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Making a micro burner on the cheap


Mikey98118

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Is old Doc Frankenburner going to lower his standards? Not hardly! But a hot-rod can  stand to do without  fancy trimmings, as long as it  screams, right? Thinking back over recent months, there has been a steady trickle of guys looking for a way to heat up every thing from a Two Brick forge to a coffee-can furnace with one kind of small hand torch or another. And some of us have recommended various schemes to try to and help them get buy with the way they want to go, despite those torches not being quite up to doing the task without ending up in danger of overheating.

So, why not face it head on, and forget all about half measures? It's time to come up with a conversion on a brass body canister-mount  propane torch to use a stainless steel burner head, that can be properly mounted on a miniature forge or casting furnace, and get more than hot enough to do whatever is wanted before that 16 oz. canister freezes up.

Simple Bernz-O-matic style canister-mount propane torches are available on eBay for about $15 shipped; they are about the same through Amazon.com. Such torches all have different threading and outside diameters on the final section of brass tubing (the one with the air holes), depending on make; I have several of them on order from eBay. Upon delivery I will start building burners from them. Anyone who wants to build along with me may want to start buy choosing out a torch.

These torches can also become much more powerful had held torches, and can be mounted on propane cylinders with a couple of additional fittings, once you get around to it.

 
 

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This is my 1/2" T burner in Parts in the first picture, running in the third.The forge is around 90 cubic inches. @teenylittlemetalguy Do you have pictures of your T and did you use a reducing T? (I needed a reducing fitting from 3/4 to 1/.2, I flared the transition between the mixing tube and the fitting) It is not exactly a build along but more details can be found in the following thread where everybody has been a great help.Thread.

IMG_20160226_000658.thumb.jpg.3b894bcc35IMG_20160227_234716.thumb.jpg.7100db242fIMG-20160408-WA0015.thumb.jpeg.c7cccd721

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I did not use a reducer but people do it and it works. here is a picture of how I do it.  I adapted mine to run on a flexible hose. I prefer my burners on the bottom pointing up or on the side so I don't have to worry about the supply getting hot. 

I am also attaching Frosty's instructions for anyone that missed it. 

 

Frosty burner.jpg

T Burner Directions finished.pdf

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45 minutes ago, Mbmul175 said:

What are the inside dimensions of the forge ?

 

What is your hourly gas consumption with this forge ?

 

2-1/8" hole saw is what I used to cut the bricks and make the interior. 

Hourly consumption? never bothered to calculate it.  a small propane tank lasts a very long time. I have the .025" tip in there and typically run 2-5 lbs of pressure and 8 lbs for welding. 

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5 minutes ago, Mbmul175 said:

Thanks, but how wide and deep is the interior ? Roughly ...

 

It is a straight hole 2-1/8" wide and extends the entire length of the bricks (9") . With this style to run right it must be a pass through design otherwise it won't burn complete. I prop a brick near the back door but leave it slightly ajar to help keep the heat in. but it runs just as well with nothing covering the back opening. 

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Torch parts for a canister mount torch conversion

We will be using the simplest form of an increasingly more sophisticated heating tool. Manufacturers constantly compete with each other to see who can sucker more money from gullible costumers for extraneous parts, which are not needed, and which break down in short order; you want to avoid such gilded lilies. The torch you buy shouldn’t cost more than $15 with shipping included; it should be manual light, with a simple needle valve; it should not feature electronic ignition or a built in regulator.

These torches are mostly import items. Because of their divers sources, you cannot count on threading, or internal parts such as gas jets to match between them, even though the  torch may appear identical. Parts on he same name brands will also change over time, which is why their numbers vary.

You want a torch that is easy to modify, and that means choosing one with a fat neck, so that it has a convenient size gas jet to change over. The Craftsman WT2201; the BernzOmatic Propane TX-9, 329207; and the JT680 019110Jumbo Flame Head; the Firepower P-10.

While any of these models will serve, my favorite candidate by far is the Firepower P-10 ; it is distinguished from most other models by the cooling fins on its head (a head is a combination of mixing tube and flame nozzle); its gas jet is the largest of the group, making it the easiest to drill, and it features an “O” ring for hassle free sealing of fuel gas.

Note: BernzOmatic JT680 019110 Jumbo Flame Torch Head also has cooling fins, but does not have the same desirable gas jet: http://firepoweronline.com/product/name-26/

Although I’ve seen prices as high as $43 and shipping for the Firepower P-10, mine cost $14 with free shipping from eBay.

The Firepower P-10 is also available from Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Firepower-0387-0470-AirFuel-PencilTip-Propane/dp/B007QV0HZE

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://www.autobodydepot.com/VCT-0387-0470_3.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBE

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=FIR0387-0470&source=froogle&kw=FIR0387-0470&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBEiQAfcPiBSZA_rDKZ135yIiuxzR1cxk_5Ebtic2DsBAeJ0MvFwYaAilQ8P8HAQ

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: https://shopping.yahoo.com/1378015048-0387-0470-p-10-pencil-flame-propane-torch/?bfr=50.0

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://cdn.opentip.com/Tools-Home-Improvement/Firepower-Fr-Propane-Torch-Pencil-Flame-p-6227573.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBEiQAfcPiBfCnTUx3owlePIiKikoai8W2XXuvpz6aM3KZlUxhyAEaAqgV8P8HAQ

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/firepower-manual-light-propane-pencil-tip torch/A-p8628067e

Caution: Until and unless its gas jet is modified, this kind of torch (canister mount) must use full cylinder pressure, and any hose kit attached to them must be rated for full cylinder pressure also. Nor can any adjustable regulator be used on them while the old gas jet remains; they can only use their needle valves for gas flow adjustment.               

