Al Stephens Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Started rebuild of a "lever forge" today. That's what my hard cover, 1902 Sears, Roebuck & Co. Cat.#112 called it. Looks like their No. 24V1008 , cost $5.95 in1902! Some one decided, years before I got it, to cut some holes in the pan sides, but other than that everything will work. I do need a 1" x 52&1/2" leather belt to make the blower turn. Does anybody have any idea where to get something like this in the USA. Will accept alternate ideas. Belt will have to lace together, the blower fully is inside a casting, no way to roll a solid belt on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Tandy Leather their website has a store locator on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Leather is nice, but I've used nylon webbing in a pinch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I have been using the belts you use to strap things (Can't remember the English word.) It CAN be put together using paper staples. I did that first but the result was rather noisy with a lot of vibrations. After that I took it off, cut the ends using a carpenetr's chisel, solidified the ends by heating them and then stiched it together pulling the thread in a figure of eight pattern to get a butt end joint. If it slips I add a coupe of drops of oil - yes it works. It sticks by smearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desmato Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 Hey PVF... can you give me the measurement of the handle from the pivot point to the eyelet, and the length on the connector link ? I have the same forge, though it's the older 4 legged version, and I am missing the handle, pivot and link. trying to get those measurements as exact as possible. Yours looks to be as close to original as I've seen. BTW, the 3 holes are for a heat shield, the missing chunk..... sadly, it's missing. Thanks, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Stephens Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 Hi Todd, Pivot to eyelet is 10". Connector link is 7". I finally used a piece of old tiedown strap and made a belt, which seemed to work fine. Had to make a ash dump gate, even made a smaller firepot from an old cast iron pan, so I could get a deeper, smaller, bed of coal. Started a heat shield ,but never installed it. Was never able to get the blower to sustain a good air flow. Ran out of playtime, disassembled the whole thing, and put in storage for...someday. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desmato Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Awesome, thanks a bunch ! Mine was missing the dump cover as well. I assume those rotted away rather quickly given the corrosiveness of the ash and age of these forges. I just cut some sheet and used a screw with a spring under the head for tension. works fine. As for the belt, if it's too tight it won't allow the flywheel/blower to spin fast or for long. Mine had a cloth belt that was way too tight. being made of cloth, it slipped easily prompting the original installer to make it tight. No Bueno. I don't believe these were never meant for FORGING but rather light duty farm work, periodic shoeing, riveting etc. no way to get a deep fire even with piling the coal up high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 On 2/9/2017 at 4:21 PM, PVF Al said: I do need a 1" x 52&1/2" leather belt Talk to your neighbour who does Leather work and makes Belts (yes, for your pants). Don't over-think the situation. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukerec Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Hey Im in the process of restoring that same forge you have there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukerec Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 I used a serpentine belt with a rivet. It blows pretty hard, not sure how well it will cook my coal though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeke Zabo Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Hello all, new member here. I have the same forge and have it running. However, the fan seemed unbalanced and after taking it apart found that one of the fan blade "ears" is broken (and missing). Any ideas on "replacing" the whole blower blade or just the one ear? Haven't hit metal for years, and then found this whole outfit including stump, anvil, tools, forge, etc for a couple hundred bucks. Can't wait to start making noise and smoke. Thanks to all Zeke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Hi, Zeke, and welcome to IFI! If you haven’t yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!! Regarding your problem, it’s hard to make specific recommendations without photos. That said, however, I would generally recommend making a new blade out of sheet metal and riveting it in place. As long as it balances reasonably well, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmall Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Ive used the link belt that snaps together in whatever length you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeke Zabo Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Thanks JHCC. I have read the "read this first".... of course after my first post. I welcome any etiquette or content suggestions. Your suggestion is what I was thinking, sheet metal with a little extra weight to make everything balanced. Attaching it is the issue as the hub is cast iron and I am not sure how to drill it. Do you think that grinding a fresh surface and an epoxy will work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Not for long; the epoxy will eventually degrade from the heat and fail. Cast iron can usually be drilled and tapped fairly easily, so screwing directly to the hub might be an option. Brazing the new blade in place might also be worth considering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Stephens Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 I would use JHCC suggestion and drill and tap the hub. Good Luck. Mine is still in storage, but I have time to work on it now. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Post a picture of what you have, so we can give better advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeke Zabo Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Here are some pics. I'll be measuring the hub of the fan and leaves. I think some sheet metal "origami" will let me bend it so flaps can be bent parallel to the hub with the leaves in the right orientation and then self-drilling sheet metal screws can be used. Any thoughts on lubing the tapered bearing ends in the casing. Thinking high-temp grease should be okay. Thanks again, Zeke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clgill57 Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 The fan bearings are tapered and are poured Babbitt so its going to be tough to replace them unless you know how to pour babbitt bearings I have to do its to my lever forge too I think the ratchet drive bearings could be brass bushed since I dont believe those tapered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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