eric sprado Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I've never made one with "traditional joinery". If the back plate of the knocker is flat against the door,how do you rivet over the ends of the hinge tenon? Do you make the base plate a little indented to accommodate the end? I've always plug welded parts from the backside ( is that like sitting in a confessional?) 'cause it couldn't be seen. Are my questions clear? thanks for ANY door knocker ideas. I'd like to make a couple of nice ones for Christmas presents. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Lodge Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I believe that's the correct way. At least that's how I would approach it. Punch the hole for the tenon inset the back out the mounting plate to accept the peened over tenon. I am not sure if there's a way to calculate how much of a tenon you'll need to back fill the space, but good ole trial and error will probably work :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 The one I'm most proud of was a dragon door knocker and I fold formed wings of sheet metal and they attached to the door and each had a tenon that fit into the body of the dragon for the hinge. (I started with 1" stock for the head and drew it way down to spiral up for the tail "knocker" part.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 The one I have made I threaded the shank of the hinge and made it long enough to go through a door. It can then have a nut (decorative?) put on the inside of the door it holds the hinge to the backer plate and to the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Some good ideas. Thanks!! I do have an assortment of bob punches I use for other stuff. Should have thought of that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Eric, If you decide to go into production, weld the back side of the tenon to the plate. It makes for a joint that will not loosen up in the weather. We made a bunch of knockers using both methods and the welded ones held up much better. The riveted joints as a hinge were the tightest and they worked the best. They also felt the best when folks were testing them out. i attached a few photos of some of the joinery and styles we produced for your review. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 wow where are the photos ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george m. Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 "What a great set of knockers!" Mel Brooks, "Young Frankenstein" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 George, The reference to "Young Frankenstein" was my second thought. My first thought was, " What knockers!" (me) Very nice "Visitor is at your door." thingys. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Hi Eric, Already been said re bob punch, here are some more ways of making knockers. Sides split and rolled to form hinge barrels, made by 16 year old girl student From the NBCC shows, Made by Richard Jones, Not certain who made these And one I made some years ago for a Welsh Cottage door, showing some details. The hinge pivot bracket had a square tenon, countersunk (bob punched) and flush rivetted, rivet allowance one and a half times rivet shank dimension These were modified coach screws, the lower one being where the knocker "clapped" the door, by positioning it there, it gives a more resonant/loud knock. On a lot of the older knocker mountings and other situations where rivetting was used, it was not unusual for the place where the piece fitted to to have a depression carved/formed in it to allow the backplates to seat flush. Have fun and enjoy, there are many other ways to make knockers work, some better than others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 John B.: Whoa---Thank you SO MUCH for all the wonderful ideas with PICTURES no less!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 WOW, you guys have some really great knockers. Some are bigger than others but I like em all. Seriously, those are some examples of fine craftsmanship, very fine. Thanks for the pics, a real treat for the day. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 WOW! With a set of knockers like these I could really get knocked up in style! These are inspiring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Is it okay to ask how you made the pivot bracket on knocker for Welsh Cottage Door? Thanks again, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Is it okay to ask how you made the pivot bracket on knocker for Welsh Cottage Door? Hey: Just saw the post from Peter76! Love those too. I've done some with welded backsides too.. Just was wondering how else to do it.. THANKS to all, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Is it okay to ask how you made the pivot bracket on knocker for Welsh Cottage Door? Hey: Just saw the post from Peter76! Love those too !!!!!!!!! I've done some with welded backsides too.. Just was wondering how else to do it.. THANKS to all, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Hi Eric, Piece of square bar, forged a square tenon on the end to fit to a hole previously punched punched and countersunk through the backplate. Ensure this seats flush and square on the backplate, (Use backplate as a monkee tool) Allowed the bar to cool then drilled 2 holes through on centreline at a size to suit the clapper body and an inch or so apart, and leaving a thickish wall at the base, Then slot punched this through as you would for a backstile heel bar on a gate, Place a suitable mandrel/drift through this slot and dress up the bar all around with a flatter. Drill through for clapper pivot/rivet, lightly countersink each side, Saw off through slot at required size, put a radius on the front, and file lightly the inside of the slot to remove any drill burrs, finish fit to clapper. Ensure everything is square and aligned when fitted Saw off tenon to length, and in this instance I heated the tenon with oxy acetelyne to secure the tenon as I wanted to keep a clean finish, and also used the mandrel to support the block to the backplate as I rivetted it tight, lots of light hits and heats to minimise distortion. Allow to cool. Then you can rivet the clapper in place when ready. Alternatively, you could, after forging the tenon and letting the piece cool, drill the hole for the clapper, saw off at a suitable distance, and then cut down to the hole using a saw or angle grinder to form the slot, and dress to fit the clapper, it depends on your tooling and inclination on how you want to produce the slot. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Thanks John!!! I had visions of having a hard time chiseling the lot. The holes will help that immensely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 I thought I would kill this thread by adding to it. Here are a few I made a little while ago. The one on the stool was from many years ago. I used a RR spike, drew it out to about 18 inches and made a long rattlesnake out of it. mounted it on a "cactus". The whole thing was about 16 inches tall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Pault: Thanks for your addition!!! Just now saw it!!!! Cactus and snake are nice deviation from other knockers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Nice stuff here. Don't know how I messed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Where are the wires? They are electric arn't they? LOL carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 As an oldie I'd call them radio controlled knockers, as they are 'wire less' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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