Propane Hook-Up Hose Kit consist of a ten foot Hose, with  a fitting on one end that screws onto any appliance (such as canister mount torches) that normally are placed on a 1-Lb. disposable propane cylinder, and has a POL  fitting on its other end to mount on a refillable propane tank:  http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=18154

Worthington Cylinders 309336 Universal Torch Extension Hose Kit  has a 59" fiber reinforced hose (flexible), with Compressed Gas Association standard torch connections for non-refillible canisters; one female connestion to fit onto the torch, and a male connection with a built in needle vale to fit into the canister: http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-Cylinders-309336-Universal-Extension/dp/B002FXGLV2/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0AWGCZFQTQWNE4WCC04V

                   

Propane Tank POL to 1/4 in. MPT fitting can be used to hook up to propane hose with appliance fittings and refillable cylinder: http://www.bestmaterials.c/dtail.aspx?ID=15423

 

Parts for miniature burners from scratch

Larry Zoeller first designed his Modified Side-arm burner by changing out a plain “Tee” fitting” with a Ward reducing Tee; then came up with his “Z” burner, which he found to be hotter than the Modified Side-arm, by changing out the Ward reducing Tee with a “Wye” fitting; but he also only sells his “Z” burner in the 3/4” size. Yet Wye fittings are available in a wide range of sizes, leaving the  opportunity to build this burner in miniature sizes wide open.  

McMaster Carr  stocks a variety  of the Wye" pipe fitting that Modified Side-arm burners require; it's available from then in every size you'd need to build whatever burner size you want-- even down to a 3/8" burner:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-fittings/=12l7rmu

McMaster Carr also  stocks a variety  of the “T" pipe fittings; it's available in every size you'd need to build whatever burner size you want-- even down to a 3/8" burners in standard “T" fittings and in reducer tees: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-fittings/=12l6sub

It seems to be established that a 1/2" Tee burner can be turned down enough to comfortably heat a volume as ;low 50 to 60 cu/in.

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Changing over the gas jet

The gas jet presently has a tiny center hole; if you want to use a Luer Lock dispenser needle it must be drilled out for 10-32 thread. A Luer Lock hub, with a male 10-32 connection will be screwed into it, and will mount a Luer Lock dispenser needle.

    First, the head from the P-10 torch is unscrewed, followed by the gas jet. The jet is a drilled octagon nut, which can be center punched by a prick punch or sharpened nail. Next the jet is placed in a drill vise, and then holed with a #21 numbered bit. Then, the hole is threaded by a 10-32 starting tap; a plug tap will serve, because it is only threading into brass. Clean off all burrs from threading, and blow the part clean of debris. Put a drop of thread locker on the connection’s thread, and then screw it into the hole.

    The dispenser needle has to be cut down to 1” length. Use a friction blade or fine tooth file to cut it just beyond the 1” mark, and sand back even with it on #300 emery cloth (use a drop of water and a circular motion). Clean out internal burrs with a round file from a set of torch tip cleaners. Blow away internal debris with air, and mount the needle on the hub.

    Alternatively, the gas jet from the P-10 torch and almost all other gas jets can be removed,  drilled, and silver brazed, in order to set a capillary tube in place directly within it. While this involves more work, do to silver brazing, it is more tolerant about drill alignment, as the tube can be easily bent after the jet is screwed back into the goose neck, if your hole wasn’t drilled quite parallel.

    But supposing, you completely trash the gas jet, or decide for some other reason to thread directly into the goose neck. Then, before you do anything else, close the valve and scuff cotton fiber (ex. Que tip) inside the goose neck to prevent debris from entering the valve body. Once all work is done, turn the threaded area on end and tap out loose debris; then insert a long slender screw into the cotton wad (keeping the goose neck upside down), and draw out the cotton and the rest of the debris; tap the part again. Next, use a couple of puffs from the canister to blow out the part, making certain to do this out of doors and well away from all ignition sources. The point of all this care is to prevent metal shavings from damaging the valve or clogging the new gas jet afterward.

    Most existing gas jet contains a spongy looking section, which this is meant to act as a filter; unfortunately it ends up doing a better job as a clot. Drill completely through the “sponge”; it isn’t of any value.

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Building Miniature Burners from Canister-mount Propane Torches

 

Introduction

Why construct miniature burners at all? There aren’t a lot of people desiring a miniature forge or casting furnace. But, there are plenty of people who want to get more heat from air-fuel torches than is available from commercial models. In the face of rising energy prices, many more people are looking to maximize equipment efficiency as much as possible.

    Naturally aspirated burners have large turn-down ranges. So, it would seem that a wide selection of burner sizes isn’t needed to accommodate heating equipment; and so far as it goes, that’s true. But, efficiency is about more than how well fuel burns.

    There is another factor to getter control of, and that’s the burner’s exhaust. It’s easy to see what goes wrong when there is too much or too little exhaust capacity available. It gets more devious trying to understand what goes right when you get superb control of the equipment’s exhaust velocity. That's because doing so involves balancing two disparate combustion issues; they are flame and exhaust speeds. Fast flames burn hot, but fast exhaust waste heat.

    The reason burners are aimed on a tangent in compact heating equipment is to force their combustion gasses to swirl around in its interior, creating a longer distance from burner to exit. A longer exhaust path increases the gases amount of "hang time.” That seems quite obvious doesn't it? What isn't so obvious is that most of that increased time isn't made by the gases running a little farther at a given velocity; it’s provided through a considerable drop in velocity over that distance. Two or three smaller flames will decelerate much faster than a single large flame.

    The smaller flames of a pair of 1/2" burners will drop velocity faster than a single 3/4" burner on a five gallon forge, increasing efficiency; because they can be turned up hotter without producing a tongue of fire out of the exhaust port. But, what about the guy who wants to build a two gallon knife maker's forge? He is going to need two 3/8" burners to do the same trick. The guy how wants to forge hand tools in a one gallon forge is going to need two 1/4" burners to do so efficiently.

