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Making an anvil


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Evidently my diabetes decided that several pieces of cement needed a modified charpy test run on them using my skull as the impacter and the CT as the read out device.  I don't suggest it to others.   On the other hand I can look forward to rereading a lot of my research books over Christmas each year.

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Her shoulder is acting up; I could get her a wiffle ball bat.... she might be tempted to use it after she cut her thumb while washing the kitchen knives after I sharpened them and had warned her about them. Another lady at our church whose knives I had sharpened right before thanksgiving has emailed me twice thanking me so far.

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The sharpening knives situation must be universal. i gave up on sharpening knives due to complaints that they are  ... sharp. (?)

My reply to treat all knifes as if they are sharp did not work.

What I do now is keeping a diamond block at the ready in the kitchen and so i sharpen the knives I want to use as I go. Since knives do not complain of discrimination, this seems to work somehow :) 

 

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The knives *at* church look to be trying to impersonate bricks.  I've been thinking of sharpening them but I am afraid of the carnage possibilities---especially as we share our church with two other congregations so it would be hard to warn everyone.  "Sharper than the serpents tooth are these knives"  I guess I could put out a sign...

As to why we are kept around: just got a call from my wife; she couldn't get her storage locker open and she had a bit over an hour to clean it out and sweep it so she can formally turn it back to the company.  ($$$) Of course she's had months to do this; there were about 8 boxes left in it; most of which will get trashed...So I left work and ran over there, stepped on the roll up door lower handle to take pressure off the locking mechanism and slid the bar over,  loaded it all in the truck---so the wind can blow the dust off on the way home tonight, swept it, knocked down the cobwebs and headed back to work. I'll work 1/2 an hour later to make it up and will probably have a sinus infection for Christmas now.  I was planning to use a good dust mask when I go into her studio to get the coal stove for my shop...

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Gee whiz ... what does she ... did she do for a living?

Don't tell me knife manufacturer's inventory manager

:)

Lock - unlock ... yes, my sliding door's security bolt requires to push the door back a bit to release the pressure on the side of the bolt, a mystery that is only clear to myself. 

We must be relatives :P

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On 12/20/2019 at 11:26 AM, Goods said:

Kyle, I hope all of this has not chased you away. Get us some pictures of you current setup. We would love to help! If you in my area, I could help in person or hook you up with others who are much more knowledgeable than myself.

David

Hello David and many others that have given me great advice on this topic. I definitely have not been chased away and yes it is rather unfortunate that there was a big dilemma going on here... but as for my location I have no problem at all sharing it... complete didn’t think about putting it out there for those in my area to be able to help. I live close to Salt Lake City, Utah. If any smiths are in my area I’d absolutely love to be able to stop by and watch some work take place and learn. I’ve been studying methods and stuff for about a year now and have been doing actual blacksmithing for about half a year now. As for my current anvil, I have maybe a 15 pound guy that’s an anvil/vice. But I’m going to a family members house in a few days to get an 80 pounder hopefully for free because he wants me to teach him a thing or two and plus he seems to be willing to just let me have it hopefully. It does indeed need some repairs and refurbishing however. I have all sorts of makeshift anvils that I’ve just become tired of. I’m a workaholic and kid you not I am out smithing day and night. I just found a deal for bituminous coal at a place called Dallas Green for about 12 cents per pound. So I think it was $240 for a ton. I will be using both coal as gas forges since I now have my gas forge made and I’m going to make my forced air ribbon burners in a few days which should save me lots of propane right? I believe where I found the idea for the burners... he said it only needs to run at about 3-5 psi rather than 30. But thank you very very much to all of you who commented on my question and took the time and effort to type out your guys’ knowledge for me to learn. Yes I may be a 17 year old minor and all that and a bit of a newcomer but none of you has discouraged me or made me feel bullied or anything if any sorts. Thank you Matt for sticking up for me and thank you IF&C for letting me know about what you suggested... should help me out A considerable amount. I’ll leave some pictures of my set up tomorrow when I’ve got sunlight. Again I’m close to Salt Lake City, Utah so if any Blacksmiths are close by that would be willing to teach me in person I’d love that opportunity 

On 12/18/2019 at 10:41 AM, ThomasPowers said:

Kyle when you say "old style anvil" do you mean a london pattern anvil that is a pretty recent design and localized to a fairly small subset of the world or do you mean and anvil like this one below (on it's side to show the spike) that has been a design in use for 10 times LONGER than the London pattern anvil has and in pretty much everyplace that worked iron and steel hot? 

