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Please take into account that I haven't made ANYTHING in a forge yet, so my idea may be  totally rediculous. But as long as the hook were not going onto stone or brick (or anything of such hardness), could you maybe add a small spike to the back of the material a short distance above the screw point. this could dig into the wall enough that between it and the screw the hook would not rotate on it's own.

 

Perhaps at some point in the process upset the metal laterally about 3/4 " above where the screw hole will be, creating a bulge on the back side. forge the bulge into a small spike that could be pressed/driven into the wall before or during installation of the screw. I modified the pic of the finished hook to give a rough visual representation of what I'm trying to convey with my words.

 

GoatHeadHookCatchpin-1.jpg

 

The spike would be small and protrude out the back side of the 'body' and not be visible when mounted. Forgive the poor quality of the image editing.

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Hi Lastronin, I forge quite a few hooks simmilar to the pictured ram hook only with 2 screw holes. I think if I forged the spike you pictured here it would double the time I take to make a hook. They can be forged much quicker than the mentioned time, though mine have some differences that may not be as desireable.

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Please take into account that I haven't made ANYTHING in a forge yet, so my idea may be  totally rediculous. But as long as the hook were not going onto stone or brick (or anything of such hardness), could you maybe add a small spike to the back of the material a short distance above the screw point. this could dig into the wall enough that between it and the screw the hook would not rotate on it's own.

 

Perhaps at some point in the process upset the metal laterally about 3/4 " above where the screw hole will be, creating a bulge on the back side. forge the bulge into a small spike that could be pressed/driven into the wall before or during installation of the screw. I modified the pic of the finished hook to give a rough visual representation of what I'm trying to convey with my words.

 

GoatHeadHookCatchpin-1.jpg

 

The spike would be small and protrude out the back side of the 'body' and not be visible when mounted. Forgive the poor quality of the image editing.

This is actually a very creative idea, but I think making a second screw hole is much faster than upsetting and making that spike. And this spike would also damage the surface you mount the hook later worse than a second screw. If somebody would pull on the hook you can even make a very big scratch into the wall. Nice idea, might actually even work but not suitable for the praxis.

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This is actually a very creative idea, but I think making a second screw hole is much faster than upsetting and making that spike. And this spike would also damage the surface you mount the hook later worse than a second screw. If somebody would pull on the hook you can even make a very big scratch into the wall. Nice idea, might actually even work but not suitable for the praxis.

I had thought about the risk of damage to the wall and that it would take extra time, but if I remember correctly, the artist who posted this said that he didn't want to have two screws because of the aesthetics of it. I'll look back and verify what he said about it.

 

Thanks for your comment, there are some good thoughts in there I will sure consider on my next hook! I know that this hook might tend to turn around but I simply found no estetically pleasing way of adding two holes.

 

 

I just had a random thought pop in my head about a possible fix for the chance of turning without adding a second screw. I agree about two screws being the better method and is how I plan to do it once I get to the point of being able to do things like that. 

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I had thought about the risk of damage to the wall and that it would take extra time, but if I remember correctly, the artist who posted this said that he didn't want to have two screws because of the aesthetics of it. I'll look back and verify what he said about it.

 

 

 

I just had a random thought pop in my head about a possible fix for the chance of turning without adding a second screw. I agree about two screws being the better method and is how I plan to do it once I get to the point of being able to do things like that. 

I look forward to see your works, as soon as you are able to make them! Creative ideas are always important, you have to see with the time what is worth the efford and what not.

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daniel your post is great! - really clear and visual, for those of us who like pictures best :)  i agree with somebody above, who noted your teaching skills... i will look out for your next post.... :) thanks for the effort youve made to show the sequence of work.

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daniel your post is great! - really clear and visual, for those of us who like pictures best :)  i agree with somebody above, who noted your teaching skills... i will look out for your next post.... :) thanks for the effort youve made to show the sequence of work.

Thank you for that nice comment beth  :)!

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  • 1 year later...

Daniel,
Thank you for a great set of instructions. I have never tried to make one of these ram's heads but would like to give it a go. I feel reasonably confident about most steps except that welding procedure. What flux are you using and how is it applied? You only have 1mm of space there. Does the flux flow into that space? And then reheated to near sparking before hammering together?
A very nice finished piece. Well done.

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Daniel,
Thank you for a great set of instructions. I have never tried to make one of these ram's heads but would like to give it a go. I feel reasonably confident about most steps except that welding procedure. What flux are you using and how is it applied? You only have 1mm of space there. Does the flux flow into that space? And then reheated to near sparking before hammering together?
A very nice finished piece. Well done.

Hey! I am using borax in the video. I suggest you go ahead and put some wire around the horns and the material under the horns so you keep them from oxidizing while you weld the face. It is a principle of sacrificial oxidation of which I got aware a good bit after I had made this video. You need to leave a small gap between the pieces so the borax can wash out the dirt and scale. You can just sit the heated up piece into the borax. The carpillar forces will suck up the borax where it is needed. Then get it hot until the flame turns golden and you see a few sparks. Take it out of the fire and maybe give it a tap on the edge of your forge to nick off possible fuel residue. Then make sure you hammer straight and prevent the two faces from sliding. Repeat the process until you are sattisfied with the result.

 

 

Cheers

- Daniel

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Daniel,

 

Thank you for posting this.  I am a total newb, but one of my daughters has been after me to forge a ram's head do-dad for her room.  I have seen a few videos, but your's is the first that made me feel like I could accomplish something that I would be proud of.

 

Thank again!

 

 

 

 

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Daniel,
Thank you for the reply to my post and the advice you gave. Today I had a go those ram's heads. I took a list of your instructions to the forge and followed them religiously.
Started with 12mm square as you did. Twisting the horns was a bit of a problem because only the top, thinner part twisted so I had to quench that and do a second twist. I was wondering if you did the twist in one heat. And how did you get such a tight curl in the horns? I stuffed up a new pair of long-nose pliers doing that.
On the first try I think I bent the head over a bit too short. I was chiselling the mouth and was just about to congratulate myself on a fine looking mouth when I removed it from the vice and found I had chiselled the mouth vertically. (The horns had become a bit distorted in the bending process.) So I had to file that off which made the head even shorter.
I put borax on the gap to weld but as you can see from the pics it didn't take. Perhaps not hot enough. I was a bit worried about burning the horns off.
Anyway, I made that one into a poker and got on with another try.
The second one I bent too far making the horns too far back. The weld didn't take either. I debated whether I should adjourn to the shed and MIG it, but that just didn't seem right. I continued anyway and went on with the punching and the hook. A bit rough but it will do for the shed and I'll keep them as a first try to look back on when I get better.
I learned a lot of things today. Anyway, for what they are worth, I will post the pics here. One day I will be ashamed of them, but for a first try I am happy.post-50874-0-01507100-1391066079_thumb.jpost-50874-0-98446400-1391066254_thumb.jpost-50874-0-49160600-1391066410_thumb.jpost-50874-0-59157100-1391066609_thumb.j

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