 

Safety

Before igniting, a new torch (or one which hasn’t been used for some time), it is prudent to conduct a leak test; this should take place out of doors and away from all ignition sources. Before beginning the test, fully close the torch’s fuel valve. Then attach the torch to a fuel canister. Check all connections with soapy water. If bubbles are observed, the torch must be repaired or replaced. After adding hoses and regulators to a burner system, the same tests should be conducted. Canisters (non-refillable gas cylinders) should also be detached out of doors, and away from ignition sources; hand tighten them only. Overtightening canisters can damage seals, causing leaks.

    A canister mounted torch is ignited with its canister placing up in the vertical positon, and its head (AKA tip) facing away from you. It is safest to use flint striker to light your torch, and to use little more than the minimum opening of the fuel valve until the torch head has a moment or two to heat up.

    If a canister is tipped far enough out of the vertical position, liquid will enter the very small hole in its gas jet and is prone to snuff the flame; leaving propane gas accumulating in the area. When a larger hole in a modified gas jet is subjected to liquid propane, a dangerously large yellow flame is more likely to result. If the torch does go out, the liquid will then expand into a large cloud of flammable gas, ready to explode.     One-pound propane and propylene canisters are rated as non-refillable; doing so can degrade the seals on its valve, causing it to leak flammable gas.

    Canisters are meant to be disposed of in accordance to local ordinances. Check with you municipality for approved procedures. Don’t drop or otherwise damage these canisters; store them away from dwellings; keep them out of the reach of children. Do not store them in direct sunlight or above 120 degrees Fahrenheit temperatures.

    Always turn the gas off before setting the torch down.

 

 

Torch parts

 

We will be using the simplest form of an increasingly sophisticated heating tool to provide much of our parts. Manufacturers constantly compete with each other to see who can provide more extraneous parts (which will break down in short order); avoid such gilded lilies. The torch you buy shouldn’t cost more than $15 with shipping included; it should be manual light, with a simple needle valve.

    These torches are mostly import items. Because of their divers sources, you cannot count on threading, or internal parts (such as gas jets) to match between them, even though the torch may appear identical. Parts on the same name brands will also change over time, which is why their serial numbers vary.

    You want a torch that is easy to modify, which means choosing one with a large diameter goose neck; a provide convenient size gas jets to change over:

 The Craftsman WT2201; the BernzOmatic Propane TX-9, 329207; and the JT680 019110Jumbo Flame Head; the Firepower P-10 are good examples.

    While any of these models will serve, my favorite candidate by far is the Firepower P-10 ; it is distinguished from most other models by the cooling fins on its head. A head () is a combination of mixing tube and flame nozzle); its gas jet is the largest of the group, making it the easiest to drill, and it features an “O” ring for hassle free sealing of fuel gas.

 

Note: BernzOmatic JT680 019110 Jumbo Flame Torch Head also has cooling fins, but does not have the same desirable gas jet: http://firepoweronline.com/product/name-26/

 

Although I’ve seen prices as high as $43 and shipping for the Firepower P-10, mine cost $14 with free shipping from eBay.

 

The Firepower P-10 is also available from Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Firepower-0387-0470-AirFuel-PencilTip-Propane/dp/B007QV0HZE

 

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://www.autobodydepot.com/VCT-0387-0470_3.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBE

 

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=FIR0387-0470&source=froogle&kw=FIR0387-0470&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBEiQAfcPiBSZA_rDKZ135yIiuxzR1cxk_5Ebtic2DsBAeJ0MvFwYaAilQ8P8HAQ

 

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: https://shopping.yahoo.com/1378015048-0387-0470-p-10-pencil-flame-propane-torch/?bfr=50.0

 

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://cdn.opentip.com/Tools-Home-Improvement/Firepower-Fr-Propane-Torch-Pencil-Flame-p-6227573.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBEiQAfcPiBfCnTUx3owlePIiKikoai8W2XXuvpz6aM3KZlUxhyAEaAqgV8P8HAQ

 

The Firepower P-10 is also available at: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/firepower-manual-light-propane-pencil-tip torch/A-p8628067e

 

Caution: Until and unless its gas jet is modified, this kind of torch (canister mount) must use full cylinder pressure, and any hose kit attached to them must be rated for full cylinder pressure also. Nor can any adjustable regulator be used on them while the old gas jet remains; they can only use their needle valves for gas flow adjustment.              

 

Propane Hook-Up Hose Kit consist of a ten foot Hose, with  a fitting on one end that screws onto any appliance (such as canister mount torches) that normally are placed on a 1-Lb. disposable propane cylinder, and has a POL  fitting on its other end to mount on a refillable propane tank:  http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=18154

 

Worthington Cylinders 309336 Universal Torch Extension Hose Kit  has a 59" fiber reinforced hose (flexible), with Compressed Gas Association standard torch connections for non-refillable canisters; one female connestion to fit onto the torch, and a male connection with a built in needle vale to fit into the canister: http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-Cylinders-309336-Universal-Extension/dp/B002FXGLV2/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0AWGCZFQTQWNE4WCC04V

 

                  

 

Propane Tank POL to 1/4 in. MPT fitting can be used to hook up to propane hose with appliance fittings and refillable cylinder: http://www.bestmaterials.c/dtail.aspx?ID=15423

 

 

Changing over the gas jet

 

The gas jet presently has a tiny center hole; if you want to use a Luer Lock dispenser needle it must be drilled out for 10-32 thread. A Luer Lock hub, with a male 10-32 connection will be screwed into it, and will mount a Luer Lock dispenser needle.

    First, the head from the P-10 torch is unscrewed, followed by the gas jet. The jet is a drilled octagon nut, which can be center punched by a prick punch or sharpened nail. Next the jet is placed in a drill vise, and then holed with a #21 numbered bit. Then, the hole is threaded by a 10-32 starting tap; a plug tap will serve, because it is only threading into brass. Clean off all burrs from threading, and blow the part clean of debris. Put a drop of thread locker on the connection’s thread, and then screw it into the hole.

