KZ150 Power Hammer

[Daniel.85]

Well..almost, just some teasing pictures for now.

 

2.5'x3.5'x3'

 

Hmm, offset or straight..

 

Need a bigger hammer.. I thought if I cut some grid lines I could break it up easy. Cutting concrete is awful though.

 

Maybe 30min with the jackhammer

 

My blue shop vac..

 

 

There is a bit of clay in the dirt here so I used some to smash around the sides and hold in the gravel, worked well.

 

3ft deep!

 

 

 

 

Lines..just cause

 

 

[jeremy k]

Daniel - are you saying your getting a KZ power hammer? and this is the footing for it?

[Daniel.85]

Yes

[KYBOY]

Sweet hammer, Im sure you wont be disappointed. They have the best control I think Ive ever seen.

[nonjic]

 Very neat job ! seems odd not to cast the anchor bolts into it though.

[basher]

Well as much as I do like a nice bit of concrete.......



I prefer a hammer.
Especialy one of these.
I have a kHz controls kit on my agenda in the next couple of years.....

[JNewman]

 Very neat job ! seems odd not to cast the anchor bolts into it though

 

Or even better using Massey's method of bolting down with cast in anchor bolt holes.   :rolleyes:

[DSW]

 A few generic thoughts for others who might want to do this in the future from someone who spent quite a few years doing concrete for a living.

 

 

You can significantly reduce the dust by using just a small amount of water while cutting. Granted if this was open and outside, I'd use the hose connection on the saw, but for interior work where we needed to keep down both the dust and mess, A small tank sprayer applied around the blade will significantly reduce both dust and mess. You can shield the wall with sheet plastic or plywood. A squeegee and wet vac will deal with the slop. 

 

 

Next I'll mention anchors and leave wire until last. I'm not a huge fan of wet setting anchors unless you have an exact template on hand to use to set your bolts. I'd guess 85-90% of the time I've seen at least one wet set anchor that needed to be redone. When it's only off by 1/2" it makes setting a new one almost impossible and greatly reduces the load that anchor can take. By "template" I mean an exact duplicate of the piece to be anchored, usually made of plywood, that exactly locates the bolts. We'd double nut the anchors above and below the plywood so they would remain straight and exact.

 

Better solutions are drilled and epoxied anchors. Most structural epoxies for this use will almost match wet set anchors assuming you correctly follow the directions. Wet setting a steel plate with anchors and then welding your item to it would also be one solution. Usually used for columns you can get an exact set and level in all directions this way, then weld the base plate to the set plate. Hammer studs or anchor or lead shields and lags work well for lesser items as do threaded tapcons and concrete "bolts"

 

 

 

Now The next part is a partial pet peeve of mine, so ignore me if I rant a bit. Steel in concrete is a good idea that has been so over used by those that have no clue as to make it absolutely worthless almost 99% of the time except in cases where it's actually designed by a structural engineer. As far as that little wire in the crete shown, it will help as much as if you put it in the trash can. There is a huge common misconception about wire/steel in concrete. Wire in a slab almost never stops cracking. If anything it simply holds things together after it cracks. Bar in structural concrete is a different matter. However to be of any value, it needs to be located where it will do some good, or it has zero use. The point of steel in concrete is to take the tensile forces of bending and help transfer these loads to compression loads the crete can take since crete is very weak in tension. On a simple bending structure where a "beam" is supported on both ends and a load is applied in the center or uniformly loaded, the top of the beam is in compression, and the bottom is in tension. The center is neutral with compression canceling tension. ( this is the idea behind the shape of an I beam as well). You want the steel in the lower part of the beam, and as far from neutral as possible, while still maintaining a safe level of crete to absorb the forces generated by the steel ( steel tries to stretch and the ridges on the steel put the concrete in compression around the rod) You also need enough crete to protect the steel from moisture and corrosion. Save minimum is usually 2" of crete. Problem is in a 2" floor, you are in the neutral part of the slab at that point and the steel is useless. Most times wire in a slab is never where it needs to be to be structural unless the crete is more than 6" thick.

