Ok folks........


GRIND OFF ALL OF THE UNEEDED SHARP CORNERS IN YOUR SHOP!!!!!!!!!!!

I was working on my power hammer this evening and slipped and hit an unground corner with my finger.



That's the second time I've hit something that should have been ground off and wasn't. The first time I was walking across the shop and slammed my elbow against a sharp corner on the treadle hammer.

GRIND 'EM OFF!

A lot of times people get hurt simply because it takes "too much time" (like 30 seconds to grind off those corners,) to take the proper safety precautions.

safety glasses
ear plugs
NO CORNERS!

As most of you know, the equiment is not what gives when you collide with it!

Take your time and be safe!

While your thinking safety, look for trip hazards. Many times they put you on a down hill, head first trajectory. This is only to be interrupted when you grab onto anything within reach and pull it down on top of you, just before your head collides with a hurtful object.

Everything that leaves my shop is always completely de-burred, even if the de-burred edges/holes will be hidden after installation. Not worth the extra seconds to de-burr and risk a cut. If someone else is cut probably no repeat work. always de-burr everything.
Rob

I had a comment about my cambering (if that is the correct term for the 45 degree debur with the drill press?) the holes I drilled. didnt take long, but people DO notice that little extra detail we do. So i assume they also notice when we do not take that time either...

I had a comment about my cambering (if that is the correct term for the 45 degree debur with the drill press?) the holes I drilled. didnt take long, but people DO notice that little extra detail we do. So i assume they also notice when we do not take that time either...

Chamfering

I fought this at the big Valve boiler and ice machine shop. When I built machines, the sheet metal and plate work was done in the boiler shop, and they deburred nothing. I would always note on my drawings a standard "Break all sharp corners o.06 x 45 degrees". I had to reject several projects before they got the idea:)
When i had stuff fabbed out, I put the same note on, and it was also on my standard spec's for purchased items. Had to reject a few of those as well.

I tend to deburr everthing, even parts to be welded at the weld joints because I will handle them.

That was one of the points I had drilled into my head early on (it started in HS shop class); NEVER leave a sharp edge on anything.
I quickly got into the habit of not letting anything leave my hand if it could potentially cause an injury another person. If it couldn`t injure someone else then it wasn`t a danger to me either.

While your thinking safety, look for trip hazards. Many times they put you on a down hill, head first trajectory. This is only to be interrupted when you grab onto anything within reach and pull it down on top of you, just before your head collides with a hurtful object.

Ah, the nefarious hose monster.....I have been known to let this gnarly beast inhabit my shop floor......Hoses, welding cables and extension cords....I develop a special way of walking around the shop when let it get out of hand but letting it get to that point is a bad habit I should kick.....(no pun intended) :P

In a different form of artwork, I knew a guy that tripped over an extension chord and his hand landed in the table saw blade. I tend to keep my floor pretty clear. I am going to run some wiring up above my welding table (when I get that built) so that my angle grinders can plug in over-head. That way there won't be chords running from the shop posts to the table.

The corners on the table will be removed as well! Can't imagine running into that sucker. The plate weighs 400# + or something like that. Like I said, the stuff don't give at all!

I know a kid that starts forge fires with kerosine, despite my warnings otherwise.

In an unsafe shop, walk out the door and tell them to call you back in if they survive whatever unsafe thing they are about to do! :D

hey fiery, something for your consideration,i have a over head plug and to keep the cord from unpluging i put in a heavy cup hook and put a washer on the cord with a cable tie. it works well to keep cord pluged in and keeps the grinder (4 1/2") from hitting the floor and breaking the disc. jimmy

hey fiery, something for your consideration,i have a over head plug and to keep the cord from unpluging i put in a heavy cup hook and put a washer on the cord with a cable tie. it works well to keep cord pluged in and keeps the grinder (4 1/2") from hitting the floor and breaking the disc. jimmy

good thinkin!

Getting students to pick up stuff that falls on the floor is an on-going issue. I have a special bin for cut-off bits sheared rivet heads, etc. I tell them it for when I get a tumbler built. It seems to help knowing that there is a needed use for the stuff.

When working in the machine shop if we received a part with burrs on it, it went back to the last person that worked on it

If you use an abrasive wheel chop saw, always grind the razor sharp kerf left on the ends,,, ALWAYS!

While your thinking safety, look for trip hazards. Many times they put you on a down hill, head first trajectory. This is only to be interrupted when you grab onto anything within reach and pull it down on top of you, just before your head collides with a hurtful object.

Also, a another good reason to remove as many sharp edges; even on tables and such (not just material and product). What you grab to catch a fall, could yield a nasty laceration! OK, you didn't fall, but now you're bleeding out!!
Another often overlooked sharp edge is a broken tack weld. I have a tiny white scar on my pinky finger knuckle from a tack weld that didn't get ground off of a set-up fixture at work. Not a real noticeable scar but I will always remember it because it was cut to the bone (through a leather glove when the wrench I was using slipped and my knuckle grazed a tack weld that the last shift neglected to grind off.