    The dispenser needle has to be cut down to 1” length. Use a friction blade or fine tooth file to cut it just beyond the 1” mark, and sand back even with it on #300 emery cloth (use a drop of water and a circular motion). Clean out internal burrs with a round file from a set of torch tip cleaners. Blow away internal debris with air, and mount the needle on the hub.

    Alternatively, the gas jet from the P-10 torch and almost all other gas jets can be removed,  drilled, and silver brazed, in order to set a capillary tube in place directly within it. While this involves more work, do to silver brazing, it is more tolerant about drill alignment, as the tube can be easily bent after the jet is screwed back into the goose neck, if your hole wasn’t drilled quite parallel.

    But supposing, you completely trash the gas jet, or decide for some other reason to thread directly into the goose neck. Then, before you do anything else, close the valve and scuff cotton fiber (ex. Que tip) inside the goose neck to prevent debris from entering the valve body. Once all work is done, turn the threaded area on end and tap out loose debris; then insert a long slender screw into the cotton wad (keeping the goose neck upside down), and draw out the cotton and the rest of the debris; tap the part again. Next, use a couple of puffs from the canister to blow out the part, making certain to do this out of doors and well away from all ignition sources. The point of all this care is to prevent metal shavings from damaging the valve or clogging the new gas jet afterward.

    Most existing gas jet contains a spongy looking section, which this is meant to act as a filter; unfortunately it ends up doing a better job as a clot. Drill completely through the “sponge”; it isn’t of any value.

 

Building the 3/8-inch mixing tube and its flame nozzle

 

Your tubing is ordered in sizes that must be power sanded; this is no accident. All tubing has plus or minus tolerances, and if you order your tube in sizes that seem to fit more exactly, those tolerances can leave you with sloppy fits; it’s better to do a little extra power sanding, instead. If you can’t find the right tubing available locally, I recommend Onlinemetals.com.  

  

Materials list

(1) A 0.019” orifice size stainless steel dispensing needle with a metal Luer-lock hub (base) is available from McMaster-Carr (item #75165A125). Dispensing tips are also available through eBay, and Amazon.com. Remember it that is the 0.019” orifice size you want; not a particular gauge size. Because of differing wall thicknesses offered, gauge sizes are an unreliable indication of orifice size, which can vary up to 0.003”; that’s a lot of difference in an accelerator this small. If you have trouble finding the preferred orifice diameter, needles up to 022” will work.

 

(2) Male 10-32 UNF  Luer-lock adaptor fitting (AKAhub); item #10-32 51465K151 ($6.15): http://www.mcmaster.com/#luer-lock-tube-fittings/=12trf11 Luer lock adapters are also available on eBay, from Vita Needle, and from Zoro Tools. All these adaptors have the same body diameter (approximately 3/8”), which is true of most Luer-lock adaptors (including all adapters listed here), BUT IT’S NOT TRUE FOR ALL ADAPTERS EVERYWHERE, so keep that in mind when ordering from other sources.

 

(3) The internal doubler tube for this burner is cut from the threaded end of the torch’s head, and is pressed fit in position on the rear end of the mixing tube. If you over sand the end of the mixing tube, than you must silver braze that part in place, or else slit the mixing tube so that it can flex, and then hold the thread doubler in place with a 1/2” worm drive clamp.

 

(4) The mixing tube is a 6” long piece of #316 seamless stainless steel tube of 0.625” O.D. (six-hundred and twenty-five thousandths of an inch outside diameter), by 0.495" I.D. (four-hundred and ninety-five thousandths of an inch inside diameter) stainless steel tube, to be cut from a 10” to 12” random length or cut to length: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12950&step=4&showunits=inches&id=902&top_cat=1 While I recommend stainless tube, mild steel can be substituted for this part.

 

(5) The flame nozzle spacer ring is a 0.750” O.D. by 0.620” I.D. by 1/2” long piece of seamless #316 stainless steel tube cut from a 10” to 12” random length, or cut to length; it will require power sanding to remove approximately 0.005” of material from its inner surface to make a sliding fit on the mixing tube. While I recommend stainless tube, mild steel can be substituted for this part: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12953&step=4&showunits=inches&id=902&top_cat=1

 

(6) The choke sleeve is a 0.750” O.D. by 0.620” I.D. by 2-1/4” long #316 seamless stainless steel tube cut from the same random length of material as part 5; it will require power sanding to remove approximately 0.005” of material from its inner surface. While I recommend stainless tube, mild steel can be substituted for this part: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12953&step=4&showunits=inches&id=902&top_cat=1

 

(7) The flame nozzle is a 0.875” O.D. by 0.745” I.D. by 2” long piece of #316 seamless stainless steel tube cut from a 10” to 12” random length, or cut to fit; you will need to sand the inside to achieve a press fit with the spacer ring. You may want to cut parts for an extra flame nozzle and spacer ring, to keep on hand in case you wear out the first flame nozzle. Mild steel cannot be substituted for stainless tube on this part: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12955&step=4&showunits=inches&id=902&top_cat=1    

 

(8) 1/2 x 1/2-inch steel angle, about 4-inches long, cut from a 10” to 12” random length; this is used as a layout tool, allowing you to scribe lines parallel to the tubing axis, by using it as a straight edge; it is listed in this section so that you can order it at the same time as your tubing. You will want to order all these parts together, to reduce your shipping costs

.

(9) #10-24 thumb screw (shortest length you can find), two flat washers, and two hex nuts. What you will not find is #10-28 thread size in a thumbscrew.  #10-24 thread is about the smallest you will find a thumbscrew in, and will call for a different tap than you use on the set screws. Because you must buy a different tap anyway, you may use any thumbscrew up to 3/16”, and still make it work on this burner. Although I recommend the smallest size you can find, for the sake of an easier fit-up.

