caotropheus Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Got this anvil for about 200 USD in an antique shop. Seller told me it weighs 200 kg, but I haven't checked it yet by my self. It was really cheap for the country where I live, even for a cracked anvil. There are no marks of the manufacturer, so, can you guys please identify it? Ball bearing rebound is about 90% but there is almost no ring. Overall length 820 mm, height 310 mm. The guy has a lovely 300 kg anvil for sale, almost brand new but 1250 USD is a bit too much for me... I just forge as an hobbyist, probably I forge about 150 to 200 hours a Year, so, should I be concern about the crack? If the anvil splits into two, can I weld it back together using the right methods? I make most of my forgings on the anvil I improvised with an hydraulic breaker chisel. Thank you for your answers Almost forgot, the hardy hole and pritchel hole are in part filled with what seems to be metal from the casting. Can you guys please also give your opinion on this issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Interesting. I suspect it should be fine for hobby use, as long as you're not stressing the crack too much. It's hard to see in the photos, though; can you post another picture with the crack highlighted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caotropheus Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Yes, I will do it, I will ask my daughter to take a picture with her "super camera" probably we will see more detail of the crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Try to take the photo with the light at a low angle. That will cast shadows over any features in the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerrogerD Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Probably not “ringing” because of the crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechnicusJoe Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 This is a hand forged anvil. You can see the handling holes, the weld seams on the bottom of the anvil and many more details that scream this anvil was forged, not at all cast. The picture with the "crack" doesn't show where it is located on the anvil. The "crack" may very well be a forge weld seam from forge welding the central mass of the anvil. Or it is a forge weld seam where one of the two horns has been forge welded onto the central mass. Which means it is not a crack at all, just a sign of its production method and there is nothing wrong. On a cast steel anvil, this would be alarming, but this is not a cast steel anvil. It is hand forged, and it is not uncommon that forge weld seams are visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 I agree with TJ. From the photos I see no alarming cracks. It's a forged anvil, built up from chunks of iron forge welded together, steel top plate forge welded on. Something might be stuck in the hardie hole, looks like a previous owner tried to drill it out, or perhaps this anvil never had a hardie hole and someone tried to cut a new one French style (side exit). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BartW Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Looks like a forged iron with a steel plate on top. If the crack doesn't go through the steel plate, I wouldn't worry about it at all. It looks like a fine anvil. About it not having a ring, don't worry about it either; a high pitch ring is good to drive you nuts and deafen you after a while. If you have many anvils; you will notice you will almost always tend to use the least noisy; unless you really really need another one for some reason. Mass under the hammer is the only thing that really matters; while rebound and hardness are only helpfull if you plan to miss often (less damage to the anvil). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caotropheus Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 Gentleman, thank you very much for your answers. Do you have any idea of the manufacturer, country of origin? You can see more photos where i highlighted the crack with a marker. it starts at the top on the table, and continues downwards. It starts at 1/3 of the table, closer to the rounded horn. The hardy hole seems to be filled with some "casting spill". Also the hardy hole goes through the all body of the anvil, not like the French type hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BartW Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 If you have welding experience, it is very tempting to clean out the crack and start welding at it. I know, I've been in the excact same situation. But trust me, it's a LOT harder to do this welding correctly than it seems. Also, I don't think it's worth it, since nothing you can do will improve the anvil. Just use it as it is; and if you do manage to break off that part; then worry about welding it back. About the hardy hole; I'd put it under my drill press, use the biggest diameter hole I could get without touching the square side, and drill entirely through, then chisel of file the rest. I assume you have tried simply beating it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 The lack of ring indicates to me that there is a fairly big crack somewhere in it. That one you showed looks to be following the weld of that horn to the mass of the body to my eye and so a likely place for one to occur. I also am of the: use it, but not abuse it, till it causes problems. By then you may have a half dozen other anvils and that one would still be usable even missing one of the horns. (One of my favorite anvils is missing it's heel with hardy and pritchel; again failed forge weld of that section to the body.) As for the hardy I see no evidence of casting and as that is NOT a cast anvil I would not expect to see any. Some one started to drill it out in the corners. I suggest finishing that and then run a larger bit through the dead center of it and file/chisel to produce the one you want. Note: use a good drill press not a hand drill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Caotropheus, I've seen your "exercise in stubborness" video and your improvised anvil from a huge breaker bit. Those are among the best DIY anvils I've seen. I'm curious about your opinion regarding how those DIY anvils compare to a commercially produced anvil. As far as the anvil in this post is concerned, people with more experience and knowledge than I possess have already weighed in with good advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caotropheus Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 Gentleman, thank you very much for your answers. I am going to use this anvil the way it is. After all, the rebound is really good and the anvil was cheap. If it splits into two, I will repair it then. For that, once more I ask you gentleman if you can help me find country of origin and manufacturer. From here we can speculate on what iron/steel is made off to tune in repair methods. Most of my forgings are made on the breaker bit. The rebound is fantastic and metal moves real fast. If I miss a blow on the breaker bit, I will smash my face in the rebound! I use less the "exercise in stubborness" anvil, mainly when I need a striker and to use the horn. This past week end I made a wood stove poker and my son was the striker, missed several times the 5 kg sledge and nothing happened to the anvil surface (I love the mild steel body, hard surface combination...). I still do not know how I compare these "homemade anvils" with a real anvil because I never used one in a regular basis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BartW Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 I've seen anvils like these being made in Turkey when I went and visited the Sahinler factories. Normal soft iron body in 5 pieces forgewelded together, with a steel plate on top which is hardened. There were pictures in the factory tour where they forged these together. I couldn't find any markings on them either. However, regardless of the manufacturer of your anvil, I'd assume a plain iron or mild steel forged welded together body with a hard plate the equivalent of C80 or 1085 steel. greetings, Bart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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