562 lbs Soderfors Bruk history please?

[Cufflink]

G'day forum, please accept my apologies for jumping straight in, but in trying to research my anvil, your site kept coming up, so figured you're the people in the know!

 

Short story - my dad bought this anvil years ago, part of the story as I know it was that it came to Australia as balast in a boat (not uncommon apparently), I don't know which boat or when, I'll lean on my dad some more for this information . . . as well as how he came to owning it! Either way, there downsizing and I'm about to look after the anvil. I love this anvil, it's only ever lived in the garden of the family home and will continue this lifestyle in my garden (sorry to you true hammer swingers).

 

It's the passion for the anvil that's brought me to your site, I'd like to know more about this "Soderfos Bruk" anvil, made in Falun Sweeden and weighing 562 Lbs. Having done a little homework, I now realise I need to get a better picture of the stamping to the left of ths "SODERFERS" as this may help identify a bit more about this anvil. I'm guessing from other posts that it may have a top welded on it? and that may be steel? and the rest may be cast something?

 

Happy to be pointed this way and that on the internet, just finidng it difficult to find out about the company and anvils of this size.

 

Attached some pictures, sorry about the thumb in one, this is how it sits at my dads place, I'm intending to hit it with some engine oil? when it gets to my place to spruce it up a little and get rid of the bird poo, but didn't want to do too much to it as to ruin the patina or the authenticity of it.

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

[postleg]

Very nice anvil can't give you much info on it but if your going to use it as yard art chain it up. Here in the USA $2 -$3 a lb is not unheard of and it might just walk off. A lot of smiths would give their hammer arm and leg for a nice clean anvil that size. I'm sure more people will chime in with more info so check back

[Cufflink]

Thanks postleg, it's going to be a challenge to get it into the backyard, I'd hope I'd notice someone coming in trying to reverse the process. I'm also hoping that out of their sight, out of their mind might also help. Will keep my eye out for other feedback, I'm keen to make sure that I don't wreck it and am guessing that the engine oil clean up shouldn't do more damage than good to it.

 

From what I've seen on various web sites, it certainly seems to be on the larger side of the scale, but not sure what it's made of or how it was made. Not qualified to do the "hit it with a hammer test", but read somewhere about someone dropping a 1 inch steal ball on the top, might see if I can find a nice big ball bearing to try same and see what bounce back I get.

 

Obviously doesn't matter too much if I'm not going to work it, but still good to know what it's all about!

[jmccustomknives]

Can't say I can help you on info although I'd tend to think it dates from the late 1800's to '30's?.  To bad you're so far away, I've got a nice ASO I'd trade you to save that beast and put the king of tools back to work. :angry:    At that weight it would be entertaining to see some bloke blow his man parts out trying to steal it. :P   You should really pick up smithing, you've got a better start at it than most of us (having a good anvil).  B)

[Fatfudd]

Lately there seems to be a run on Swedish anvils and ones in the 75 to 150 lb range are going for 3 to 4 dollars/lb just about everywhere in the US.

Once you exceed that weight class they seem to become even more pricey. Of course some can be found locally for less but that seems to be the exception.

When you go over the 350-400lb level in excellent quality anvils(in good condition) you are now talking a whole different game.

That being said, collectors seem to be driving the market for the really big anvils and will pay whatever they want. Again, Swedish anvils seem to be at the top of the market.

Your average smith can get by with a 150lb anvil very well and many have larger anvils but few have the money to pay really exorbitant prices, much as they would like to.  

I'm not familiar with your market but I assume you could probably get some pretty classy back yard sculptures with what the anvil would sell for.

[njanvilman]

To add to Fatfudd, an anvil of that size and shape would easily sell for $3000 or more here in the States.  Any smith in the world would be proud to own and use it.  It looks as though you could just leave it alone.  If no blacksmith use is planned, a good metal enamel paint would protect it for a long time.  That paint could easily be removed someday when the anvil goes back into use.

[Frosty]

Soderfors anvils are cast steel and some of the highest quality anvils on earth. I have a 125lb. Soderfors, Sorceress #5 and it's the finest anvil I've ever used.

 

I won't comment on putting that grand lady in the garden, it's yours.

