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I Forge Iron

Rural


templehound

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Just two convex surfaces intersect in the center of the blade's edge, from heel to tip.

No advanced details in the grind, neither  ricasso nor shoulders like it is on edged tools since hundreds of years.

Timeless and as plain as possible with 1.2442 blade, copper ferrule and yellow ironwood handle.

Blade measures 90 mm and 215 mm overall length.

Cheers

 

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Love the simplicity and the lines. I am not a knife maker. I have neither the skills or the forge. But I was starting to get cranky since I had not seen a new knife from the knife makers for a few days. I have spent my entire career as a butcher and a chef and cannot get enough photos from the knife makers on this site.  Keep em coming. This winter I hope to start my first real knife. A good chef knife will be my first attempt. 

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12 hours ago, Joe Clit said:

Very beautiful knife, respect! Did you grind the bevels just on the slack belt? If so, how did you get the straight grind lines?

Thanks, Joe Clit!

I ground the plunge lines as crisp as possible on the flat grinding platen to grit 150, then I  ground diagonal(cater corned?)on the contakt wheel along the plunge line with grit 240.

In this case it was easy because there was no ricasso or shoulders which to take care of.

Slack belt grinding is the enemy of crips plunge lines, so i masked the plunge lines with paper tape(only paper , no plastic tapes) and went to the final convex shaping to sharper geometry on the slack belt.

followed by hand sanding.

Grinding nice plunge lines is always something that is strongly depending on skills, tools and machines.Every maker has different conditions on all those aspects, so it is very individual how to get the desired result....but I hope this gives some ideas and helps somehow.

Cheers

 

 

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