 

(10) Seven #10-28 by 3/8” long stainless steel set screws

 

(11) A 3/8” hex bolt for a layout aid. You should take the the mixing tube with you when choosing the bolt, to get the closest match to it.

 

Accelerators are the “heart” of modern jet ejector style gas burners. A hot, efficient, gas flame depends on adequate gas and air mixing, but it also depends on a fast flow of the gas/air mixture down the burner’s tubular body. Previously, small holes were drilled into  the side of cross pipes, and compressed fuel gas was forced through them, creating a weak disorganized gas stream. The low pressure area caused by such a stream was barely able to entrain sufficient air to create a neutral flame. Extending that hole into a tube shaped orifice produces a fast compact gas stream, from which all the rest of the burner’s performance springs.

    MIG welding contact tips can be used to provide convenient low cost orifices for larger burners, but capillary tubing is the key to building efficient burners in small sizes. The most convenient way to attain that tubing is in the form of blunt tip dispensing needles, which can be mounted on their own adaptors, and so parts one (the dispensing needle) and two (the Luer-lock adaptor) are employed. Heavy wall stainless steel capillary tube (AKA gauge tube) only comes in very limited orifice choices (ex. 0.010”, 0.020”, 0.030”). To get a sufficient variety of orifice sizes, you must employ stainless steel needles with threaded or Luer-lock style hubs (bases); not sharp hypodermic needles, but blunt tip dispensing needles.

 

Step one: Preparing the mixing tube. Begin by cutting the mixing tube (part four) to length. Square up and deburr both of its ends. The mixing tube is 6” long, and the doubler tube is going to end up about 1/2” long. The doubler tube will be cut off of the last 1/2” of the old torch head (the threaded section), only after it is press fit into the sanded end of the mixing tube. Next, power sand one end of the mixing tube until it will accept the doubler tube in a press fit. Remember that tubing isn’t perfectly round, so you will get the best fit with the least work, by rotating the parts together to find the place where these two parts are closest to the same shape; stop here for now

Step two: Building and mounting the sliding choke assembly. The choke assembly consists of a 2” long piece 0.750” O.D. by 0.620” I.D. #316 seamless stainless steel tube cut from the same random length (10” to 12”) of material as part 5 (the flame nozzle spacer ring); it will require power sanding to remove approximately 0.005” of material from its inner surface; it also includes the thumbscrew, two hex nuts, two flat washers; and the mixing tube. The choke sleeve will slide back and forth on the mixing tube, while being kept from rotating by the thumbscrew, which also locks it in place over the air openings.  During this phase of the torch conversion it will be used as a layout aid.

    Cut the 2” long sleeve to length and deburr it. Scribe a single linear line down the length of the sleeve using the angle iron as a steady rest. Scribe crossing lines at 1/4” in from each end of the sleeve, and then center punch the marks.      

    Drill 1/8” pilot holes, and then enlarge the holes to whatever call out size you’re using for the thumbscrew. You can now scribe lines between the outsides of the two holes and cut away all material inside them with a cutoff disk mounted in a rotary hand tool (deliberately stay inside the lines and finish file up to the lines afterward). File off all internal and external burrs, and any rough places, smoothing the walls into line with the holes, so the finished slot will slide smoothly back and forth past the thumbscrew.

    Power sand the inside of the choke sleeve’s whole length, while occasionally testing with the sleeve for a good sliding fit on the mixing tube; don’t forget to rotate the two parts to establish where they fit together best and ink mark that place on the mixing tube.

    Slide the choke sleeve into position on the mixing tube, 1/2” from the same end that will hold the threaded doubler tube, and rotate it until the slot slides freely on the mixing tube. Ink mark the forward end of the slot. Slide the sleeve out of the way and center punch, drill, and thread a hole for the thumbscrew over that ink mark. File off all burrs from the inside and outside faces of the threaded hole.

    Drilling and tapping thread into stainless steel creates burrs and deformation in the tube wall, which must then be power sanded until the choke sleeve slips freely into position over the hole; doing so deforms the thread ends a little, so that they must be chased with the tap until the screw turns freely in its hole. Chasing the thread (running the tap back over existing thread) can create further burrs, so that you must repeat each process until all parts move freely in their places.

    Run a hex nut all the way up the thumbscrew; slide two flat washers on it, and screw a second nut up the thread until it locks in place against the washers. Cut off and power sand the thumbscrew thread flat against the second nut; then sand both thread and nut down to 3/16” thickness. Eliminate one of the washers and file the end of the thread to remove any burr. Leave the first nut and one washer on the thumbscrew, and use it to hold the choke sleeve in place on the mixing tube.

Step three: Laying out the three air openings. Lock the choke sleeve in position 9/16” from the end of the mixing tube, and scribe mark a circle all the way around the tube. Next, move the end of the choke sleeve to 1-9/16” from the end, lock it into place, and scribe mark a second line.       Use the center line on the choke sleeve to transfer a mark  to the end of the mixing tube. Slide back the sleeve, and use the angle iron, and scribe a 1/4” long line from the end of the tube, in line with the center of the thumbscrew hole. Remove the thumbscrew assembly and choke sleeve from the mixing tube.                                                                                      

    Scribe a line in the center of one of the hex bolt’s six flats. Slip the bolt into the mixing tube’s end, and align the center line on its flat over the thumbscrew hole, using the 1/4” long line on the mixing tube, Gently lock the bolt in position with the thumbscrew.

    While gently locking and unlocking the bolt with the thumbscrew, rotate a hex point 1/16” to the right of the its present point. Mark your first three points for linear air opening lines on every other hex point. By rotating the same hex point 1/8” back to the left of this the first point, you can mark your second set of linear lines at every other three hex points; double check them against each other. You should now have three equal wide spaces designated, with three equal narrow spaces between them; the wide spaces are for air openings; the three narrow spaces between them are for ribs that are to be left between the air openings. Remove the hex bolt and thumbscrew.

