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170# Trenton Anvil Questions


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Im looking into buying my first anvil and have no idea what to look for in terms of quality or condition. I have a chance to buy this 170# trenton anvil for 350 obo. Can anyone tell me what its worth and what shape its in? I have not seen it in person and this is the only photo availible.

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Sorry for lack of info. Im in Maine and there arent a whole lot of anvils for sale around here. When you say soft what do you mean? Im a disabled vet looking to take up blacksmithing as a hobby for something to do. I have zero experience or knowledge of blacksmithing or the tools that go along with it so any info and advice is greatly appreciated.

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It looks good for the price. I've used a 250# Trenton for 35 years, and I like it. Trenton was one of the trusted manufacturers of anvils in the U.S. Doug Wilson is a smith in Little Deer Isle and the New England School of Metalwork is in Maine. They'd probably tell you the same as I did.

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Anvils that have been in a fire can be "soft" as they can loose their heat treatment. You can do a rebound test on the anvil in question to tell you a lot about that particular anvil. Myself, I've always liked the lines of Trenton anvils and I'd happily pay that if it is in good condition.

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Look up the ball bearing test though a lot of loose rust on the face could throw it off a bit.  Tapping it with a ball peen hammer will work it should bounce the hammer back up at you rather than a thud.  Trenton's are ringing anvils and that one sitting loose should TING with a hammer tap.  For that area a good price and may disappear FAST unless you have a solid deal on it NOW!

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Get it before its gone. I have a hundered pound Trenton and love it!

                                                                                       Littleblacksmith 

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Well i went to look at the anvil today but i didnt have a ball bearing or ball peen hammer. I used a framing hammer and i could hear a ring all over but the tone was lighter in the middle on the face and on the side of the anvil. There was alot of surface rust and pitting. He said he would take 300 and hold on to it for me while i did more research on it. 

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Also he believes its a trenton but not sure, he found it burried in his back yard.

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Main, usable condition, under $2 a pound---as long as it had some bounce it's a user as mentioned elsewhere forging hot steel on the face will smooth out and polish out rust pitting.  You can see the thickness of the hardened face on the side and so see WHY you don't want to grind or mill on it.

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Yes the location of the serial number and the caplet indentation on the bottom and the conformation will pretty much nail it down.  I'd have to double check it in AinA  when I get home from work as my copy is in a different country right now...

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I'd use a twisted cup wheel on my LARGE angle grinder and wear a face shield to protect my eyes and face mask to protect my lungs and hearing protectors to protect my ears. Keep everyone else away whilst cleaning it. Forgot to mention a leather apron to deflect thrown wires too!

If you have a friend with a sand blaster that would work too.

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l.Wire brushing is a good way to remove rust .  But heavy grinding can ruin the tool. After wire brushing consider an electrolysis bath to remove the residual rust or help loosen the crud.

There are some excellent threads on electrolysis on this site, I know because I have spent a good deal of time studying them.

Best of luck and success.

SLAG.

Edited by SLAG
clarification
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