I had the genius idea a couple days ago to make some last minute Christmas gifts and thought of a candy cane. Simple enough project except I was thinking about doing it from two different steels welded together then twisted to give the stripes. I fought all day today and have nothing but scrap steel to show for it. At first my fire didn't want to get hot then once it did I couldn't keep it hot. Seemed like every time I got a small section welded I had to clean the fire from clinker. Finally I gave up on trying to weld it and went straight to the twisting. Everything was going fine for a couple heats then I got distracted and got an uneven heat and ended up shearing off the end. I tried a few times a few different ways and decided it was just not meant to happen so I gave up on it. I did clean up the piece that twisted off and put a taper and ground it roughly even and done a 5 second etch (I need to dilute me etchtant) and found that the steels actually etched backwards from what I expected. I thought the steel with the higher chrome count would've etched shiny and the mild would've been dark but it didn't.

So even though I didn't get what I was after I learned a couple things today so my time wasn't completely wasted. 

I'm no help on this probably but sounds like a possible fuel or air issue as far as the heat.

the idea is a good one though, lots of forge welding also 

Rather than forge weld at size stock (small stock), forge weld two larger stocks together then draw them down to size.

2 hours ago, Glenn said:

Rather than forge weld at size stock (small stock), forge weld two larger stocks together then draw them down to size.

I was starting with two layers of 1/4" steel and planned to draw the thickness down some after welding. I'm thinking about trying larger but don't want to go too big and it affect the twist. I do plan on trying some more but decided to give up for now. Im thinking that my constant failures today happens to be a sign it's just not meant to be right now.

So I'm not the only one who has days like that!  Best idea is to kill the forge fire and go inside with a cool drink, switch on the aircon and watch the cricket on TV.

That my be fine for you Aussies, but here in the UK when we have one of those days.......

 

 

......we turn of the cricket on the TV off and go light the forge and beat up some metal....!

You think of maybe dispensing with the welding formality?

Get a damascus billet then cut and forge it to whatever you want

George

9 hours ago, ausfire said:

So I'm not the only one who has days like that!  Best idea is to kill the forge fire and go inside with a cool drink, switch on the aircon and watch the cricket on TV.

I enjoy watching my chooks eat crickets  

1 hour ago, George Geist said:

You think of maybe dispensing with the welding formality?

Get a damascus billet then cut and forge it to whatever you want

George

I tried that and it gave decent enough results. The only issue with that was the joint between the two steels is then a small line once you etch.

I've already gotten rid of the failure due to frustration but if I try again I'll post pictures. Actually I do have one small piece I'm making a keychain.

It still needs lots of work to finish but I didn't want to waste all that effort.

Might be a case of where you are more concerned with the flaws than any recipient would be.  Perfect is nice but not always necessary.  That will be a cool little key fob.

 

I told my wife I had her a unicorn horn keychain and she looked at me like I was crazy lol. Then I showed her and she tells me she knows some other people that would like one. I'd have to do measuring to know the size of that one but I think they need to be a little smaller. 

I very wel can be too critical on the flaws. I'm just one of those people I don't like something leaving that isn't perfect. 

Fuller one or more grooves lengthwise on the round stock and twist. A hot cut is too narrow to use in place of the fuller; it may close up too much to give a nice appearance. I think it's best to make a small half round fuller.

That might be just the thing I need to do. Thanks for the suggestion, Frank. It will give a different look than I had originally intended but if it works better than what I have so far that means it's a winner.  

We go down the forge to relax after watching cricket, especially after the pasting we got from india....

Michael,

As Dogsoldat said, you're into an interesting realm and while it may not be exactly what you're looking for it'll blow them away. 

Forged tubing, pipe, angle iron thats folded and then twisted makes for a very cool effect. Forged again after twisting and its something else.

You might try jump welding stainless steel (jump weld- jump over to your welder) in long beads down a pipe or square tubing. In the middle of the tube or down the coners, doesn't matter. 

The first picture has two examples of twisted pipe/tubing. Forge into a figure 8 in cross section. Flatten from the vertical, twist tight, forge to your liking. 

The second picture is slitted 1" hot rolled steel with 1/4" x 2" copper upset on its edge and then twisted together at heat. Someone else can name that technique. Linear twisted rivet?

Thanks for the suggestions. I like those handles in the second picture.

In the coming weeks, as time allows, I will make at least one more attempt and see what happens. When that time comes I'll post some pictures here.

I really, really like those copper twists on the handle.   Pretty sure I have a picture in my head of how you do it from your description,  but would love to see a WIP on them just cause.  Did I say I like them 

Slit the receiver bar. Square works well since it's easy to grab with a wrench or vise but it could be round. It probably goes without saying, but I pre fit the space for the copper with a mild steel dummy and file out any extra material that's left over from the slitting in the receiver bar. Get the receiver bar hot and tap it down around the dummy slug so it makes a nice fit. This will help everything stay where it should when you start upsetting the copper. Go slow, work from each side, and give it some good whacks. You do want the "head" to mushroom out like a rivet but you need deep blows to expand the copper closer to the center also. 

On slitting - lay out your lines with a cold chisel or cut off wheel. I've used slitting tools in my power hammer but nothing works as slick as using a hot cut in the hardy and a hot cut tool hammering from the top side. And yes, if you do the math you realize that technique uses 3 hands so find a friend to strike or hold the hot piece.  

I've already finished that one. The WiP shots will have to come from you.