 

The next issue is that floors are seldom "simple" beams. "Complex" beams with multiple supports and loads get all "wavy" when you look at a loading diagram. Now you end up with some spots where the top is in tension and others where the bottom is in tension. Now you need steel in both places depending on where the loads and supports end up.

 

In a huge short length, block mass like that footing, chances it will "bend" is very slim. Thus wire/steel isn't of much structural value. The exception might be if you have very heavy loads on very small contact points, usually found where big columns hit small footings. In this case the issue usually isn't that the footing will bend, it's that the compressive load on one small area will "crush" the concrete. Then the steel acts to spread that load out over a larger area so the whole mass of the footing will load equally.

 

 

Most of this that I've typed is vastly over simplified as far as an engineering/structural point is concerned, but it may help some better understand a bit of this.

 

 

I'm looking forward to seeing your hammer installed. You did a nice job on keeping things neat and clean other than the dust issue which is almost impossible to do without specialized tooling with dust evacuation..

[JNewman]

Epoxy anchors are good and probably good enough but I worry about the dynamic loads of a hammer.  The thing I like about the Massey method is you do have some adjustability for the holes and if you ever break the anchor bolts (which sometimes happens with hammers)  you simply drop in a new bolt. 

As well the anchor point set in the concrete is a steel plate which will never get pulled out.  The weakest point in the system is the tensile strength of the bolt. 

[Daniel.85]

DSW, that is the most constructive criticism I think I have ever received, lol! I thought I did a pretty good job till I read that, Im a little embarrassed by my rebar work now. In my defense I did know about rebar helping when concrete is in a situation were flexing would occur and I didn't imagine this hammer doing much of that to the block so I just did something based off of what I had seen others do. The wire was kind of a last minute thought as well, figured I would just stick it in. I was in a bit of a rush and didn't research it as much as I normally would have.

 

I would have used water when cutting but I was indoors around my new drywall and using an abrasive blade, so I didn't and it was awful for sure, I had a good filter mask so I wouldn't die.

 

Thanks for noticing the neat and clean part at least and thanks for taking the time to explain all of that, I agree with everything you said and wish I had read it before I poured, but I think it will still work great for me.

 

I planned on just drilling holes for anchors just to keep it from moving around, since I did not have an exact template for the hammer as it is still being built at the moment. Nathan Robertson has had his unbolted for almost a year, uses it heavier than I probably will and it has only moved about an inch. For what I do I felt that this would be plenty and I don't think this hammer will exert the same types of loads that a Massey would.

 

 

[the iron dwarf]

thank you for the explanation DSW, I knew a little of it but not all.

when I installed a hammer we went down 4 foot, there was IIRC about 14 pieces of 16mm studding, each 4 foot long with a 90 degree bend about a foot from the bottom, a template was made from square steel tube with the holes drilled to within 1mm of the holes in the base of the hammer and nutted above and below, a cage was made from 25mm rebar with 4 rectangular frames going front to back that sat on the bottom of the L shapes of the studding and a few cross pieces, a few small welds to hold things in place and it was dropped in the hole.

then 2 cubic meters of concrete was poured in to fill it to ground level, we had about a foot of studding above ground because the makers of the hammer said to sit it on wooden railway sleepers ( think you call them ties ).

we left the concrete for a month and then dropped the timber on the studding and put the hammer in place, it all went on perfectly.

this was for a sahinler 50kg air hammer ( 120lb at a guess )

[DSW]

I would have used water when cutting but I was indoors around my new drywall and using an abrasive blade, so I didn't and it was awful for sure, I had a good filter mask so I wouldn't die.

 

 

 

Don't worry about the wire/rebar. It somewhat of a pet peeve of mine from working in the industry plus the fact I have a bachelors of architecture and studied civil engineering before that. I get a bit tired of all the bla bla bla about wire rebar from home shows and building inspectors who don't know Jack about what they are talking about. I've had inspectors tell me exactly the wrong way to do things, including telling uus to go directly against engineer stamped drawing because they think they know what is going on because the watched Bob Vila on TOH.

