remist17 Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 (edited) I wanted to put this in a post I had already started, but the forbidden bug got really old. So here goes, I wanted to build my blacksmith building over the old chicken run. I started my building this weekend. The actual dimensions are 7.5ft by 12ft. The old chicken run was a little smaller than I thought! So my question is how far from the wall can I put the forge? The body of the forge is 26”x26”. I was thinking about 6” from the wall on all sides. I would like to run the chimney up the side and exit at the roof peak. What is the average distance from the forge to the anvil and vise? I was thinking 1 step to anvil and 1.5 steps to the vise? Do I need to side the barn in metal or can I use wood siding? What is the easiest way to make a hood? I currently have 8” chimney pipe that is 6 ft in length and two section of unzipped 6” pipe that I was going to try and make the hood. Thanks Edited August 17, 2015 by remist17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Been looking at side draft design. I have some 8" pipe about 10 ft from a old stove. Can I use this with a 12" x12" x3 ft rectangle that would go by the fire. Will the 8" work?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 If you use a cement backer board on 1/2" standoffs, (off the shelf items) you can put the forge right against the wall. Dont build the fire against the wall of course but cement backer board is intended as a fire barrier.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Frosty thanks never thought ofof that .Anyone use 8" pipe successfully? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 12" is the recomended size. Stove pipe has a seam that can be opend, and two peices put to gether. Two peices of 6" make one 12" one of the mithes has a peice of 12" steel pipe with a hole and an eye brow seting on the forge table with stove pipe extenfing up, some have a 12" box out the wall and the 12" pipe in the top, some just have the pipe hu ering off to the side. Hoods can get in the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 What can I make the horizontal tunnel out of? I see a bunch of ac ducts but they are galv steel. I was thinking to use the 6" pipe zipped together but I think that's the same size as vertical pipe. Sorry for the confusing dumb questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Don't know how much effort you want to put into it, but I make a few things from the panels off of washers, dryers, stoves, etc. The sheets are normally pretty good sized, thin enough to work with, yet strong enough for things like you are talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Score a greas drum from the folks that you get your care serviced. Either fit it threw the wall, and cut a hole in the side to fit the 12" pipe or place it vertical, cut a hole in the side (read the stikies for the ratio of hole to pipe) and cut a hole to fit the 12" pipe in the lid and clamp it on. Walla, ugly but simply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 You can buy stove pipe connectors and subs, I believe the Ts are called "clean outs." Come straight up off your hood and place the T so one leg faces forwards with a cap and the other leg runs back through the wall or window using a "Wall Jack." Once clear of the eaves install another T with one leg down the other up to make the run to the pipe cap.The downward facing leg gets a little damper that opens when you light the fire so back pressure caused by cold air in the stack doesn't cause the appliance to smoke in the building. As soon as warm air tries to exit the "barometric damper" opens and allows the cold air to fall out till the warm air starts a draw, then it closes.The T above the hood lets you clean the horizontal section of the stack easily, this is the area that will soot up most quickly as the smoke is moving the slowest and will condense out. The little cap just slips into the T so it's easy to check.A forge fire doesn't make a lot of excess heat when burning properly so your stack has to have good draw or the smoke will just drift around. Side draft hoods work much better than over head hoods as they're more restricted so the smoke has to move faster and doing so creates more draw. Faster smoke means less soot too. The top of the stack must be at least 4' above the highest obstruction within I THINK 10' to avoid wind causing a back draft and blowing smoke down the stack into the shop.If you pick a quiet day at the FD, say they're out front washing trucks just stop in and ask about the local codes. That way you can get good info anonymously. The guys and gals with the FD aren't under legal obligation to report "suspects" they're more interested in folk being safe.Once the stack is above the forge a few feet it won't get hot enough to burn galvy so, say at 4' to be safe, ventilation ducting is okay.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I get away with exhaust on top + 6” galvanized pipe and long horizontal section but I have invested in a fifty years old vaccum cleaner to force the draft. See thread: ’New to the forum, new shop question’ last entry.Göte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 trying to get a response posted but does not seem to like me today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 So no grease cans around, everything is plastic. I was going to use the two 6" chimney pipes for the horizontal run, what are the thoughts on galvanized sheeting? Or using a 8" stove pipe already at the 8 foot run Heres the layout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Thats not unlike Uri Hoffies set up, and that is in the accesible blueprints. Tenachius uses a similer, if more primitive set up. The grease drums I was refering to are the 25 gallon ones used for 90w and grease. My hadealer just used up 10 on his pivot irigation systems. And I know every shop that services rear ends or greases chasies buy grease in them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Agreed. I continued to call around to some of our ag service centers. i actually got hung up on when I asked if they had any of the empty grease buckets. Some people in my area are just not nice people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 guess you will have to get creative. A steel bucket will work, rofing contractors get roofing tar in them. TS has stailes buckets, a bit of work and one can convert a 55 galon drum to a 2 1/2 x 6' peice of sheet. Only need 4 1/2' to make the plenum. One of the gues scored a 12" pipe cut off and made a nice side draft plenum. I have an old smoker... Who changes your oil? Local car dealer, trani shop, jiffy lube, wallmart... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 what are your thoughts on galv roof sheeting for the chimney? if that will work i have the plenum taken care of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I built my side draft out of sheeting from an old washer. I used sheet metal screws to fasten it all together. I think it took me about an hour to cut, score, fold and screw the hole the together. I have since removed it (im movin my shop) otherwise I'd take some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Probblems with getting it hot enugh to vaperize the galvy coating, bad for your health. Once you get a few feet up the pipe it will never get hot enugh to be a probblem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Look for an old hot water heater. Lots of thin tin on the outside but some really nice metal in the form of a cylinder on the inside. The tank can be 14 to 16 to 18 inches in diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Most folks I know use galvanized pipe for the main run. I have some stainless pipe---ex commercial kitchen venting for the hot end and used spiral seamed 10" round duct pipe for the rest. Remember a forge is not like a woodstove, the chimney stays a lot cooler---one reason a larger one is necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 OK. I think I'm going to make the first run with the 2 6" stovepipe and then use galv roofing for the pipe. Thank you all!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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