First off, I am new and I am located in Livermore California so if any of you are near by I would love to hear from you.

 

Now the project, I am going to be putting a brake drum forge together in the next day or so.  I have a piece of 3/16" steel plate 3'X4' for the deck.  The edge will be 2x2x 3/16 angle.  The drum is off an F250 and the O.D. of the lip is 14".  I plan to burn a 13" D. hole in the deck.  Then use the cut out to make an 8" disk that will be bolted to the bottom of the fire fire pot using the existing drum bolt holes.  I will be using 2" square tube for the tuyere and ash dump (cuz I have a bunch of it).  The blower is going to be the discharge side of a shop vac until the noise drives me crazy.  I plan to make a side draft chimney for it at a later date.

 

So, with the above in mind, where would you locate the center of the drum cut out and why?

 

Thanks

Off to one side so you have plenty of room for coal.

Id place the cut out 18" from one end, and on the center line.
I like a 30" square forge, with a 30" table beside it. This places the fire pot iin a place were you can work efficently.

Thank you for the responses.  I was thinking of not centering on the long side but with my inexperience I was hesitant considering the future side draft chimney.

Build a mock up of the chimney and place the fire pot accordingly.

That is a very good idea except that it requires that I have the knowledge and experience to design it at this time.  From my reading I believe I will need a 10" or maybe 12" flue.  So the top of the "hood" should allow for a 12" flue, thus 12 inches plus.  I think I would like it a bit deeper than 12 inches, maybe up to 15 which would give me lots of design flexibility.  Since the angle rim of the table takes up 2" that would mean the face of the "hood" would be 17" in from the side.  Assuming the edge of the fire pot is flush with the face of the "hood" that would put the fire pot dead center on the table which seems wasteful of space.

 

Although a little more work making the "hood" flush with the side edge would give me an extra two inches which I probably would not regret.  So it comes down to the 15" allowance for depth, is that excessive?

Jockey dude: Like most new guys to the craft you're really overthinking this. We're offering you more knowledge than a boy could need and experience isn't gained by reading things it's gained by TRYING IT OUT. Learning by our mistakes is experience learned.

 

Nothing is perfect, it doesn't need to be, especially for a smoke hood. If you fret like this over everything you'll never get anything done and if you don't DO you'll never be a blacksmith.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Don't worry Frosty, I am not fretting.  The forge is tacked up so no more questions.  I am the kind of guy that prefers to learn from other's mistakes and not repeat them myself if possible, thus the questions.  Thanks all.

So where are the pictures? :P

Just tacked together.  

Very nice work.  I really like coal forges and can't wait to see this one finished.

Hey, isn't learning from other people's mistakes cheating? Okay, so I try very  hard to do that kind of cheating. I'm also a machinist's son, grew up in his shop and tend to try building everydarnedthing to his level slop. He considered anything more than a ten thou, eyeball slop. Did you know frame carpenters think building the roof to +/- 1/64th" any which way you want to check, excessive? Seriously 1/64th. is closer than necessary? Wood guys. <sheesh!>

 

Your forge looks like a winner.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

if you mount the drum UNDER the table its easier to clean out, adn load coal. , being above the lip will get in your way...

hello folks new one here I have a coal forge that a friend built then he decided to use gas so I got this one my problem  I can get a fire going but its hard to keep iam thinking that the fire pot my be to big is this possible or do I need more time to practice (the firepot is a truck rim and drum I think

We need more details.  Preferably a picture, if possible showing us the air source and piping and the tuyere you are using. The coal you are using, etc.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38215-forge1/

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38216-forge2/

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38217-forge3/

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38218-forge4/

bigger air holes in your tuyere plate.  My tuyere plate is expanded metal and so 80% air holes.  Those might work for a powered blower but not a hand crank.