Before you disregard an improvised anvil; go find the National Geographic video from "Living Treasures of Japan" and watch the section about a Master swordsmith forging a katana and look carefully at his anvil!  (It can be found on youtube).

While the London Pattern anvil is a useful design---sort of like the "swiss army knife" of anvils.  It's not needed and not even the best design for specific cases!

Either I’m just a little slow or just blind but I re-read my post a few times and can’t find old style anvil but I really do want one and yes a London style. The one I’m getting in a few days is a London style. I don’t like my railroad one just because of the rounded face and wasn’t sure if the bottom was a good striking surface but also if I flip it upside down then I have no way to fasten my anvil to my base and no body around my house like s the ringing. But I have no hardy hole but have hardy tools and don’t have a horn or really anything I can think of to use as a horn. Here’s a picture of the anvil I’m getting... most likely for very cheap if not free since it’s a close family members old anvil that’s not used anymore. I can bring it to the college I’m going to once I graduate since I’m in a welding tech course at the college campus already and they can use the mill to flatter the face and do whatever else I need them to. Can also weld in the gouges on the edges and anywhere else that would be needed

B24C7367-DE86-4E0E-9435-A09A79E23007.jpeg

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On 12/18/2019 at 1:44 AM, pnut said:

Any heavy piece of steel will work as an anvil. I use a 29 1/2in. piece of RR track as an anvil and it works pretty well. Have you tried standing your piece of track vertically?  More steel under your hammer is better.

I think the only thing I had to pay for in building my charcoal forge and RR track anvil was the matress pump I use for an air supply.

You’ve got a nice little set up going on there! You really can forge with just about nothing haha. I’ll post my pictures of my current set up tomorrow but this summer I’m building my own welding/blacksmithing shop which I can’t wait for. But I’ve got lots of sheet metal for free and like my original post said.. I have all I need for a gas forge now that’ll suit all of my needs and even some great blowers I got for free off of my local classifieds! It’s like everything took a complete turn around for the better since I made my first post. But thank you for sharing your information and until I get my new anvil I will I deed try your suggestions

 

On 12/20/2019 at 12:16 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

Kyle, building a gasser will add a $150 or more to your starting expenses. While for $50 or less (depends on your abilities as a scrounge) you can get started with a solid fuel forge. 

I my self am all about low budget smithing, and with a $100 and a trip to town can have a forge, anvil, starting tools and stock. Given a week or two of scrounging I can get that down to $20 or less. 

We ask three things in return, do your homework (read at least the stickies in the areas your interested in so you come from a complete know nothing to a level so you can ask good questions.) 

Hello Charles, I’d live to hear your advice an such on smithing. I appreciate men like you that do take the time to help people like me. I am very new to this site and I definitely need to learn my way around so that I don’t ask questions already answered. Never even thought that someone else might have asked the same thing. I’ve got scrap steel all over my backyard and already have my burners planned out and ready for cutting and welding. What’s your opinion on ribbon burners? Would a forced air ribbon burner be better than a Venturi do you think? Again I’m full of questions and I always live to learn. But I hear different things from many different people about the two burners. What would your thoughts be? Oh and thank you sir for your time to respond 

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55 minutes ago, Kyle Haidet said:

I’m in a welding tech course at the college campus already and they can use the mill to flatter the face and do whatever else I need them to. Can also weld in the gouges on the edges and anywhere else that would be needed

DO NOT allow the anvil to be changed. The gouges are usually superficial beauty marks. The face of the anvil is the life of the anvil and removing even a small amount of metal can remove years or decades from the life of the anvil or destroy the anvil. 

Instead, use the anvil for a year (2000 hours of hammering) and then decide what that anvil can not do. Most likely the anvil is a hundred or more years old and can teach you many things. Be fair and try to find a way around any problem. 

The same anvil has supported families for years and generations. Take care of your anvil and when your finish, pass it on to the next generation of blacksmiths.

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It’s ok, ask questions. Unless you plan to move the refrigerator and computer in to the bathroom you will never get threw all the posts here. 

Unfortunately 90% of the hard face is gone. Not that you can’t get use of it or even restore it (spendy) if it’s free. Anvil restoration/repair is an often discussed. Don’t go grinding or milling until you learn more. Your going to need to do a lot of welding and welding wrought and tool steel require special processes.  