    Using your angle iron as a steady rest, line up on each of the six marks in turn, and scribe a line extending the mixing tube between each of the two circles. Next run two ink lines diagonally between all four corners of each air opening. Double check to make sure you haven’t accidentally extended a line onto a rib area. Drill small holes well inside every corner of each air opening, and then use cutoff wheels inside of all four scribed lines on each air opening, removing excess material and cleaning up the openings with jeweler’s files. Deburr the rectangular openings inside and out.

    Bevel the outside face of the rear of ear sides of each air opening on their exteriors, so that the bevel’s knife edges are on the mixing tube wall’s inner surface. Next, bevel the forward side of each air opening on their interior faces, so that each bevel’s knife edge is on the mixing tube wall’s outer surface. Clean up all burrs and file every corner on all three air openings as close to square as you can make them.   

    It is recommended that you employ a tapered diamond coated rotary file to bevel the forward and rear sides of your air intakes (openings); they don’t produce those troublesome needle chips that carbide rotary files leave. They also cut slow enough to keep you out of trouble (they won’t leave gouges, catch on the work surface, or fling your tool about), but are still fast enough to make the job easy.

Step four: Mounting the threaded insert. It is now that the preparations you began in step one will be completed. If, you have the mixing tube sanded out to make a successful press fit, then enter the threaded end of the old head from the torch, and gently tap it into the mixing tube until you are just past its threaded portion. Cut off the remainder of the head, deburr the brass part, and blow out all debris from the mixing tube.

    If you have over sanded the mixing tube, you must decide whether to silver braze the threaded head in place, or to cut a 3/4” slit in the mixing tube, to allow it to flex. Then, deburr and clean the slit, puch the head in place, and tighten down a worm gear screw clamp to hold it in position.

    If you decide to silver braze the part in place, drill and deburr three small holes; they are equally spaced around the area of the mixing tube that will intersect the center of the threaded area on the doubler tube (about 1/4” from the tube’s end). Use the holes to drip a small drop of brazing wire through, in order to help avoid getting any metal on the thread.

Step five: Cutting the accelerator needle to length. The dispenser needle is mounted on a male Luer-lock adapter with a clockwise twist (about one-quarter turn). The adapter has a male 10-32 threaded fitting; which is threaded into a #21 hole, which is first drilled all the way through the gas jet.  

     The needle, adapter, and gas jet must be screwed into the goose neck (use a drop of fuel rated thread sealant or fuel rated Teflon tape); The whole assembly must then be screwed into the mixing tube. You now need to ink mark a spot about 1/4” back of an air opening’s forward edge. Then, remove the accelerator assembly, and cut the needle off at the ink mark with a fine grit friction cutoff disk. Then, sand its end with #300 grit emery cloth, or sanding paper. Next, clean out internal burrs with a set of torch tip cleaners. After cutting, sanding, and deburring, blow the needle clean.

 

Step six: Fitting and mounting the flame nozzle assembly.

It has been proven repeatedly that tube burner flame nozzles don't need to be sealed against air entrainment from their rear edges. However, keeping the nozzle centered and parallel to the burner's axis is critical to flame stability in the smaller burner sizes. Perfect fits are tough to make without a lathe, since pipe and tubing are notorious for being out of round; this is why the nozzle has six set screws for aiming.

    The flame nozzle spacer ring (part 5) is taken from the same random length of 0.750” O.D. by 0.620” I.D. #316 seamless stainless steel tube as the choke sleeve (part 6); it is cut 7/8” long, and deburred. Round the outside of one edge just a little to aid fit-up; this now becomes the ring’s forward edge.

    The flame nozzle itself (part 7) is a 0.875” O.D. by 0.750 I.D. by 2” long #316 stainless steel seamless tube cut from a 10” to 12” random length. After cutting and deburring the nozzle tube, you will probably have to remove about 0.005” for a depth of about 1” into one of its ends to achieve a press fit with the spacer ring. Rotate the parts together to find the best fit and ink mark the place. Remember to use hardwood, brass, or aluminum to protect the flame nozzle’s forward edge, and the spacer ring’s rear edge from deformation when tapping the two parts together; or you can squeeze them together in a vice.

    You may want to cut parts for an extra flame nozzle and spacer ring, to keep on hand in case you wear out the first flame nozzle; that can happen within a few months if you run burners “all-out” for hours at a time.

    Power sand the inside of the spacer ring until it slides freely on the mixing tube. You will want to rotate the nozzle assembly and mixing tube together to establish the best fit.

    Place the nozzle over the burner’s back end and use the three air openings to indicate where to mark lines on the nozzle for its set screws. Ink mark three equally spaced linear lines for two rows of set screws. One row is placed 3/16” forward of the nozzle’s rear edge, penetrating the nozzle and spacer ring. A second row of set screws is placed 5/8” forward of that same edge, so that the nozzle can be aimed. Don’t Scribe these lines, and center punch them right away, to avoid having to remake some of the linear and cross lines, later. Drill and tap all six places for 10-28 screws.

    File or sand their forward faces flat, and sand away all internal burrs or deformations inside the spacer ring, then chase the set screw holes, working back and forth between sanding and chasing until the flame nozzle assembly slides well on the mixing tube, and all set screws turn freely within the assembly.

 

Step seven: Tuning and running the burner.

Temporarily set the nozzle overhang on this burner at 13/16”; this is the longest overhang your burner can be set to, and you will probably end up with about 1/16” less overhang. Minimum recommended operating pressure for this burner is four pounds gauge pressure, with a maximum of thirty pounds.

 

Step nine: Installing the locking screw.

