ChrisB Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 I am thinking about twisting together three pieces of 1/4 round stock. To make legs for a pub height (40") table. I have a gasser forge that is set up with a back door to pass thru. I'm thinking I'll arc weld the three together at each end then heat a section at a time and keep putting one end in the vise to twist each section. I would appreciate any ideas one may have to keep this operation simple, painless and cost effective. Quote
Zsartell Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 That should work just fine. I've done long pieces in my coal forge before, you just have to control the heat with water and keep an eye on how much you are twisting and where it is twisting. (It's easier than it sounds) Quote
Glenn Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 Why not move the forge and vise closer together and make the twist in the fire? Quote
HWooldridge Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 Long twists are easily done as you suggest but I find it more efficient to use a torch to add heat to slower twisting areas that have cooled rather than use water to cool hot spots. It may be nothing more than "one man's opinion" but I believe it is more easily controlled and keeps the piece hot for the next part of the twist. Quote
civilwarblacksmith Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 You can also heat longer areas on the steel by moving it back and forth along the length until a long section is at temperature. As long as you have heated it up it will not take as long to reheat as you pull it from the fire to do that section. Quote
triw Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 (edited) I did the same thing and I took a piece of 2" x 1/4" stock and drilled holes 9/32" holes in the center of the stock. The holes formed a triangle and used this to twist with while the stock was in the forge. The front of the stock was in a vice and I kept moving the twisted stock out into the vice. I also kept the loose ends in a piece of 10' pipe to keep the ends in line for easier handling. I did this twice so I had two pieces about 19 feet long whick I welded togeather to form a 38' rope. I then formed this into a 4' high lasso with a copper hondo and then curled the remainder going back for a saddle rack. The friend who wanted it won the saddle in a calf roping event. Edited July 22, 2008 by triw Quote
KevinD Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 so I had two pieces about 19 feet long whick I welded togeather to form a 38' rope. I then formed this into a 4' high lasso with a copper hondo and then curled the remainder going back for a saddle rack. The friend who wanted it won the saddle in a calf roping event. That sounds cool. Got any pics? Quote
ironantlerforge Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I would also recommend the torch method as the easer way for a controlled even twist. but, what ever works IAF Quote
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I've never tried it.... but... would 3 pieces of 1/4" be too much to cold twist? I've seen long sections of 1/2" square twisted cold (just over twist a bit to accommodate for some spring back). Just a thought. -Aaron @ the SCF Quote
Dale Russell Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 ChrisB ,, you need to build yourself something like this Twister - Blacksmith Photo Gallery Does these " easy " COLD Twin outdoor candle / tinnie spike - Blacksmith Photo Gallery That twist in the uprite is 18 mm x 6 mm ( 3/4" x 1/4" ) Quote
John B Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 Weld the three bars together at both ends, longer than what is needed, and Take a piece of tube which will allow the rods to fit into, the length of the finished twist (at least), with not too much slack/clearance in. This will keep the item straight when twisting. Place the bundle of rods into the tube, Fix one end securely into a vice, support the tube with a suitable hold up horizontaly and make a twisting bar from a substantial piece of metal and twist it cold, the longer the twisting bar, the easier it is to twist. Points that may help; Try to keep a steady constant twist once you start. The tighter the twists get, the more difficult it will be to manually twist, particularly if you keep starting and stopping. When making the bundle make a good solid weld on each end, and if necessary forge it to a suitable shape to hold securely at each end, So long as one end will pass through the tube it will be OK, the other end could have a twisting bar welded straight on to it, or a square nut, or other suitable shape to locate your preferred method of manipulation. Or if you have a lathe, hold one of the ends in the lathe chuck, and engage low revs, support the securely held end at approx same height as lathe centre height, and off you go. Cut off the ends after twisting. Quote
Hofi Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 For twisting long steel cold I follow the same stages like john b but for twisting the 1/4 inch I use a medium- big hand drill forone end and the other end in the vice . For bigger size steel like 1/2- 5/8 inch I use for the twisting the ''rigid'' pipe threading machine works fantastic. Slow revolution and very powerful and controllable. Hofi. Quote
Valentin Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I also do it cold... in a tool similar to what Dale recomandate and i think You will be able to do that twister faster than u do the twist in the forge ! the longest i have done it was 3 meters out of 4 peaces of round x10mm...My twister is manual Quote
Frosty Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I'd do it cold in the lathe. A pipe threader is even better but I have the lathe. Making up a twister would be an excellent exercise in improvising equipment. An old washing machine motor, some pullies a section of something structural, a little drilling, bolting, welding and wiring and you're ready to go. Frosty Quote
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