 

Don't count on someone not being able to get it out of your backyard it wouldn't be hard, loud or slow. I'm not going to speculate on the methods that sprang to mind, I hate thieves and I don't hate much.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Black Frog]

I'm drooling....
And to think it is going to sit in a garden. :(

[Cufflink]

Whoops, looks like I did something wrong and my previous post I tried to submit appears to have disappeared into the ether? went something like:

 

Thank you all for your feedback, reading your posts makes me realise that there must be something in the "Smithy" about you all that makes me think you'd all be considered "good blokes / mates", here in AUS, not sure if it's your turn of phrase, or maybe your all a little rough around the edges like most of us Aussies!

 

jmccustomknives, thanks for giving me a date range to play with that's great . . . also appreciate the swap offer, but even if you lived next door I wouldn't swp . . . although I'd probably take up Smithying!

 

I appreciate that it apparently has a meterial value, but it's not for sale at any price, another one (or two smaller ones, or a cheaper beaten up one - thanks fatfudd) just wouldn't have the same pull for me that this one seems to.

 

As much as I understand it's a sin to not use it as intended, I hope you all realise that I truly love this anvil, both for its sentimental value and also for the weird calm, steady presence that it seems to exude. I think it's got an amazing artistic beauty to it, whilst quitely offering out a strange inner energy I just can't quite put my finger on.

 

Hopefully my respect for the "grand lady" (thanks Frosty) will earn me some sort of Smithy Kudos or respect with you all and that you'll be comforted to know I'll look after it so that maybe my son (or his) might use it in the future. I'll look at putting some enamel paint on it thank you njanvilman, although I noted in one forum somewhere that a Smithy hated painted anvils almost as much as he hated sandblasted anvils. This ones been in a garden for at least 40 years that I know of (as is) who knows where / what conditions prior to that, so really want to make sure I don't mess with it any more than necessary to look after it . . . including bolting / cementing / bracketing or whatever to the ground - without ruining it (thanks Frosty).

 

Black Frog - geeze, you're all going to guilt me into Smithying at this rate . . . and then I be sure to ruin her!

 

Really appreciate the feedback so far everyone, thank you very much.

[Black Frog]

You could do no greater honor for the grand old girl than to strike some red hot iron to her.
That's what she was made for!

Try it, but be careful..... you just might like it. :)

[Dan C]

I had a sick feeling in my stomach when I first read she's confined to a garden. I feel better now after spending time with my well used friend chained in my garage and am now longer jealous. It does appear she'll be well cared for until maybe the day a future son or daughter in your lineage puts hot steel and hammer to her table. Then the long wait will have been worthwhile and all will be right again, at least in one part of the world. Keep her safe from harm til then and thank you for sharing the pictures. She's a beauty!

[Cufflink]

Black Frog / Dan C - you make me laugh, reckon I can feel the viking blood serging through your veins from here!

[VaughnT]

It's good to know she's going to a good home where she'll be loved and cared for.  An anvil of that size, and in that great a condition, is genuinely rare anywhere in the world.  Australia is rather barren of such creatures (probably eaten by all those gigantic crocs they've got down there!).

 

Take care of her.  Teach the kids about her.  Enjoy the calm strength she radiates.

[humphreymachine]

Rather than paint I’d go with boiled linseed oil thinned with paint thinner – essentially the vehicle for early paints. Wipe on a thin layer to prevent too glossy an appearance and redo every several years or as needed. It will darken the surface but preserve the rust colors and fine textures which I assume you find attractive while at once preserving the metal from further water damage. It will darken the surface slightly but in my opinion look far superior to paint which obscures details and develops unsightly rust spots.

Rags used with boiled linseed oil need to be spread out to dry as they pose a real spontaneous combustion threat when balled up in a trash can.

[Cufflink]

Thanks VaughnT, we're not all that scary, mind you the croc's are one thing, but the sharks seem to be picking off a few of the surfers at the moment, must be the time of year.

