Joel OF Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Hi folks, can anyone point me towards a product that will quickly clean forged mild steel surface oxides and possibly some light rust back to a bright sheen? I'm working to a tight time frame so I don't have time to concoct a homebrew unless it's really basic. The outdoor bench I'm making will ultimately be weatherproofed with a clear acrylic lacquer. Ideally I'd use some kind of spray on cleaner or a wipe on cleaner that I buff up after it's done it's work. When I say quickly I mean half a day maximum, I.E, wipe or spray on the product, give it a few hours to do it's thing, buff it off. I'm trying to avoid using a flap disc or manually sandpapering the bench because it's a big piece and I want a cleaning agent to do the majority of the work for me and I don't want flap disc marks on it. A wipe on/wipe off cleaner would be particuarly good for me because I'd like to vary the brightness of the finish across the piece so I can highlight certain areas more than others. I'm in the UK so if you know the generic term/active ingredient in a product rather than a product name that'll help me a lot. Telling me to get a particular Home Depot product won't help me because we don't have Home Depot. Thanks in advance! (P.S I get the feeling that this is a big ask and I might as well be asking for world peace and a million pounds whilst you're at it.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I've used a 3 step process; 1. purple industrial cleaner with a stiff brush and rubber gloves then rinse it off, 2. naval jelly which is a wipe-on let it sit for a while and rinse off, then 3. a knotted wire brush on a car polisher NOT an angle grinder. That process should take about 1/2 a day and gives a really nice clean metal. Using the car polisher is safer than an angle grinder and gives you better control of the final finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Try foaming oven cleaner. Naval jelly is always a good go-to product for light work like you're describing, but finding it in quantities at the local stores can be a pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinobi Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 IDK if this is available in the UK or if there is an equivalent, but CLR (calcium, lime, rust) is billed to do something along the lines of what you are asking. just google CLR, manufacturer is Jelmar heres the MSDS, primarily lactic acid (after water) http://www.jelmar.com/msds/CLR_MSDS_eng.pdf im not sure if any of the chemical etchants will bring back a 'bright sheen' though, I recall a discussion about that a while ago that basically concluded that some form of mechanical polishing or cleaning was required to bring back the shine to a piece. and I know that a vinegar soak just leaves my steel at a kind of matte gunmetal grey and needs a good once over with steel wool to get some shine back on it. could you staple some steel wool to a board and use it like a big sanding block? or mount it on a pushbroom handle and have at it from there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 If you can put it in a plasitic container (I have used plastic recyling container/ garbage can) buy a box of Borax soap, same as 20 Mile Team that we use for flux. mix it strong with hot water (soap blends better in warm/hot water), fill with cold water. Immerse your piece into the water, connect a trickle battery charger (the same that you use on your car battery). I can't remember which polarity. One cable to your work piece, the other cable to a sacrificial anode (a piece of scrape metal) that hangs in the water/soap mix. Plug the charger in and wait a few hours, soon the rust will all fall off. Disposal is simple, it is soapy water. No magic. For the smaller pieces, I neutralize the rust with phosphoric acid (it is stronger than Vinegar). it turns the rust black. Stop the action with washing with soapy water. There are lots of product with different names that are phosphoric acid. I purchase mine from an auto parts store that has body shop supplies. Rust-Mort is one Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Thanks for the advice guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 Joel - What method are you going to use? How did the results turn out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 i use an angle grinder with twisted knot wire brush on everything i make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJergensen Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Greenbeast, Let me second what Fatfudd said above: angle grinders with wire cup or brush are very effective but a safety risk. I use a variable speed "sander/polisher" in exactly the same way but at a lower and safer RPM (still quite effective). Wire bristles will fly from time-to-time and slower means less penetration when they hit flesh. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Oh i know it's not the safest, but it does work. And i've yet to cause myself harm. I'm intrigued by doing with with a sander/polisher, but don't have the money to experiment right now. Do they take the same brushes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 There is no way that you will be weather proofing with a clear lacquer even from clean steel. The only treatments that I have found that have any longevity on steel are some kind of galvanising /hot dipping or a full paint job as done on automobiles , starting with clean and layers of primer and top coat. If there is any rust present under paint then the paint is a goner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJergensen Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Greenbeast, No. Different fittings. Mine has a 5/8", 11 TPI "bolt", so the brush has a "nut" to match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W. Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 I haven't hurt myself with the wire brush and angle grinder but, I must say that there have been some close calls. I bought me 3 feet of 3 inch pvc pipe. I glued a cap on one end and have a cap for the other to slide on. I bought some 20% vinegar at the garden center. I use heavy fishing line tied to my items for retrieval later. It is not a fast process as I usually leave them in there for a day or two. When done it only takes some light buffing to remove the residue. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 Thanks for all the advice guys. I was working away from home and couldn't get the ingredients required to make the cleaning solution so I had to resort to a wire cup brush and corner sander. Boring, dirty and time consuming but it gets the job done I guess. Basher - do you know of a way to weatherpoof mild steel with a clear finish? The acrylic lacquer seems to be holding up but I have noticed that it scratches easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJP Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Sandblasting and inorganic zink or hot dip galvanizing everything else is a waste of time and is not good for your reputation cheers HJP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thanks for all the advice guys. I was working away from home and couldn't get the ingredients required to make the cleaning solution so I had to resort to a wire cup brush and corner sander. Boring, dirty and time consuming but it gets the job done I guess. Basher - do you know of a way to weatherpoof mild steel with a clear finish? The acrylic lacquer seems to be holding up but I have noticed that it scratches easily. nope no way, everything will last a little while but thats it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Furrer Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Basher is correct. Many have claimed a clear coating, but nothing holds up. ABANA and NOMMA organization members did a study some years ago and the long game says no. Either live with rust, change materials (titanium is nice) or good paint. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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