I would suggest asking Frosty or Mikey about gassers and propane burners. The forge 101 and burner 101 threads are extensive and tho they contain all the information you need Jerry likes to talk and Mike is a patient man both good qualities. Now we are only able to hand forge about 6” at a time so two burners are overkill and unnesisaraly heating can degrade its quality. A single burner is more effecent for 90% of work. Folks with gassers tend to have more than one for effecentcy  

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Be weary of that anvil. If it’s free so be it, but otherwise it’s over priced. The hardened steel face has broken off from cutting shelf to the hardy hole. It may work better than the rail upright, but I’m not sure of it. Look up the proper repair method for that lady, and see if you can get some experienced advise on the method. There is a link floating around this site somewhere for it...

Just my two cents...

David

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2 hours ago, Kyle Haidet said:

close to Salt Lake City, Utah

We won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it because so many accurate answers depend on location. This thread will help you learn your way around the forum, with tips like how to trim your quoting and others to keep the moderators happy. READ THIS FIRST

Like others have said unless the person who is going to help you repair that anvil knows a lot about the construction of anvils, they will do more harm than good. This article will explain a lot about anvil repair. Anvil Restoration

I see while I was typing you updated your location so disregard that part:ph34r: the rest is still useful though.

Edited by Irondragon Forge & Clay
add the last sentence
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2 hours ago, Glenn said:

DO NOT allow the anvil to be changed. The gouges are usually superficial beauty marks. The face of the anvil is the life of the anvil and removing even a small amount of metal can remove years or decades from the life of the anvil or destroy the anvil. 

Instead, use the anvil for a year (2000 hours of hammering) and then decide what that anvil can not do. Most likely the anvil is a hundred or more years old and can teach you many things. Be fair and try to find a way around any problem. 

The same anvil has supported families for years and generations. Take care of your anvil and when your finish, pass it on to the next generation of blacksmiths.

You know what... good point. I do love the charm of these old anvils. I was always told the edges and gouges of striking surfaces needed to be fixed but I think I’ll take your advice into account. I would hate to take its charm. I’ve been searching for an anvil for so so long. I hope I can get this one up to par. Thank you for the advice sir

47 minutes ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

This thread will help you learn your way around the forum, with tips like how to trim your quoting and others to keep the moderators happy. READ THIS FIRST

unless the person who is going to help you repair that anvil knows a lot about the construction of anvils, they will do more harm than good.

My bad I need to read that thread real quick. And as for the repairs for the face... I have no idea where to look for someone who could help me with it and not harm the anvil. Any suggestions if you might know?

2 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Unfortunately 90% of the hard face is gone. Not that you can’t get use of it or even restore it (spendy) if it’s free. Anvil restoration/repair is an often discussed. Don’t go grinding or milling until you learn more. Your going to need to do a lot of welding and welding wrought and tool steel require special processes.  

I would suggest asking Frosty or Mikey about gassers and propane burners.

Oh my I didn’t even notice. I hope it’ll be free. And I hope I can even find the resources to fix it. Man that’s a bit of a set back haha but I always seem to find a way around problems but thank you for telling me about the face. And as for the burners I’ll definitely try that out and thank you for your information. I’d love to be able to get good burners or just a better coal forge. And I look forward to meeting more people such as yourself to help me grow and hone my skills. Blacksmithing is my passion and I hope one day I can be like Alec Steele! Man is my idol

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Kyle, check out Wasach Forge. Ask for Matt. He is the owner, they are on about 3300 south and 300 west in South Salt Lake. They have been on fif a couple of times and won. Matt always has tool steel drops you can buy to use as anvils. I believe he sells them for $.75 a lb. I picked up a 5"x5" x7" s7 drop in trade for a granite block. Matt wanted to try and forge on granite. Wasatch Forge also gives classes. I would invite you over but my setup is torn up right now so it's unusable.

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On 12/24/2019 at 12:19 PM, FlatLiner said:

Kyle, check out Wasach Forge.  I would invite you over but my setup is torn up right now so it's unusable.

I’ll go ahead and check it out. Thank you very much for letting me know and I’d love to be able to go to some classes. Whenever you get your set up fixed I’d enjoy being able to see it

On 12/24/2019 at 12:32 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

See, just buy providing a general location...

Haha yes sir definitely will make a big difference 

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