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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Greenbeast

  1. time-to-complete was a concern of mine
  2. This is the best photo i could get I'm going to try playing with the temperature of the forge this weekend. I need to put twists in the fire tools i'm making and cannot afford to risk them cracking after the work i've put in to the finials
  3. virgin mild steel no pics but i can do some tomorrow
  4. A couple of times recently i have experienced the corners on a piece of steel cracking. Today was the worst/most demoralising. I spent 5-6 hours tapering 12mm square bar, and noticed some slight cracking but managed to not make it worse. Until i came to scroll them all, the edges opened right up and now they're not worth what i'm meant to be charging for this project. What could be causing this? I'm forging with gas Could it be too hot, too cold (unlikely i think), too rich or too lean burn? Too long in and out of the forge? I spent 90mins doing a pair of them at one point I now face the prospect of replacing a whole days work with not a lot of time to do it in :(
  5. ok yes, i'd like to avoid acid as much as possible so i think i will try the reverse electrolysis, we have a battery charger on site
  6. Thanks guys. I was thinking about acid bath, so i will give the muriatic a go
  7. I've got a customer who has a reasonable list of jobs for me to do, but he wants everything to look aged, as though it's been there a century or more, even internal brackets, etc... What would be the best way of achieving this?
  8. yeah i did this a few years back for the then wife, she was chuffed. i was quite pleased with myself too
  9. Thanks guys, i do have a reasonably sized fly press. I have enough steel to continue with this project using alternative fixing methods. Although i do like the pre-bending method as it will allow me to use welding which will seal the seam/gap ready for galv/powercoat
  10. it's hot dip I was just going to ask about the brazing option, i've never done any
  11. Ok thanks, at least you have confirmed my fears, and that i will need to look for a solution
  12. Hello all, Relating to this thread: I'm considering using countersunk screws, stitch welds or rivets (countersunk, welded and cleaned on the front at least) Does anyone have any idea how this will behave with galv and powdercoat, given that there will be a seam along the part, or all of the bar. Will the galv penetrate between the two component bars sufficiently or am i opening myself up to rusting problems down the line? Thanks all!
  13. It is purely ornamental, i thought it might be aesthetically better to lose the seam between the bars I'm debating minimal welding or the countersunk screws. The piece will be galvanised and powder coated. my concern is getting a proper coating in between the pieces, if it was screwed at least it would be removable but the 10x10 might be more likely to warp in galv (i think?).
  14. i use mine all the time, cleaning up burrs, tidy up a fish mouthed bar end, etc... i find it easier to put a 90 degree end on a bar after cutting using a platen on the grinder. also handy to sharpen/refinish knives, punches, hammer faces
  15. Thanks guys. Mick, yes i guess it would be possible to use countersunk screws, i was going for the solid bar look so it didn't occur to me. John, I did actually weld it in short 25-50 sections all over the bar.
  16. I thought this time would be fine, i'd learnt my lesson from previous mistakes of not clamping things down when welding them. I need to weld 10mm square bar to 20x30mm bar (twice in fact to create a recess on a bar that looks like 30x30, if that makes sense.) I clamped the whole lot down and proceeded to weld the length up and clean up all the weld. When i released it i found it had still warped upwards of an 50-60mm in two planes across the 2m length!!! What can i do to prevent this on the others i have to do. and what is my best course of action to rectify the bend i've created here?
  17. yes even in my limited experience i have found this to be true
  18. In this instance it seems i haven't charged enough, oh well live and learn
  19. I'm doing a curtain pole at the moment, i spent two #### hours faffing about just winding 24 rings using 6mm round steel and the oxy-propane torch. I then used a slitting disk to cut them all off. I've put them in vinegar to eat away at the scale (i guess there's a torch settings that would minimise the scale!) I know it'll get quicker the more i do them, but now my thoughts turn to the smaller rings, i have some little bits of steel wire around which seems like the only thing small enough to be suitable but strikes me as not particularly strong. Will it be alright given the weight of the curtains will be spread across 24 rings? Also they'll need closing up well after threading on the larger rings Then the completed rings need blackening up, should i complete clean up, thread and close the ring assemblies then use my choice of heat/oil to blacken? Or do them separately and close up afterwards?
  20. ok, at the moment i'm assuming this is going to be wall lights and that i'll be able to use LEDs So that takes care of a few items on your check list, plug/fuse, switch, max wattage labeling, low voltage as opposed to Class 1/2 I will see what the customer has to say about it all.
  21. Wow thanks for that John, excellent stuff. Having built my own more modern, led-based luminaires for my own house i would like to go that route here also, it keeps things low voltage and low power and furthers the 'cause' of led lighting.
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