After all testing is complete, heat up the burner nozzle fully, and then tighten down all six set screws. Next, mark a spot between any two of the rear set screws; drill and thread all the way through the flame nozzle, spacer ring, and mixing tube for a locking screw, which ensures that the nozzle cannot slip out of position in equipment during heating cycles. Sand or file the face flat on a 10-28 by 3/8” long set screw, and lock the parts in position with it Look inside the mixing tube to make sure the thread isn’t protruding past the tube wall; if it is, file it back even with the wall, if it is.

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Recommended tools you may not already have:

(A) Combination square (6” preferred)

 

(B) Low cost Dremel type electric die grinder kit with cutoff wheels, shaped stones, etc. This makes the best choice of any single power tool for cutting and shaping parts on small burners. They are safer for amateurs to use than the more powerful 2” die grinders, and are much more easily employed when cutting the burner’s air intakes than other power tools. You can find many such kits offered through Amazon.com, such as the Genesis GRT2103-40 VS Rotary Tool, which comes with 40 Accessories, including diamond coated rotary files. Large hardware stores also carry such kits.

    Both new and used rotary tools and accessory kits are available on eBay. Do not waste your money on battery operated rotary tools; the best of them are weak and slow. Don’t even attempt to cut the burner’s air intakes with an angle grinder; the openings are far too small for that.

    You must not use larger than 7/8” or 1” jeweler’s cutoff disks on this burner’s air openings, and stay well clear of their corners (1-1/4” disks can be used on the 3/8” burner). Also, you don’t want to employ just any 1/8” shank mandrel for the job.

    The standard jeweler’s mandrel, which only has a standard 1/16” arbor screw head, was designed for making very small cuts in soft metals; not for making extended cuts in steel. There are special mandrels with 1/16”screws that have oversize screw heads, threading into oversize mandrel faces; these far outperform the standard minimal screw head variety; you can find them offered through eBay, Amazon.com ( input “SEINC rotary tool mandrel” to find it quickly), and some jeweler’s supply houses.

    Jeweler’s mandrels aren’t the only accessory that has modern improved versions.  Disks meant for work on ferrous metals are fiberglass reinforced (and that should be stated in their sales literature); also they have courser grit. If you can’t see the grit in expanded views of the product, keep on looking elsewhere. SEINC carries these disks too. The most desirable steel cutting disks are not only fiberglass reinforced, but also contain corundum grit (they are grey; not pink or red). The best cutoff discs and mandrel you can buy or Dremel’s EZ Lock cutoff disks and mandrel kit.

(C) Small drill press

(D) A cheap set of jeweler’s files (AKA needle files), and a diamond coated rotary file from Amazon.com or eBay are recommended. It should be noted that cheap hardened steel jeweler’s files often don’t work very well. Fortunately you can get cheap diamond coated jewelers files through eBay that work very well indeed.

(E) Set of Allen wrenches for the set screws

(F) A standard set of torch tip cleaners are needed to deburr the gas accelerator orifice after cutting it down to recommended length, and for cleaning the orifice when it becomes clogged with wax and tar from the fuel. Propane comes in various quality grades, but none of it is triple refined. Dispenser needle orifices will become clogged occasionally; you can buy tip cleaners at any welding supplies store or through Amazon.com.

 (G) A sheet of fine emery cloth, or the finest sand paper obtainable (at least #300 grit).

(H) Marking pen with fine point

(I) Steel marking scribe

 (J) If you don’t have a lathe, than a 6” friction cutoff saw from Harbor Freight Tools (item #61659) is recommended, although a 4-1/2” angle grinder with a cutoff disk will work. you can cut all your tubing to length with a hacksaw or the rotary tool, but doing so is a lot of work. Don’t even think about using an angle grinder on the air openings; they are much too small for that.

(K) Starting tap for a #10-24 thumbscrew is recommended

(you will not find #10-28 thread size in a thumbscrew); this tap takes either a #25 or a 5/32 drill bit.  #10-24 thread is about the smallest you will find a thumbscrew in. Because you must buy a different tap anyway, you may use any thumbscrew up to 3/16”, and still make it work comfortably on this burner, although I recommend the smallest size you can find, for the sake of an easier fit-up over one of the burner ribs. You will also need a drill bit the same diameter as the call-out size of your thumbscrew, with which to make the two holes used to help form the slot in your choke sleeve.

(M) A #14 high speed drill bits for the 10-28 tap

(N) 10-28 starting tap

(O) Cheap digital caliper from Harbor Freight Tools

(P) Safety glasses or goggles

(Q) Prick punch; this is much smaller and sharper than a standard center punch, and is used for accurately center-punching starter holes on laid out surfaces. For this burner, a standard center punch to enlarge the punch mark with afterward isn’t needed.

(R) 3/8” hex head bolt, 3” long, preferably with some shank beyond the thread. You want to take your mixing tube down to the local hardware store and match up the bolt to it, for best fit.

S) You may also need to by either a 5/8” worm gear clamp, or black flux and 50% or higher silver content silver braze alloy if you over sand the mixing tube in step one.

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"Dump the idea of using your weed burner."

This was the advice I gave recently to a guy who was looking to build a five gallon size forge, but there are two general size of weed burner: the usual monster size fuel guzzler, and the little area size burners, which run off of  16 oz. bottles. The little burner is everything the monster isn't: hot burning and thrifty to run. And such a burner can be successfully run in a small gas forge. 

Surprisingly, the flames on these area burners fully burn in their primary flames, and they have a long turn down range, making them excellent candidates to run everything from a two-brick forge to a two-gallon knife makers forge. Unfortunately they are rather long, but we can't have everything.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Most of the parts for this burner are identical with the 1/4" and 3/8" burners posted a few months back. The differences lay in the parts from the goose neck on back. You are buying about $14 worth of parts in the first torch, and ending up with all the the various ways to mount a burner and hand torch that you could possibly ask for. You are also ending up with a propane torch that is not only powerful, but which can be cleaned; not something that is very easy to do on commercial air/propane torches, which all depend on micro sized gas orifices in their jets. Propane is not a very clean fuel, and gas jets that are much smaller than any cleaning wire that can be purchased for them constitute a bad idea on any tool meant to run propane. But then, all those torches are imports, which probably cost about  fifty cents in China...