 

Humphreymachine, I really like that idea, although I was prepared to paint her if that's what was best, I'd much prefer to retain her natural beauty if possible and your approach sounds perfect. Pardon my ignorance, but when you say "boiled linseed oil", do I buy it like that or boil it up myself? Also, would using steel wool to apply it be better / worse? I don't want it to be sparkling, with the loose surface rust just tidied up and preserved.

 

Still struggling to find uot more about Soderfors, anyone got some good pointers, other forums, other links / books you can steer me towards?

 

Many thanks all.

[njanvilman]

"Boiled linseed oil" is a modified linseed oil that has hardeners and drying agents mixed in.  Do not boil raw linseed oil.  Boiled linseed oil should be available wherever paints are sold.  The additives allow it to dry in a much shorter period of time, and will protect the anvil.

 

To repeat the warning above, steel wool or rags used with boiled linseed oil will spontaneously combust.     When I get done, I usually burn them in a wood stove, or leave them soaking in water for several days.

[Steve Sells]

putting it in a garden? so sad... :(

[humphreymachine]

Light rubbing with medium to coarse steel wool before the application of linseed oil should work well to knock off the sand like rust grains. Valid question regarding the oil. Linseed oil is commercially available here, and hopefully there, in two types – “Boiled” and “Raw”. DO NOT use raw as it does not harden. Boiled Linseed oil is boiled by the manufacturer and hardens in a day or two depending on the humidity. I thin it with paint thinner/mineral spirits about one part thinner to two parts oil. I rub it on and wipe off the excess with a rag—again being careful to let the rag dry flat to avoid fire. This oil mixture is also great for treating rusting garden shovels etc as well as their wooden handles. In the case of wood, apply the oil much more liberally as it soaks it in, wipe off the excess after 5 or 10 minutes and let dry for a day or two.  

[humphreymachine]

Great anvil by the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  

[notownkid]

Please take the time now to put this beautiful specimen of an Anvil in your will where you want it to go, to home with assurances it will not end up in scrap some day.  Never start to early.  

[notownkid]

Please take the time now to put this beautiful specimen of an Anvil in your will where you want it to go, to whom with assurances it will not end up in scrap some day.  Can Never start to early.  

[Dan C]

What about using a mix of BLO, turpentine and beeswax? Would that do better or worse for preventing rust if kept outside?

[Cufflink]

Amazing forum, a credit to you all, obviously a great kinship amongst you all.

 

Thank you all for the feedback, njanvilman, REALLY appreciate the heads up on the BLO, guessing it could have gotten a little messy with me trying to boil up some normal linseed oil and given I live in a 100 yr old wooden house, think I might control the ignition and burn the wool / rags myself where I want and when I'm ready, can't afford an accident like that!

 

Steve Sells, I am very sorry, truly, but whilst I'm living in surburbia in the above said wooden house, it's the best I can offer the old girl for the next few years. Hopefully I'll retire early, get that place in the country near a beach that I've been dreaming about and have a great big old shed to tool around in . . . I could build that hot rod I've always wanted too!

 

Humphreymachine, great, that's what I needed to know, it's just the sandy type rust your refering to that I want to tidy up and I appreciate the mix ratio detail too. Got a trip planned to the big boys toy shop (hardware shop) for this weekend already, so will add to the list. On the side note re the wooden shovel handles, doesn't this present a similar ignition risk to the rags and wool? I recently gave my wooden shovels a rub down with some normal engine oil and seems to have done the trick.

 

Notownkid, appreciate the advice, I've got a few bits and pieces specified in the current will, I'll add the anvil and specific instructions accordingly.

 

Dan C, as you know, I'm well out of my depth in this forum, but I use beeswax on some old rustic wooden furniture I have in the house which is great, but wouldn't this make the anvil "sweat" and rust more? Don't know if metal sweats, but hopefully you lot my know what I mean!

 

Thanks again to you all, really appreciate all of the feedback.

[quint]

Amazing anvil. Do with it what you will but I would try and pass it on and take the best of care of it. Ive got a 200lb sodofors which was the first anvil I got and will be the last to leave. 

[njanvilman]

Once the boiled linseed oil is applied to wood or metal, it polymerizes, giving off heat.  Once done, it is VERY stable.  I use it on all of my wooden handled tools when ever I think of doing it.  Makes them look good and last a lot longer.