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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by templehound

  1. Daswulf, maybe You know this article already, but it is worth to post a link.....in the 1930's Frank Richtig did some performance that could not be matched until today. It is fascinating how thin on the edge and how different hard his blades were...there must be some manual skills how accurate in angle and speed the blade is driven into a chunk!(not a nail!) of steel....he never gave up his secret until he died, ....imaging the bragging of modern knife producers if they could do the same performance... https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/07/08/frank-j-richtig/ I love watching FIF....very entertaining and "cringing"......always fun watching and try to predict what will happen.
  2. SlimW, Thanks for the nice comment! Well, to be honest....I never felt that grinding a knife blade was or is easy...of course it depends.... the difference from a piece of crap to a good blade is space for plenty of results.
  3. Daswulf, Frosty: I cut nails 12 times and I felt some discomfort every cut, even I knew it was fool-proof.....normally I would not ask a blade to perform this either. ...even if I know the blade could take it....but I needed some "cringe" or "excitement" for the video with a context to the "geometry and HT are more important than the alloy"- subject.....Thanks for your contributions, Guys!
  4. Thanks for the beautiful comments, Gentlemen! They are much appreciated!
  5. I decided to make a film about a knife....that didn't work out, so I made a knife for a film and that turned out better. The "plot" describes the philosophy of the mechanical advantages and properties of the construction and the knife, ... as there would be: Heat treatment and geometry are more important than the alloy, the sense and purpose of real ferrules in hidden tang knives, the advantages of a laminated wooden handle, the high performance, the handling, the balance, and last but not least the advantages of the sheath and its structure. Capturing the atmosphere of the environment and making and performing own audio tracks was indispensable and vital..... so, here is the film about this knife, it was an unbelievable amount of work, took me 1 1/2 years to make and ruined 2 1/2 cameras and my PC is drowning in a chaos of files, folders, audio and video tracks and pieces....I even cannot remember what they are all about, but that's not important anymore..... here it is,... 30 minutes of "spiritual" distraction.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCWHDekWt0o&t=4s
  6. Thanks Frosty, much appreciated!
  7. ....that is such a broad question....imagine how much we have to write, explain, answer etc to nail that..... ....you checked the internet? ...most of liner locks can be "flipped"...
  8. During my education as a traditional German cutler and blade smith I had to do slip joints.....and I didn't like them at all. There are a lot of do's and don'ts on slipjoints ...from limited using range to the fact that they are very hard to clean.... Also the very small design range when making them....compared to a linerlock they must loose in every aspect. (actually it would be more appropriate to compare linerlocks with backlock knives, but I compared them just under the term of folding knives.).... ....and yes, not to forget: we are not supposed to let them snap back into the handle....a good crisp, long lasting spring has a strong snap and the edge will thereby hit the spring and get a nick.....reason for the monstrous kick heels on some traditional pocket knife patterns ....as You for shure know....nevertheless the heels, it can smack the edge.....so do not let the blade snap into the handle. But that's the half part of the fun... ...and this is the reason I love them nowadays....the are great fun to make....somehow they are like a toy to me.... maybe they are the most useful toy that exists. They walk and talk with a strong whack when they are opened and a good snap when they are closed....There are plenty of challenging things on the making of a slip joint, like for example, to design them that You can let the blade snap back into the handle... If the linguistic and rethoric context is slightly adjusted in a translation of the term "slipjoint knives", in three languages of English. German and Thai, it can result in "Jumping joint jack knife" ....so it is the "Jumping Jack" Here is a traditional one in O7 steel for blade and spring, some crap steel for the bolsters , German silver liners and fossile bone handle slabs. here You can hear it talking and see it walking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcb_Sp0QOrw Stay healthy Cheers
  9. I once red an article written by Ed Fowler.He cold forged mild steel to a decent blade.In this case Cold forged means reallly cold forged like hammering the edge of a scythe. no fire and heat just patiently hammering the blade.....it showed good results, not a winner in edge holding but because of the fine grain fairly tough and as good as it can be used....but horse shoes still got their holes
  10. Thats a solid user! The materials 1095 and canvas micarta are nearly indestructable....and You got a nice design with a pleasing agressive tension in the spine line. ....and a nice form on the handle as well.... I see You had or maybe had some struggle with the blade finish....a bit too uneven and coarse, but maybe You wanted it that way because the finish is first to be ruined on a user that will see field action....cutting through hay wire a sheepfoot blade came immediately to my mind....but sheepfoots are not the blade forms that win the beauty contest and that curved skinner is much more attractive ....and with its large belly this blade will get the job done pretty well. Cool knife! Cheers
  11. That piece deserves more than zero replies in 5 Days.... regardless of the facts that this piece is actually not my taste I have lots of respect for the amount of the work and how consequentlyYou made it according to the guard and especially the sheath....such sheaths can be real butt kicking devices. As well as the fluted work on the handle and keeping it symetrical in all parts...! I could imagine getting the brass a bit dirty with some patina and gun blue the blade....it will make it look more sinsister and mean...because this is a mean tool. In my eyes polished brass( or bronze) always looks cheap, but not all people like it antique like me....we are only slaves of our taste. Overall very well done!
