are they in a damp shop cause if there damp they will stick alot 7018 does not like moisture.If your running 5/32 rod your cold so try 175amps and if the rods are damp put them in your oven on 350 for about 2 hours it'll help with the sticking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 Brand new, just opened box..........perfectly dry and atmosphere temp was 60 degrees +. No worries, I'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 I hate flipping the shield down it always throws off my start position Sooooooo I only lift the lens to see and close it to strike the arc. The autodarkening shield solved that bit of hassle. I also have at least one additional light shining on the work, I'm getting so I can't see clearly through a #6 well enough for fine positioning. I'd gripe about problems getting old bestows but I didn't think I'd last long enough for the parts to start wearing out so I'm not displeased. . . So far anyway. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 3 minutes ago, Frosty said: I'd gripe about problems getting old bestows but I didn't think I'd last long enough for the parts to start wearing out so I'm not displeased. . . So far anyway. I gripe all the time about gettin' older, Frosty. It ain't fer sissies, as my Mom used to say. I hate every single little pain, pop or limp............not because it reminds me I'm gettin' older but because it slows me down and keeps me from doing the things I need to do. I've got a lot of years left and at the rate I'm adding things to the list that cause me to gripe, I don't think I'll be gettin' much done when I add another 20 years! Don't like it when I have to ask for help. Realized just the other day the only way I'm going to life my forge off the floor and up onto it's stand is to have someone drive out to my place and help. I hate that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 Practiced straight beads today with the borrowed helmet. Easy-peasy. Nice beads. Starting was no problem because I could see. Was using a #11 lens setting and it was just fine..........went down to #10 because that's what I have in one of my fixed lens hoods. In fact, after I had run about 10 rods, I tried it with my hood and all was well ! Started out with 6013 at 130 amps. Ran 4 12" beads with no problems.........nice and straight and clean. Then I tried 7018 rod at 145 amps. The rods kept losing arc and I had to start over and over a lot. "Okay" welds, but sure wasn't proud of them. Ran 4 12" beads that were okay but only as long as I could keep an arc firing. Then I ran 2 6" beads of 6013 with my fixed lens hood, one at 100 amps and one at 115 amps. Both were pretty nice welds. I think I'm headed in the right direction. Frustration level is much lower now. I think I will keep practicing, but am fairly confident I can make a hammer and tong rack I won't be totally embarrassed of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 Just got home from my friend's welding supply. Turns out I bought a box of 7018 but it wasn't AC, so no wonder it wasn't running well. I'll just give it to someone who can use it. Lesson learned. He critiqued my 6013 welds and said they looked great and wanted to know why I hadn't started making my hammer and ton racks yet. So I was pleased. Oh, and I had the wrong number of the auto welding hood when I said it was a $235 hood. I looked it up again when I had the hood in hand and it's a $69 hood, new. He wanted to sell it to me for $50. I declined. I've got a #10 lens in one of my hoods and can weld just fine with it now that I know how to get the stick started and can see once I do. I'll get a fancier one when funds allow. Too many other financial obligations now to take on another. So my little 'ol "buzz box" and I are gettin' to be good friends and will start makin' neat stuff together, I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 I have been a certified welder since 1985. Many times in my life being a welder has been very boring. BUT the things that welding allows you to fabricate are only limited by your imagination. Look at Daswolfs creations some of them are mind blowing. He is making art with steel using welding and forging. Me I am more autistic than artistic yet I have been able to make some very cool things. You will really enjoy learning and adding this new skill to your arsenal of skills. I have seen your expert wood working skills manifest in the knives you have shown to us. Me I am looking forward to learning some forging skills to add to my metal working skills. Make cool things and have fun with your new toy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 7, 2020 Author Share Posted March 7, 2020 Thanks, OC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanglediver Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 Sounds like fun is on your horizon! But, you have to iron out lots of basic requirements before your welds can take shape. 7018 makes so much slag, that it always balls up around the rod tip. Slag doesn't conduct an arc!! I usually just twist those rods into a hard surface on the ground, like putting out a cigarette, just to break that ball off the tip. Some like to shake the tip, with a hard snap, while it is red hot. Lighting the rod up on anything but a fresh rod is an art. But it is easier, I find, with 60 series rods. But just know that all rods fall into two categories, filler and penetration. Some filler rods are E7018, E7014, E6013. A couple of penetrating rods are E6010 and E6011. (The most common.) On AC, you can not run 6010, but 6011 works fine. Just because 6011 is a penetrating rod, that does not mean you can't run it on thin metal. It is also a "fast freeze" rod, and it actually does very well on thin stuff. Like you, I am "blessed" with running an AC tombstone. That's what the boss has in the shop for a stick welder. He has a mig welder too, but I don't like running it with shielding gas in the breeze. Fluxcore wire does have a place where high production is needed, but most of my work is small repairs. It really does get better, but you've got to put in lots of hood time to get there. Enjoy the ride! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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