25 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

 

I like McRaven's method; but then I am friends with several folks in the local VFD

I don't think it would be too hard to convince the VFD anyways- ask them, buy a few pizza's and watch the show- Its a good spectacle! Maybe have a school day demonstration with it! 

The Fire Fighters I have known are usually some pretty accomodating folks, I'm sure I could talk a few into hozing down some really hot steel, even if it costs a few dollars or steaks.

Most VFD's I've known are easy to get along with.  They might have regulations against such a thing, but they might also be able to schedule an exercise where you just happened to be cooking an anvil.  A nice donation to the department is always appreciated!  

Definitely drill for your pritchel hole and hardy before welding.

Or, and this might sound entirely ridiculous, do away with the tine as the top piece.  Just level everything off with some 7018 (or whatever rod you decide), and then apply a couple passes with a good impact-resistant hard facing rod.  I realize you've gone through a bit of work to cut down the body for the center ridge, but there's no law demanding that you continue on that path.

If you backfill with common 7018 (assuming it's a good rod for wrought iron), it won't take any longer to even up the face than it will to join the tine to the body.  You're going to fill that void either way.  

So, if that's removed from the equation, the only thing left to consider is how you're going to deal with the hardy and pritchel holes.  With the tine in place, you're going to have a bear of a time drilling and filing to get a square hardy hold.  If you're doing straight weld, it's very simple because all you need to do is make a dam to stop yourself from welding into the void that's going to be the hole.  Very easy to do that with some fire brick.

Another idea I had was to flip the whole thing upside down when you get ready to weld.  Since heat rises, you could minimize the loss of temper in the face of the tine by keeping it in contact with the table.  Let all the heat go up into the main body, for the most part, while keeping what will become the face of the anvil as cool as possible. On a piece as thick as that tine is, you probably won't have any issues with softening.  That's my thinking, anyhow.

1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

but then I am friends with several folks in the local VFD

Sounds like it's reason to make some bottle openers and take them and a couple six packs of coke to the local vfd. That's what I'd do anyways.

Like several others, im watchin to see what happens.  

I have a gerry rigged the anvil to an engine stand. The batting material is insulation for a furnace door to try limiting heat migration into the engine stand. So here is the plan:

-Lay stand on its back and orient the anvil in the upright position and lay the tine piece on it.

-heat prodigeously with a large wand torch, bringing the tine to a minimum of 500 degrees, then tack weld the plate in place.

-lay engine stand back down, now that the anvil is horizontal simply stand over it and going from rear to front lay successive beads of weld. After a bead or two I will rotate the anvil to prevent any warpage from asymetrical heating. During this phase I'll monitor the temp of the tine and try keeping it below 800deg F. 

-Upon complete filling of the gap I'll try ignoring it for several hours until it is cool enough to handle, once it is cool I'll set the anvil on some fire brick and re-heat the top to between 700-800 deg to relieve some stress and then it's time to start grinding and shaping. 

We used a weed burner as a preheater last anvil repair day.  Also made a shroud around the anvil to help hold the heat in.   Doing the repair we were only preheating to 350 degF IIRC.

Biggest problem with getting the VFD involved is that you will probably end up with a bunch of folks who want to smith with you.  Of course I don't usually consider that a problem...I have also found out that at least in small towns and rural areas having all the firemen and cops know you by name as a nice person who does blacksmithing can circumvent a lot of issues...well worth a hand forged bottle opener donated to their raffle(s)

Hardee hole, en route.

I've got a big square file with some agressive teeth that will make it a little prettier.

Man you are keen

I've welded on a couple anvils. I welded one Trenton that was broke in half back together after I ground a pretty good bevel on it. Welded with 7018 and it seems kinda finicky. I had places where the weld just wanted to blow out and grab some porosity and some where it welded just like mild steel. I'm guess because of the impurities in the wrought iron is why it was acting that way. It's not bad at all. If your familiar with stick welding you'll be fine.

Looks to be what we would call a "grandson" job...

5 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Looks to be what we would call a "grandson" job...

I like it, but I'm a little way from fatherhood yet, let alone grandkids. For now the grunt work falls on my shoulders. Good thing the Pritchel holes will be easier. Should have it ready to weld by the weekend.

Very interesting. I am cheering for you!! 

Looking forward to seeing the end result.  Incredible how that anvil plate pealed off the anvil body.  

51 minutes ago, Matthew D said:

Looking forward to seeing the end result.  Incredible how that anvil plate pealed off the anvil body.  

"Pealed"? 

Well, if it doesn't have any rebound, that would make it a dead ringer.

23 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Well, if it doesn't have any rebound, that would make it a dead ringer.

Even  poor weld will probbly yeild rebound with this 1.6in thick plate, I get some bounce just whacking it on the floor.

Incredible?   Quality control issues, folks coming in drunk or hungover on Mondays are not *new* issues.

("Bond of Iron" mentions preferring to hire slave workers instead of irishmen as they didn't show up drunk...)

Got on the welder this morning, managed to get the new work surface attached but couldn't get very far because I kept blowing my 40amp breaker. Going to take it to my parents place next week and see about getting a better weld. No problems welding between the body and new top at least.

Got it done, there are most definitely slag inclusion aplenty but that tine is not coming off. I left it out to cool and will collect it in a day or two from the folks house as time allows. Pre-heated to about 350 and started welding. After chipping what I could of the slag from the recent weld I'd flip it for the next pass. 7018 rod might not be the best for this operation as the slag was pretty tenacious. I'll report back on if it rings or not, I think rebound is good because it bounced a hammer pretty satisfyingly when it was allowed to fall 8-10in driven by only its weight.

 

I hate to say it, but those welds look like bird poop.  Not one continuous bead/stringer in the lot.  I doubt very seriously you got any penetration.  Maybe the plate will hold for light forging.  7018 should be run uphill...don't know how you did yours.  Good luck.

Yeah, a professional welder I am not. I was running 160 amps for the interior welds between the plate and body about 110 amps for the exterior welds. I swirled my bead to try taking up more of the 1/2in gap that had to be filled. If I had it to do over I would reduce the gap to 3/8. The next phase is to grind everything even and pretty it up. If the face pops off I would be suprised, but it will probably hold me over until I find a better anvil now, it isn't officially a door-stop yet. 

Scooped it up on the way to work, it rings and rebounds nicely.

1 hour ago, haddockkl said:

Scooped it up on the way to work, it rings and rebounds nicely.

What's the rebound percentage? That is, if you drop a ball bearing from 10", how far back up does it bounce?

At least 25%, I got three bounces from one 8in drop, but it was sitting in my back seat, I'll report back when its on a solid surface and I can actually measure the rebound.

My advise is to use it with great vigor!  If it fails then you can try a better method.  More likely it will laugh at you and tell you to "bring it on!"

Thanks for sharing! What an ambitious anvil repair.