Melting points of Metals and Alloys 1958

 

That would be handy in the forge. Visitors often ask about meting points. I wonder if a Celsius version exists?

 

 

And using the magic of Paint and Excel...

Ah! The marvels of technology. I will copy all that and have it available at the forge for reference. Thanks.

And through the magic of a little more Paint:

Thank you JHCC, 

printed, laminated and put on the inside of the door in my shop

thank you

Awesome job JHCC!

 

 

Yep, printed, laminated and on display. Here's another one I have in the forge:

 

This is a great reference chart! I am going to put it in my shop somewhere. It also gives you a visible reference as to why melting steel burns through refractory like its free... 2,750 is a long way up at the top of that chart and to cast it, it needs to be up around 3,000! its pretty impressive we (this modern world) have any refractories that can sustain those temperatures time and again. 

In fact very nice charts to give everyone an indication when certain alloys start to melt. however, note that these are the temperatures when the specified metals change from a solid state to the liquid state. However, this is not the temperature when a material is pourable well distributed in a mold. This must be determined experimentally by means of the necessary 'super' heat. In many cases this is a few degrees higher than what is indicated on the charts. For aluminum and bronze this is very easy to determine because the material starts to cavitate in the crucible, with pure copper and silver slightly more difficult, these materials must also be kept hot during casting (additional burner on the crucible during casting). Also very important to prevent oxidation of lower alloy elements due to their lower melting point such as tin (for bronze) and zinc (for brass). I am going to add an extra bit of alloy elements that have been oxidized from the molten bath until this time, feeling for casting (super heat). This is done under a thick layer of Flux (Borax) to prevent these from evaporating. Finally, don't forget to degas your melting pool to avoid unsightly blisters and inclusions. In my case I do this with crushed charcoal which is stirred under at the last minute.