Frosty Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 1 hour ago, AdamG said: Yeah. My buddy gave me an industrial ball bearing that must be 2.5" in diameter... I daren't. It's crying out to be a knife or three. I figure it should weigh around 2.3lbs. a couple few blades then. make a nice ball stake or a pair of mushroom stakes. It's make a good die to make a cup swage, drive it shallow for a turning hammer swage. It might not bake such good blades on second thought, aren't large bearings lower carbon steel and case hardened? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will52100 Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 One possibility that has ben mentioned, it may just be grinding burs that are planishing down Depending on the grit and how hard and fast it was ground, the burs could be quite soft from the heat of grinding and there tiny cross section while the anvil surface proper could be quite hard. If that is the case it should be nearly impossible to measure the dent or mark as it's basically just planishing the "fuzz' on the surface. If you miss with my Refflinghaus anvil you'd better not have your head in the way or your going to eat the hammer. I have a Peddinghaus hammer and it won't mark it. I checked the hardness with a file set and best as I can tell the hardness varies from 59-61 rockwell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamG Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 10 hours ago, Frosty said: It's crying out to be a knife or three. I figure it should weigh around 2.3lbs. a couple few blades then. make a nice ball stake or a pair of mushroom stakes. It's make a good die to make a cup swage, drive it shallow for a turning hammer swage. It might not bake such good blades on second thought, aren't large bearings lower carbon steel and case hardened? Frosty The Lucky. I'm not sure. I thought they were all 52100. It's a bit big for my equipment right now... don't even have tongs to handle a sphere that size, but I think I would weld on some rebar anyway. I'm only half-way through my move, so it will be a while till I get around to the fun stuff. Another month at least (bathrooms are torn out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will52100 Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Easy way to tell, pre-heat and weld a handle on, bring up to forging temp, no hotter than 1625 deg. F., and hammer on it for a couple of hours. If at the end of a couple of hours it's a slightly squarish ball, then it's likely it's 52100. If it's a nice square or even drawn out, then it's something else. It's subject to be 52100, but it could also be 440c, or any variation of steel out there. Only way to really know is forge out a blade and heat treat it and test it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 No need to spend a couple of hours hammering on it; heat to the correct temp for 52100 and hit with a 6# hammer---if it laughs at you it's 52100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will52100 Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Yup, 52100 is the reason I have a power hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamG Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 I've got too many projects going at once. New anvil needs a base. Need to move in. Need a chimney. Need a foot pedal and a bit more welding on my WIP power hammer. Got more ambition than time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Before you forge it into something else make a swage or two. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 On 6/7/2016 at 11:02 PM, bigb said: Going to follow this thread as the old mouse Hole I bought last month seems to have a soft face as well, shows hammer dents from just rebound testing like yours. On an old anvil, that could be either from an improperly hardened steel or from having the steel face missing entirely. The wrought iron body gives good rebound, but isn't hard enough to resist denting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamG Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 This video gives an idea... https://youtu.be/VWlnad-Vye4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 thats a dead anvil in the video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Yep, it's dead allright....my wood floor has more rebound than that anvil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 You didn't need to drop the bearing that many times, it's not like it's anvil CPR it's dead. Did that big honking bearing dent the face? Don't drop it from higher or it will. I pack a 3/8" bearing ball when I'm yard, garage, etc. saling in case I find an anvil. Have you tried carrying that big bearing around in your pocket? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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