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Claydon Knot Table Lamps


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I have attached the pic of a basic Claydon Knot votive candle holder, along with pics of 2 table lamps that used Claydon Knots as the starting points.  The bases are all 1/2" square formed into a circle with 1/4" holes punched (treadle hammer).  The verticals are 1/4" round, formed on a Claydon Knot jig/bender...the verticals on the lamps were made pretty long with a leaf forged on the ends. The lower part of the verticals can be left straight or curved, as desired.  After the knots were assembled on the lamps the bottom of each vertical was back-welded at the bottom of the base ring.  With the base clamped to the top of my bench a whole lot of rosebud work followed, winding the stems back down through the knot, then winding the leaves in a random pattern (fire, pain and violence !!).  The scale was polished out with a small wire wheel on an air die grinder (lots of tiny little wire bits sticking in clothes and skin).  A short section of lamp thread is welded in for the lamp base to screw onto and a coat of satin acrylic enamel finishes things.  I doubt one can make and sell these profitably with the time/fuel gas needed (I use oxygen/propane for rosebud work), but they do have great "WOW" factor. 



DSCF9001 - Copy.JPG


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Arkie, Forming the "vines" isn't too hard if you keep the leaves a bit smaller than the opening in the top of the knot...you could always double them over, form the vines, then open up the leaves...see the next photo.

Vaughn, I'll try to dig up my knot jig and send you some photos and dimensions - it's pretty simple.  Assembling the knot for the first time is a bit tricky - you have to know the secret to get the last vertical in place.

BH, I'll ginn up a separate post for the coffee table...


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Vaughn, I found one of my knot jigs...this one is a piece of 1/4" plate, 14" square with two 1/2" pegs, 1 1/4" apart, on centers, welded in the middle and a few pieces of angle welded on the bottom so it can be clamped in a vise.  All you are doing is putting a dog-leg in the middle of the 1/4" round verticals.  Notice on the vertical that has a leaf on the end that the bottom half has any bow shape you may want in your final piece.  The bottom rings have 7, 8 or 9 1/4" holes punched in and back-drilled a bit to facilitate welding the ends of the verticals to the base.  As you assemble the verticals you may find that you need to "tweak" the angles a bit to get a proper fit.  Once you get the verticals linked together around the piece you will be holding the final vertical, wondering how it will get into place...invert that last piece and "weave" it into place by rotating it in 180 degrees, achieving the final assembly.  The next challenge is to hold everything in proper alignment while you backweld around the bottoms of the verticals...I have used a metal funnel sticking up thru the bottom several times - your results, and methods, may vary.  Good luck !!





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