tompdw Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 I am considering making a tomahawk or hatchet. I don't have a mandrel for the handle hole. does anyone have any helpful hints on how to build a mandrel or tomahawk? What kind of steel do I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 I Would Just Punch Then Drift The Hole! As Far As Steel Goes, Use Mild Steel To Learn: But Act Like It's Carbon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveh Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 ball pein hammers make excellent tomahawks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 Drifts are a bit different shape for hawks. Forgeing your own would be good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmercier Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 They're only different shaped if you want them to be different shaped. Joe Szliaski, ABS Master Smith, recommended that you actually dont want a "hawk shaped hole" for user hawks anyways because if you're in the woods and your handle breaks, it's far easier to use a square or round hole to secure the head on a makeshift handle than it is to try to carve a piece of wood to fit the typical "tear drop" shape you see on many hawks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandalphon Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 Here is a very easy Tomahawk/Throwing axe from an HC rail spike:Click Here then go to #12 Goto the entry for "throwing Ax" Entry #12 from the top. This site is also a great general reference for many adaptations on tools designs and other projects Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tompdw Posted March 24, 2008 Author Share Posted March 24, 2008 Gentlemen, thank you for the insights. I'm not sure if I will use a block of common steel and punch it or get a ball peen hammer. When I figure out what I will do there will be pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 There was a fellow in OH making/selling both hawk and hammer drifts. You might contact one of the local smithing groups there for details. Even if you use a ballpeen hammer head you probably want to drift out the eye to make it larger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 Look at BP0163, Handled Punch, and see what the eye drifts i make look like. They fit the Cherokee brand handles the local hardware store sells pretty good. I make them from mild steel, and case harden with Kasenit if I feel like taking the time. There's different ways to make the initial hole. I was taught to slot punch, and drift to size. Figure out the circumference of the eye drift, and use a slot punch that's the same or a bit smaller. I usually use a 1/8inch by 1 inch slot punch, or a 1/8 x 7/8 for smaller holes and I get by fine. I don't know what traditional eyes are supposed to look like, I buy a case of handles and make all my hammers and set tools fit them, so everything I pick up feels natural to my hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 I't's time consuming, but not that difficult to make your own drifts for hammers and tomahawks. The easiest way is to start with a hammer or tomahawk of the size you will be making in the future and size the drift to fit that. Samples are here: http://www.dancingfrogforge.com/HammerHawkDriftsc.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tompdw Posted March 24, 2008 Author Share Posted March 24, 2008 What is a good steel for the drifts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 You can use just about anything if the size is right.....coil spring, axle shaft, any rod off a vehicle, old pry bars. They are drifts to push out the metal to form the hole, not tempered cutting tools. I happened to have drops of 1045 that I used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Askdamice Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 They're only different shaped if you want them to be different shaped. Joe Szliaski, ABS Master Smith, recommended that you actually dont want a "hawk shaped hole" for user hawks anyways because if you're in the woods and your handle breaks, it's far easier to use a square or round hole to secure the head on a makeshift handle than it is to try to carve a piece of wood to fit the typical "tear drop" shape you see on many hawks. I must respectfully disagree with Joe having dedicated most of my life to wilderness living and primitive skills. Trying to remove a broken handle from an axehead in the woods is a daunting task to say the least. Then you have to fit the head and drive a wedge in! tough stuff in my experience. I stopped carrying Gransfors Bruks axes for exactly that reason. It takes a lot less effort to taper a limb to fit a hawk and the teardrop is only needed for the last six inches or so. Historicaly, very few "Mountainmen", "Longhunters" and "Voyageurs" carried a axe when compared to a hawk. Especially when on the move. In permanent camps the axe was preferred for heavier work. That is from my own experience... to each his own, bro. Rick I agree with drifting the eye rather than using a mandrel***EDIT*** After reviewing the post... I could be wrong in thinking Joe meant the typical straight axe head eye... if he meant to simply use a round or square shaped "tapered" hawk eye... then I agree to some extent but the round hole could allow the head to spin during use which is dagerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tompdw Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Here they are. They are crude and rough but I know what needs done on the next ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 what size is good for an eye? i also am thinking of making a viking chopping axe (close, i think). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Here they are. They are crude and rough but I know what needs done on the next ones. You call it crude, but I say its cool, I like the shapes/designs. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Pretty nice Tom. A fighting axe isn't necessarily supposed to be pretty. Especially just a fast look seen edge on. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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