Anvil Material

[Johnyb999]

Hi

i have bought this anvil off eBay and the seller said it isn't cast iron , I know the picture isn't good but from the texture on the anvil can anyone tell me what it's made of? 

Thanks

 

john

[jeremy k]

Looks forged to me, has the appearance of a Peter Wright, more pictures of different views could verify that

[ThomasPowers]

Does it ring nicely when tapped?  And can we have a picture of the horn?

[Johnyb999]

Here u go 

[C-1ToolSteel]

Yep. That's no cast iron junk. Probably wrought iron with a steel faceplate. Most likely a Peter Wright. It's in good condithion.

[Johnyb999]

Thanks for the replies lads, I'm picking it up on Friday, I paid £200 for it does that sound about right? I haven't got any close up pictures and no idea why it's painted black??

john 

[JHCC]

22 minutes ago, Johnyb999 said:

no idea why it's painted black??

Might just be oiled, but if it is painted, check it over before you hand over your cash! A layer of paint could well be concealing hidden flaws, and frankly, it looks from the photos like there might be a crack in the face, running back from the saddle.

If you haven't already, read @Everything Mac's Anvils: A beginner buyers guide; the section on testing is #3.

[Johnyb999]

Thanks much appreciated 

John 

[John in Oly, WA]

What's the weight of it? It looks to be in decent shape. If so, and it's in the 200-250lb range, 200 pounds (don't know how to get that monetary symbol on this keyboard/browser/forum) is a pretty good price.

[JHCC]

Hold down the Alt key and type "156" on your number pad, thus: £.

[Johnyb999]

Thanks John

i suppose that would equate to 260 dollars? I'm in the uk so still using pounds, the owner said it is a definite two man lift , 14'' height 28'' length with a 5'' face 

thanks

 

[John in Oly, WA]

£

Thanks! Too cool!

Interesting to note that typing "156" on the keypad while holding down the "alt" key is completely different than typing "156" on the number bar across the top of the keyboard.

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard Johnny, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many Iforge folk live within visiting distance.

That looks like a darned nice anvil if it doesn't have any hidden defects. Take a ball bearing or light ball pein hammer with you and do a rebound test before you buy it. If the face is painted it will effect rebound and sound so the tests won't be a sure. Were I bargaining for it, I'd lower my counter offer because the face was painted. Explain how a layer of paint hides defects and lowers the value. Have him wire brush it off if he doesn't want to take a discounted price. NO grinder or sanding disk! Wire brush ONLY on the face, grinding REALLY lowers the value, there is only just so much high carbon face plate on a forged anvil, and that's removed is years or decades of useful life removed, forever.

That looks like a torch cut in the face behind the step, if so it's worth another discount the heat affect zone can damage the heat treatment of the face in addition to the defect itself. Pay extra attention to the area for about 3/4" around it when doing the rebound test.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Johnyb999]

Thanks Frosty really useful information 

thanks

john 

[John in Oly, WA]

If it turns out to be all in decent shape, I'd be very happy to pay that price. Good luck with it! And keep us posted.

[Frosty]

You're welcome John, my pleasure.

Agreed, if it's as it appears and passes the rebound test that's a fair price. Still a counter offer is always in order. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[C-1ToolSteel]

Counter offers can make or break you. The way the anvil prices have skyrocketed, It can be a challenge to find a decent anvil for a decent price. Especially on sites like ebay and Craigslist. Lots of people on this forum have missed out on an exeptional deal because that anvil was SOLD by the time they could come up with a counter offer to knock a few bucks off. Do your research BEFORE that deal shows up and jump on it when it comes along. Now, if you see an anvil collecting dust in you neighbor's barn, that's a different story, but don't forget that on ebay, there are hundreds of people lined up who are looking for a deal.

I think you did real good.

[Everything Mac]

On 22/08/2017 at 6:32 PM, JHCC said:

Might just be oiled, but if it is painted, check it over before you hand over your cash! A layer of paint could well be concealing hidden flaws, and frankly, it looks from the photos like there might be a crack in the face, running back from the saddle.

If you haven't already, read @Everything Mac's Anvils: A beginner buyers guide; the section on testing is #3.

Fully agree. Make sure you're happy before you hand over the cash. 

£200 is a decent price these days. 

 

Looks like there may be a gouge in the face but there's plenty of space left on it. 

 

28" long? that'l be around 2cwt.

 

I've also done a video on identifying what your anvil is made of here:

 

All the best 

Andy

[George Geist]

On 8/22/2017 at 2:46 PM, Frosty said:

 NO grinder or sanding disk! Wire brush ONLY on the face, grinding REALLY lowers the value, there is only just so much high carbon face plate on a forged anvil, and that's removed is years or decades of useful life removed, forever.

That looks like a torch cut in the face behind the step, if so it's worth another discount the heat affect zone can damage the heat treatment of the face in addition to the defect itself. Pay extra attention to the area for about 3/4" around it when doing the rebound test.

Frosty The Lucky.

You know Frosty, lately I've been thinking, many of these poor old anvils are living in peril. We've all heard of castle doctrine yes? 

I think maybe hazard or caution tape or maybe flagging should clearly demarcate an area extending at least 10' from every anvil. (Aso's exempt)

George

[Lou L]

Poor guys with small work spaces like I have will be prosecuted unfairly because my anvil is too close to the bench where I grind. Not fair!  But I'm totally good with the spirit of the rules you propose.

Honestly, though, the dimensions of that anvil seem a bit "off" to me.  The waist and feet seem a bit narrow compared to the rest of the anvil.  It could easily be the angles of the photos and a rebound test will tell all.  It certainly has handling holes but the feet just seem odd.  Once again, I know next to nothing.

[Mtnstream]

Johnyb, looks like a great anvil. I agree it looks a lot like my Peter Wright which is also 28" from stem to stern with a 5" face and weighs in at 200 lbs. So if it passes the rebound test you are getting it at a fine price....enjoy!

[Johnyb999]

Thanks mate , made a stand up for it and wire brushed the face up, did a bit on it today rings like a bell mate 

[Glenn]

Please keep the discussion on topic and positive in nature. Several posts that were off topic and against the forum rules have been taken off line.

[ThomasPowers]

Generally  stands made from stacking up lumber horizontally are not as efficient as stands made by running the boards vertically.  Every interface loses a bit of energy and so vertically you have 2 Stand to anvil and stand to floor.  That one has 10.  Should take the same amount of lumber too.  Now that will work and someone just getting into smithing might not notice a difference until they go to a better stand and find they are getting more work done or are not as tired doing the same amount of work.