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Original brookes anvil molds


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A Brooks anvil pattern! Did you make the mold or is it part of the score?

Welcome aboard Leighton glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gang live within visiting distance.

We LOVE pictures here and I'm looking foreward with GREAT anticipation to pics of you pouring steel in that mold, break out, clean up and the finished results. No need ti wait till it's finished, we love good Works in Progress pics and reports.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Very interesting.  It does give me some questions.  From reading here and elsewhere I understood that forged anvils were better than cast iron anvils such as the 55 lb Harbor Freight anvil that I'm starting out with. But seeing this mold makes me think that at least Brookes casted their anvils.  Is that how most of the well known brands are made? Is there some type of forging process after the casting? 

It would be very cool to fill it with molten steel, but I imagine you would probably need an industrial sized furnace to get the volume of molten steel required. 

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There's a world of difference between a horrible fright cast iron Anvil Shaped Object (ASO) and a cast steel anvil. Most modern anvils are cast steel, once the Bessemer process made steel affordable it was no longer necessary let alone desirable to forge wrought iron bodies and weld HC steel face plates to make anvils.

There are however some very good cast iron body with mold welded steel face and horn anvils, top of the list being Fisher anvils. The difference in resonance frequency between the steel face and cast iron body damps the sound so they don't ring. SWEET anvils.

My go to anvil is a 125lb. Soderfors cast Swedish steel anvil, it's not only the best anvil I've ever used it will hurt your ears through muffs and ear plugs with a missed blow. Loud doesn't begin to describe the ring. It is one piece of homogeneous hardened steel so it's like a big tuning fork.

Brooks are or were high end cast steel anvils. I'll bet you could find a steel mill close enough to buy in on the end of a crucible and get one poured.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I don't get it. How can you cast molten steel into a fiber glass and timber mold?? I would have thought that the steel would run straight through. Patterns for casting are positive pieces that are used to form the mould in a material that can stand the heat.

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The white part is probably just be a protective case for the wooden pattern to protect it from damage. 

To use these ,the wooden pattern was put into sand that is rammed around it, then it is carefully removed. The two negative molds are then clamped together forming the complete mold that the steel is poured into. 

Lost foam would be a way to do it today. A foam pattern is formed, then the sand is packed around it, but with lost foam the pattern is not removed. As the steel is poured into the mold the foam just vaporizes. The engine in my Saturn was cast this way, you can see the texture of the Styrofoam beads left in the castings..

 

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The white fiberglass is a mould for making a fiberglass, cast epoxy or urethane pattern.  A wooden pattern will not stand up as well for  higher volume parts as a plastic pattern will. 

I had a long post with way more information about master patterns aluminum patterns and plastic patterns but it disappeared when I hit submit

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Could not post this in the other thread

Lost styrofoam is good for very high volume parts like your manifold where they make aluminum moulds for the styrofoam.  It is also good for big one off castings, but for the one off castings where the styrofoam is machined to shape the surface finish is not as good as a conventional pattern.  The larger styrofoam patterns are also actually pulled out of the sand rather than having the metal poured on the styrofoam due to the fumes and gasses from burning the styrofoam.  The high volume shops can capture the fumes because they are pouring in a small area and then the moulds go down a conveyor of some sort to cool. 

I tried to merge the threads, but I can not locate any threads titled "fiber glass pattern",...

I accidently found it , If people would at least attempt to help themselves it would make our jobs easier, the title used here has absolutely nothing to do with the title of the target thread. How can you expect any of us to know what you were thinking, next time I wont bother. there are way too many important thing needing done.

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I don't think any professional foundry would pour directly on styrofoam, just too dangerous IF EPA would let you. An alternative to pulling the form is dissolving it with acetone using a vacuum hose to remove the dripping goo without letting much soak into the casting media. This works really well with investment molds and you don't have to worry about the smoke during preheat, there's nothing to burn out.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I deal with several foundries on a regular basis and occasionally quote on making styrofoam patterns and  none of them do anything but pull/dig them out. 

The gating for the castings is usually done as  separate pieces from the pattern,  If the pattern is mounted on cope and drag boards or a matchplate the gating will be mounted as well but they are normally separate pieces so they can be changed easily. .  Every Foundry I have ever dealt with has their own ideas about gating and risering.

I have made hundreds if not thousands of moulds for making duplicate patterns over the years that are just like those moulds. They are not finished around the outside because they are just for use inside the pattern shop for likely a one time use. 

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

I  would offer to pay $500 for the wooden pieces.  You can use the styro to ship them to my house.  Serious here, as I make my own anvils, but mine are all in the size range up to 100 pounds,  S7 face forge welded using proprietary secret methods at my local foundry.

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