  12. Thomas and IrondragonFCW, Thanks for the kind words! George N.M.: thats North American Native indeed.The backing track is music from my band from younger times.We mixed it together with some Native chanting which came from an old casette tape.As far as I can remember it is a Navajo marriage chant....they always sing in major, it will walways sound good to major rock music. rhitee93: ...there You said something my left arm swung away from the cutting goods, same direction as the swing.If my left arm would swing towards the blade or the cut, then I would be worried too.Left hand and blade are almost a wingspan apart, no way I could hurt myself. there are more cutting tests as You will see in the upcoming film, most of the time my left arm is folded to my chest.Like in boxing when you throw a right punch your left hand should take instinctively high guard.head protected, limb out of the way and very important, maintaining body balance. I never agreed putting one arm behind the back while chopping.IMHO it gives muscle tensions on the left side that negatively affects the body balance and thus also the accuracy of the blow...but, IMHO like I said, someone else may feel differently....rhitee93 Thanks for the good comment!....what does it mean?...Take this FWIW Glenn, Frosty, M.J.Lampert:....no chainsaws and chickens will show up...Frosty: what does "10 IIRC" mean? But I agree Gentlemen,...nothing more dangerous like a chainsaw...its like a cocked gun placed on a table...so do not slam on that table! Cheers
  13. I started at the end of last rainy season and now at the beginning of the new monsoon I am nearly finished. You all stay healthy Cheers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-bNYedIKEw
  14. Take the opportunity to practice small details whenever the shape of the blade allows. O7 combined with copper and Burma ironwood. Blade length measures 4 inches. Tang is riveted on the butt. Cheers
  15. For the second knife that turned out pretty good....thats what came immediately to my mind. As a suggestion or stimulus I would recommend take a look and give a thought in size and design ratio....that design is too much like a spade. It is for most tasks too wide, whether you peel an apple or dress game while hunting.Maybe You can skin with it but when releasing bones out of joints there is simply not enough space most of the time for such a broad blade.....and it would aesthetically look better if not that broad. I dont know if I understand it linguistically right, that you blame the 1084 for the grain structure and thinking with another 1095 it would be better. It is not the steel that is responsible for coarse or/and inconsistent grain....well, it is You and your technique in heat treatment Heat treating with the forge is something for the more experienced maker....but I dont recommend it. It is not accurate! Even after 30 years of forging and knifemaking I never would heat treat without a kiln or oven and a proper thermometer...heat treating is with edge geometry the most important thing to get a good quality knife....it has to be controlled and it has to be clean....HT with the forge without experience is not more than guessing, resulting in uneven solution, coarse grain, cracks, pollution and the like And I really dont understand the term " soaking" ...do you mean the time holding the steel in temperature? If so, the old school and classic technique for time of a knife blade holding in the oven is 1 minute per each millimeter. If you have a blade with 5 mm in thickness, it is the first minute getting it up to temperature and then holding it for 5 minutes. Before You put your focus on bevel looks and finish get the geometry and the forms a bit better under control...starting with the edge. It is still much too tick. near the ricasso it is a thick wedge....and the picture from the back shows the tip ist still blunt and thick and not pointy. Well, that's what I call a clear criticism, but it is well-intentioned, hope you understand it right and get some advantage out of it. Like I said at the beginning for the second piece you did really good....if You focus on the real high performance quality, because thats what all handmades should have, You will be a skilled and very good maker....you got good basics already good Luck Cheers
  16. Hondo, 99% of reason for failure forge welding is fire control.You have to understand the fact of a reduced fire. first: Take a look at the video of Black Bear Forge, he explains it excellent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j814AqiKVvE second: do not use scrap steel! You are not saving money!! You will be wasting time and! money!Recycling on old leaf springs, shear blades, etc. is more expensive than a few bucks for fresh clean tool steel. and as Thomas pointed out, the error of steel alloys that comes with scrap steel. cheers
  17. Thanks Rhyfelwr, much appreciated Thank You HondoWalker! That Bowie turned out great, You are on the right way!
  18. Thanks for the nice comments, Gentlemen!
  19. The blade is 300 mm long and forged of 120WNi8V. It is a special steel which is non commercially made by an old friend of mine Thomas Hauschild who works in a steel company. There he experimented and processed on a Damascus component which contains tungsten as well as nickel up to 2%.He gifted me an oblong rectangular chunk which I could forge on into some blades. " Continue kneading it nicely" ...he said Until today it is the toughest steel on a knife blade that I worked with....means easy to forge, grind and finish but resulting in a super tough blade......I wish I had a ton of of it. When it comes to blade material this is the real flesh of gods..... Handle and sheath are made of the same chunk of Merawan ironwood and all fittings are copper.The tang is riveted on the butt forming the center of the flower. Overall length is 450 mm. Stay healthy Cheers
  20. Thanks a lot for the fine comments, Gentlemen! It is the flight image of a common buzzard.Its my touchmark since almost 30years. Thanks George N.M.
  21. Despite the changes that I made, I tried to stay as close to the originals as possible. The fullered blade is 310 mm long and forged from fresh, non recycled 55Si7 springsteel. The handle is made from Ceylon ironwood. I used mild steel for the ferrule and the tang is riveted over the butt, forming the center of the sterling silver flower. It has a wooden sheath covered with cow leather and the chape is silver plated copper. Instead of a Chakmak sharpener I made a small wood chisel which is more useful to me. The chisel and the small Karda knife are ground from 1.5634 (75Ni8). To save space and keep it more flat they are flat tang with steel pinned Ceylon ironwood scales. The Kukhri weighs 500 grams and its total weight is 750 grams. Cheers
  22. Your etch is not deep enough thats because you can wipe it off. Ferric chloride is good for coloring but not good for deep etching. Etch with H2So4(38%, room temperature)to get some depth then etch in ferric chloride to get rhe colors, But cold instant coffee is much better then ferric chloride.....the etch with coffe is more even, it etches faster and it is no chemical poison when it needs to be disposed.
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