 

 

I'm very impressed if you managed to cut that deep with an abrasive blade vs a diamond blade. Based on depth of cut I'd have guessed a14" or larger diamond blade.

 

 

 

Safety warning:

 

NEVER use water on a fiber reinforced abrasive blade. Also NEVER use a fiber reinforced abrasive blade if it has gotten wet. The matrix breaks down and the blade will grenade. Since I'm on that subject, they make two different types of abrasive blades in metal cutting. One for gas saws, and one for electric chop saws. The gas saw blades have a higher RPM rating than the electric saw blades. If you wind up one of the lower RPM blades in a gas saw you have about 5 seconds as the blade starts to wobble uncontrollably to cut the throttle before it grenades. When this happens you have a high chance of catching the parts in your legs, crotch and face if you are leaning out to the side to view the cut. The idiots who used to work as laborers would constantly grab the wrong metal blades from the shop so we quit buying the lower RPM blades and simply used the gas ones on the electric chop saw.

[DSW]

thank you for the explanation DSW, I knew a little of it but not all.

when I installed a hammer we went down 4 foot, there was IIRC about 14 pieces of 16mm studding, each 4 foot long with a 90 degree bend about a foot from the bottom, a template was made from square steel tube with the holes drilled to within 1mm of the holes in the base of the hammer and nutted above and below, a cage was made from 25mm rebar with 4 rectangular frames going front to back that sat on the bottom of the L shapes of the studding and a few cross pieces, a few small welds to hold things in place and it was dropped in the hole.

then 2 cubic meters of concrete was poured in to fill it to ground level, we had about a foot of studding above ground because the makers of the hammer said to sit it on wooden railway sleepers ( think you call them ties ).

we left the concrete for a month and then dropped the timber on the studding and put the hammer in place, it all went on perfectly.

this was for a sahinler 50kg air hammer ( 120lb at a guess )

 

 

Rebar cages are slightly different. In some cases like light poles that want to bend in the wind, the footing can act as a vertical cantilevered beam. In that case the bar which is tied to the anchor bolts does several things. One it helps transfer loads from the bolts that are trying to get pulled out  in tension to the concrete. The 2nd is to keep the concrete from bending if the footing is long enough. This would be the case in a concrete column for example.

[the iron dwarf]

I just thought we would go over the top a bit on the rebar and studding, I would always over engineer things rather than under as it is much cheaper to do it too well the first time than have to remove it and do it again, the block was 6' long and just under 2 foot wide IIRC.

rebar and studding was no closer than 3" from the edges

[nonjic]

My thoughts are if you go to the effort of having a big mass of concrete, the hammer has got to be very firmly tied to it, or you may as well not bother !

[Daniel.85]

Couple pics from the build in Ken Zitur's shop, should be finished around the end of the month.
 

 

[iron woodrow]

very nice!

now please could you tell me why it is tagged BACON?????

I LIKE IT!

[Daniel.85]

HAHA! I just wanted to see if anyone actually looked at those, you win.

[Daniel.85]

Marylou stays busy in the shop as well, she sent an update after she finished painting the hammer, impressive to say the least.

 

 

 

[Madmike]

:wub:

[Dillon Sculpture]

Finally get a look at the valve, kinda looks off the self modified but I'm not sure <_< Great hammer, congratulations!

[macbruce]

Very well done! Did you build it from KZ plans?

[Daniel.85]

macbruce, I ordered it from Ken, he and his wife are building it and I'm going to pick it up on Sunday.

[Charles R. Stevens]

I would like to suggest to any one digging a hole like this footing. The post hole digger and the post hole "spoon" as well as the sharpshooter.
It's a lot easyer for me to use a set of clamshells to lift out the loose soil int a narrow, deep hole. The spoon, really is just a sharpshooter with the lower 1/3 of the blade notched, and bent over 90deg to cleat the last bit out of the hole (you can buy very long handed ones for hand setting power poles!) and of corse the sharpshooter (long handled) is a light duty spud that looks like a trenchin shovel.

[Daniel.85]

Ken - doing some of the final assembly of the hammer.