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    To accurately drill the gas jet, it is placed in a drill vise and held at a true right angle to the drill bit, either by using the top surfaces of the vice held even with the jet, or by placing the jet on a small parallel part held between it and the bottom of the vice, to keep the finished hole parallel to the part’s axis.

    The vice is allowed to “float” on the surface of the drill press, so that the bits can be centered over it by feel, and a light touch is used to press the bit into the part. While it is drilled with a small centering bit (between 1/16” and 3/32”size), followed by a #21 numbered bit. Then, the hole is threaded by a 10-32 starting tap; a plug tap will serve, because it is only threading into brass, but a starting tap is always to be preferred. Leave the jet in the vice to begin tapping, to ensure the the thread will also run parallel to the jet’s axis.

 

Note: centering a small hole by “feel” is not only faster than laying it out, but nearly always provides more accurate results than any other method.

 

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Clean off all burrs from thread, and blow the part clean of debris. Put a drop of fuel rated adhesive on the connection’s thread, or else use fuel rated Teflon tape, and then screw it into the hole.

    The dispenser needle has to be cut down to 1” length. Use a friction blade or fine tooth file to cut it just beyond the 1” mark, and sand back even with it on #300 emery cloth (use a drop of water and a circular motion). Clean out internal burrs with a round file from a set of torch tip cleaners. Blow away internal debris with air, and mount the needle on the hub.

    Alternatively, the gas jet from the P-10 torch and almost all other gas jets can be removed,  drilled, and silver brazed, in order to set a capillary tube in place directly within it. While this involves more work, do to silver brazing, it is more tolerant about drill alignment, as the tube can be easily bent after the jet is screwed back into the goose neck, if your hole wasn’t drilled quite parallel.

    But supposing, you completely trash the gas jet, or decide for some other reason to thread directly into the goose neck. Then, before you do anything else, close the valve and scuff cotton fiber (ex. Que tip) inside the goose neck to prevent debris from entering the valve body. Once all work is done, turn the threaded area on end and tap out loose debris; then insert a long slender screw into the cotton wad (keeping the goose neck upside down), and draw out the cotton and the rest of the debris; tap the part again. Next, use a couple of puffs from the canister to blow out the part, making certain to do this out of doors and well away from all ignition sources. The point of all this care is to prevent metal shavings from damaging the valve or clogging the new gas jet afterward.

    Most existing gas jet contains a spongy looking section, which this is meant to act as a filter; unfortunately it ends up doing a better job as a clot. Drill completely through the “sponge”; it isn’t of any value.

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On 6/19/2016 at 2:50 PM, Mikey98118 said:

"Dump the idea of using your weed burner."

This was the advice I gave recently to a guy who was looking to build a five gallon size forge, but there are two general size of weed burner: the usual monster size fuel guzzler, and the little area size burners, which run off of  16 oz. bottles. The little burner is everything the monster isn't: hot burning and thrifty to run. And such a burner can be successfully run in a small gas forge. 

Surprisingly, the flames on these area burners fully burn in their primary flames, and they have a long turn down range, making them excellent candidates to run everything from a two-brick forge to a two-gallon knife makers forge. Unfortunately they are rather long, but we can't have everything.

Mikey,  I found a listing for something like what you are talking about at northern tool is this  it?

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200481561_200481561

lousy photograph and not much info.

Bob

 

 

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Bob,

Yes that is one of them; there are loads of different sources for them now; two years ago you could only buy them through Harbor Freight, but then they didn't come with all the bells and whistles for twice or three times the prices; mine cost $18. Sales outfits are doing the same thing with canister-mount propane torches too.

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The gas pin

This is a 3/16” diameter by 3/4” long male pin with a small center hole, which ends in a 5/16” hex nut; it is located in the center of the 1-20 female thread at the bottom of air/propane hand torches, and engages the spring loaded female gas valves on 16 oz. non-refillable fuel gas cylinders (AKA cartridges). The size of a particular pin’s gas hole varies from torch to torch, but many of them are small enough to become clogged over time; when that happens the pin needs to be unscrewed and drilled out to a hole no larger than 1/16” diameter (an over large hole may fail to engage the gas valve). Begin drilling the hole from the nut end, so that the existing hole can help guide the new hole, tending to help keep it centered over the canister’s valve, once reassembled. Carefully clean out all debris and burrs from drilling, using a set of torch cleaners.  

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  • 4 months later...

Step one: Preparing the mixing tube. Begin by cutting the mixing tube (part four) to length. Square up and deburr both of its ends. The mixing tube is 6” long, and the doubler tube is going to end up about 1/2” long. The doubler tube will be cut off of the last 1/2” of the old torch head (the threaded section), only after it is press fit into the sanded end of the mixing tube. Next, power sand one end of the mixing tube until it will accept the doubler tube in a press fit. Remember that tubing isn’t perfectly round, so you will get the best fit with the least work, by rotating the parts together to find the place where these two parts are closest to the same shape; stop here for now

 

 

Mikey, 

I'm earnestly trying to follow these directions :wacko: and am seeeking clarification with this step.  Are you saying that the doubler tube needs to be flipped around so that the female threaded end of the brass nozzle on the firepower, gets turned 180 degrees before being press fit into the mixing tube?  And once it is press fit, 1/2 that sticks out gets cut off?  

Does this look right now?  Doubler is reversed and I've put a pencil at 1/2" where to cut it.  This would allow the round holes to be on outside of mixing tube over the gooseneck.  

Thanks,

EDE

 

656A37FE-5232-48CD-B1F4-B0C2B7BB8D64.JPG

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