lakeside forge Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Okay yall. I need to know how to make an axe. All I have is a striker, made a drift for an axe today and I also got some new belts. I need to know what size of miterial to use and what tools I need. Here is the link of what I want to make Scandinavian Axe So if yall got any ideas or suggestions PLEASE TELL! Thanks, Steven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 What size do you want to make it? Stormcrow makes his small ones like that from 1"X2" barstock. IMO 1050 steel would be close to ideal. 4140 would certainly be good material too. Personally I would want to have a good slot punch to punch the eye hole. For a 2 pound head as in the example you linked to, about 4 inches of 1" X 2" bar would weigh in at around 2 1/4 pounds and ought to finish very close to 2 pounds after forging and grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 The very first idea,that would also make a most reasonable suggestion,is just BUY that one in the link You say that you've made a drift...For THAT particular axe?Then you should also know it's other dimentions.How tall and wide is it at the poll?(The poll in these axes is the part most resembling the original stock.I'd guess it to be 2 1/2" tall,by 3/4" or less). OK,quick math:those dimentions,times,say,3,and times 0.2835lbs(1"cube w.)1.6lbs...Ok,how's about x 4?2.13lbs...That sounds about right. The trouble that i'm pointing you at is that the Scandinavians have this nasty little habit of slitting a very tall,very skinny chunk of steel,and doing it very evenly!It's NOT an easy thing to do... Shell out $129,it's peanuts,for a good axe :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Shell out $129,it's peanuts,for a good axe but if we all were to shell out cash to cut out the hard work, no learning would ever be achieved. stephen, be prepared to make a few mistakes, but dont be afraid to try. if you make a trial run in mild steel, you would have some experience in what you want to make, before you risk the more expensive steels. you could always steel an edge later, if it works out. i have to admit the only time ive made axes is with a 300 tonne eumco upsetter, (with top and bottom dies clamping, and the w302 drift being driven in from behind) but even with that the initial setup was done with mild steel, to save the expensive steel for the real deal..... the upstter was mainly used for drill rods though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Get down the technique of making eyes first. Read up on what Brian Brazeal has to say and show on the subject here on Iforgeiron. Attend one of his workshops if possible. Punching the eye is probably going to be the most challenging part. When forging out the blade, though, take great care to kep the eye parallel to the ground so that the cutting edge stays in line with the eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 First decide if you are going to do a wrap and weld eye or a punched/slit and drifted eye---and tell us there are some tricks you can use to help get an even eye done---like predrilling a hole to let the slitter travel straight. But they are basically dependent on which method you will be using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakeside forge Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 I'm going to punch and slit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Woodyarmourer,you're entirely correct,of course one MUST challenge oneself,always! But this is a case of someone picking on a particular technique,that is not exactly for a beginner,to put it mildly. That specific type of an axe has been built a certain way,for a long time(GB in now what,over 100 years old company?),using some technology in the process too. The way you've thought of your industrial experience is sensible,there's a couple of machines used in GB,too(i'd love to see some photos of the process that you mention). Don,J.Austin is a genius!But this here axe is different,and has a logic of constructing it all it's own.Also,Jim's technology requires quite a considerable bit of skill as well(maybe more! ) There're a couple of videos showing THAT very axe built(one by GB themselves),and the work looks grueling! But,OF COURSE,the VERY best of luck with any and all undertaking,didn't mean to discourage at all :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Here's how they do it! Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Thank you,Phil,yes.And also,more to the point of the specifics of that style of slitting,here's this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4cJ0Vf72eI&feature=related Also thereabout,there's another GB video of more "hand"-worked process,"axe-forging and lodge construction",check it out. All in all,these represent this particular style of axe,and it's manufacture.In my opinion,it's one of the classiest,and the more challenging types to actually do. But,again,go forth,and may the Deity and all else be with you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 That is more helpful Jake. At 9:05 they show a "blank" that appears to have been pre-drilled to make deep slitting easier. There is also a slot cut into the edge area that makes me believe this video is a steeled edge axe. Phil Appears to be 14 (cm?) long and 2 thick. They don't show the width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Jake - Thanks for posting that video - The fullering blows at the 6:45 part of the video are interesting as they help retard the full lengthening of the blade to eye relationship, but put the metal that was deformed back in place from the edge fullering of the (i want to say") the bottom of the axe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Don,J.Austin is a genius!But this here axe is different,and has a logic of constructing it all it's own.Also,Jim's technology requires quite a considerable bit of skill as well(maybe more! ) I agree whole-heartedly, but y'all still need to watch this vid, if only for the inspiration: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYBOY Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 ..There are so many different ways to make an axe..Though many of them requires honed forge welding skills..Ive reasearched colonial/trade era/fur trade constructed axes for a while now..Most Axes earlier in history were forge welded in some way. Though that was more due to the materials on hand than anything else..Back then they had to conserve good steel so the body was usually wrought.. *Heres the way I do a punched eye..Ive done so many of them I could do one in about 4 heats..Takes Lisa longer though.. * Mark the spot to be slit with a cold chisel....On both sides, that way when you pucnh thru both sides you can meet in the middle.. *Start with a hot slitter.. * Then you'll meet in the middle...With practice it will end up like this everytime...Ive tried other methods but Im just too practiced in this one..4 heats thru a high carbon steel bar is good enough for me ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Another way is the "Wrap & Weld" method..This method was very common. Just involves wrapping a low carbon bar around a drift to form the eye..Then welding that up with a high carbon bit.. Heres a pic where you can plainly see the bit and weld before forging and clean up.. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This spike hawk started as a piece of wagon rim..Comepletely forge welded to form the spike, cheeks and eye..High carbon bit welded in..Just another way to make one.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYBOY Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Also here is the other video mentioned.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Thanks,guys!There's one heck of a bunch of axe-making info here,on this one page!I feel for Steven,it's some intimidating skill/tool level(to me it is for sure).But that's how it is,Steven,with the type of an axe that you've asked about. However,these several other methods were also covered,so that now you can make a quite an informed choice. In regards to the specifics in the videos,sorry,i can't watch them myself-the band-width here is insufficient...(Well,if i let them load,and not use the computer for a couple of days,AND,nothing happens(connection outage,et c....). But yes:Drilling is commonly done to guide the slitting action,even by some commercial producers(Marble Axes has a model or two that are entirely eye-ed by drilling,3 holes in series). Fullering-wise,Jeremy,yep,there's much fun and games to be indulged in,in maintaining/differentiating the mass of the bit...All in all,axe forging is pretty intense!!! Great forging everyone,and thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 this has indeed been a very informative topic, another reason to keep coming back to this site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 That "power hammer" in the Granfors video reminds me of the stamp mills used in hard rock mining- just fitted with dies pretty cool. And there is your answer he shows you how its done and like Jake said- buy one from them you can't go wrong with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 buy the book "swedish blacksmithing" it s written by someone who studied with a gransfors smith and it has a step by step for axe forging, or just make like a hot cut but draw blade out more downwards, and put the appropriate eye shape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Monty,thanks,that sounds very interesting,...But!Please,give a little more data when recommending a particular book(or it's very hard to find,and may cause all sorts of confusion ) If you'd ever seen,or especially made,one of these slitters,i'd,for one,Love to see even just a crude sketch of the physics expected of it. Sorry to sound somewhat curt,but we are having a technical discussion here,so it'd help to be as precise as possible The guys in the Axeshmieden video are Havard Bergland and Ovind Clausen.They're some of the hottest axe-smiths in Sweden.(I believe that the king has recently held a ceremony publicly honoring Havard for his achievements in everything that Havard has done for crafts and their preservation,excuse my hillbilly-style re-telling of this incident,just heard some gossip to that effect). Anyhoo,H.Berglund has recently published a book on Forging,i believe,in general.It's out in Sweden,and is being translated into English,to be published soon.I'm ill-informed about it,could already be out.Would really appreciate any news of it,if anyone has heard. BTW,the axe that these two are forging in that 3-part video is a very specific tool,used for the "Norwegian"(so called sometimes)style notching of houselogs.A sheep's-head,as it's known inthe US.Actually,that's exactly what that logbuilder in end of the GB video is carving there. The collective name for those style tools is Bilo,in Swedish,there're a 3-4 different ones made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Monty is referring to this I think http://www.iforgeiro...us-translation/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I must admit being put off axe making after buying a few gransfors axes (for about 3 years) .....I mean what is the point......... the point is that axes are cool and challenging and like every aspect of the craft they need to be explored! there are many methods , many merits and many problems . the axe still remains as one of mans most efficient cutting tools , all that weight right behind the head on a long handle .......pure genius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian.pierson Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Here is a site that sells the swedish blacksmithing book. It should take you right to it. They show the publisher as Gransfors. I wonder if it is the same people as the axe. The cost is 53.00 and is in English. I will have to put that on my buy list.http://www.artisanid...tm?id=1044&cid= Brian Pierson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hey,that does seems like a neat book.Thanks,John,for your comprehensive review of it. Brian,thank you for the link.Yes,it must be the GB publication,as one of the co-authors is Lars Enders,he's a tall,sandy-haired gentleman in a few of their videos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Owen,i feel bad,as under no circumstances would i ever discourage anyone from tangling with axes(my absolute passion among all forged objects),...EXCEPT for that one,specific,method,the GB style. Given the nature of Steven's question,i judge him to be somewhat new to the biz,and so felt like a fair warning was in order. Most of us here,with much experience under our belts,still stick to those homely eye shapes that are wide and squat.Those Swedish slitting methods are a bear,man...In that "...lodge construction,et c..." GB video,you'll notice that Lars and that beautiful viking maiden do Not show the slitting sequence(it's already slit,and they re-open it after welding the bit in).There's a reason for it,it's gruelling... But i'm still sorry to've possibly said anything to discourage anyone,didn't mean it that away This was my chore for today-to cut upart,and to re-blade this bowl-carver's adze(that i've exploded in the water quench some time back).Here're the parts,ready to be rivetted together for staying put while being welded.On the right is the crack-filled blade that i've hacked off prior.(The adze is a pavement-breaker bit,the new blade is a section of a broken cheap Chinese axe). A few heats later,it's a tool again.But note how conservatively square the eye section is.It's not the most elegant distribution of mass,GB does have the right idea,but,darn it,that's where i'm at... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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