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Screws that match your work

Featured Replies

Hi, does anyone have a source for black screws, preferably domed and slotted? I can find loads of "Japanned" screws ( cover in a thin black paint ) but nothing hard wearing or a bit more authentic looking. I was thinking of trying to find some steel screws and heating them, lightly texturing the tops and applying the same finish to them as my work, has anyone tried this? What are you guys using?

Thanks

Andy

Be careful of heating anything plated; both zinc and chrome plating release toxic fumes when heated.

I've not tried it myself, but I suppose in theory one could dissolve off the plating with a soak in vinegar or muratic acid and then do whatever heating or hammer texturing one wanted.

For generic screws/bolts look for "black oxide coated".  They're pretty common and can give a decent look when you don't want to go whole hog.  Great when something you are doing takes a ton of screws/bolts and you need to come in at a price.  

I know there are sticklers for authenticity but I'd sure as heck rather have hex socket headed screws used if there was even a .01% chance that I'd ever need to take something apart.  Sometimes it pays to join the 21st century.

Having just finished a small fabrication that took 300 #10 screws/nuts/washers x 4 pcs  I guess I'm a little punchy on the subject.  Thought that job would never end. 

 

When I'm doing something that requires bolts I use hardware store bolts, too, mostly cause I have them around.  I do grind off the raised markings from the head, then I stick them in the forge for a sec (be careful of not doing that with zinc or chrome) or overnight soak in vinegar first to remove the coating then a quick pass through the forge.   Hadn't really thought about Kozzy's point of accommodating possible need to disassemble some day, but I heartily bow to anyone who just finished something with 300 screws!

12 minutes ago, SpankySmith said:

When I'm doing something that requires bolts I use hardware store bolts, too, mostly cause I have them around.  I do grind off the raised markings from the head, then I stick them in the forge for a sec (be careful of not doing that with zinc or chrome) or overnight soak in vinegar first to remove the coating then a quick pass through the forge.   Hadn't really thought about Kozzy's point of accommodating possible need to disassemble some day, but I heartily bow to anyone who just finished something with 300 screws!

1200!  There were 4 assemblies.   Sometimes I want to smack engineers and their designs with the peen end of the hammer.

+1 for BlacksmithBolt.  I've used them for years, easy ordering and fast shipping.  Fairly informative website too.  

In the architectural world 300 fasteners in an installation might be something to finish by lunchtime.  And make sure all the slots in the screw heads are oriented the same way.  Or the square head lag's facets are all aligned.  Not kidding.  

4 hours ago, Kozzy said:

 I know there are sticklers for authenticity but I'd sure as heck rather have hex socket headed screws used if there was even a .01% chance that I'd ever need to take something apart.  Sometimes it pays to join the 21st century.

And often they (architects designers and clients) pay extra for something not zinc plated and hex headed.  If you need to take it apart, well, they can pay for that too!

Greetings all, 

Just a fun accent that I have done on a few things.. A simple square nut under a hold down screw adds a new look .  

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Sometimes a threaded bolt with a nut on the backside is a good fastener. In that case I heat the bolt and give the head a couple of bangs as if it were a nail head.

20 hours ago, blackleafforge said:

Hi, does anyone have a source for black screws, preferably domed and slotted?

 

Those are called FILLISTER HEAD machine screws, if that helps your searching.

Heating the head of a bolt or screw to a dull red, and quenching in oil, will yield a durable flat black finish.

 

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