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Drill Press


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Some things you should to be aware of with import drill presses.

The chinese motors sometimes don't last much longer than one turn on.

The drill chucks are usually JUNK.

The Tables are prone to breaking off at the attachment point to the column if a lot of pressure is used when drilling.

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along with the press I mentioned above I also have an old craftsman setup that uses the heavy duty 1/2" Craftsman electric drill mounted to a spring return frame. The drill is only one speed but its slow- 200 rpm maybe. I have this mounted to the wall and mostly keep it set up with a countersink in it. Since it was free, it is very handy as I don't have to change bits when drilling and countersinking for screws!
Also, you may have heard of Lorelie Simms (sp?). She just released a book called "The Backyard Blacksmith" earlier this year. Since she is located 3 hours south of me, and since I was in the neighborhood one day, I stopped in to get my official signed copy of her book and to check out her shop. IIRC she had either three or four drill presses set up so each one could be used in a different operation on the same project. Then again she runs a full time shop and the time savings are justifiable....just something to think about.
-Aaron @ the SCF

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Almost all new small shop machinery in the US is imported. It is not all crap. You just have to shop intelligently. If you buy cheap, that is what you will get.

With all due respect to us blacksmiths, we probably aren't the best resource as a group for comparative shopping of new machinery. I recommend you spend a little time on the practical machinist board: Practical Machinist - manufacturing and machinist forum - home page

In particular, I did a search for "drill press" on the older general forum subject area to get some hits. You might want to do your own search to see what you come up with.

Of those topics, you might be interested in the US audience views on current domestic choices:

Welcome to the Manufacturing Forum: Made In USA Drill Press
Welcome to the Manufacturing Forum: Selecting drill press size/quality

Here is a discussion on Jet/Enco:
Welcome to the Manufacturing Forum: Drill press -- Enco vs Jet , etc.

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I have a 3/4" jet DP I bought at an auction, 2hp dayton motor!

The handiest thing about it is the crank table. I have a vise that mounts to that table and I can crank it to just the right height for filing so I'm not hurting my back or can even sit while working.

Bought it around 1983 when all the small machineshops were going out of business in OKC due to the oilfield crash...Could have picked up a 4'x8' welding table with 1" top for $5 at that auction---nobody wanted to move it...including me!
Thomas

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  • 16 years later...

I bought used drill press but Ian not familiar is it to weak for metal to drill with it.

It sometimes get stuck when drilling holes in hardened steal, is this drill press for woodworking or it is a little bit weak.

I saw videos that you can change conductor on it so you can make motor stronger.

It does not have too much torque I can If I use force stop it 

Maybe there is some issue with motor if it's weak or maybe conductor ,maybe it's designed for that purpose 

I tried to drill steel with 9 mm drill bit less then half inch hole 

 

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Those just aren't very strong drill presses, stalling them is pretty easy. I have one with a more powerful motor so the belts slip if the bit wants to jam. When that happens turn it off and carefully turn the drill bit backwards to release it. It won't chip the bit that way. Just lifting the handle to free the bit chips the edges of the bits, sometimes too badly to re-sharpen.

Frosty The Lucky.

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  If you have a weak drill press, the only way is to start very small and step drill your way to the size you need.  I have boughten used angle grinders like that at junk shops or in lots at auctions.  You just have to accept it and adapt.  I suppose an inventive person with time to spare could adapt a bigger motor to it.

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I would be looking for one with three pulleys/shivs two belts. The two pulley set up spins to fast for steel. I sometimes burn up drill bits with the later mentioned, I think they are more suitable for a wood shop.

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19 hours ago, natkova said:

So it can work for knife holes and something small, I will see to use it for that and use it for wood.

 

On 12/2/2022 at 7:57 PM, Scott NC said:

  If you have a weak drill press, the only way is to start very small and step drill your way to the size you need.  I have boughten used angle grinders like that at junk shops or in lots at auctions.  You just have to accept it and adapt.  I suppose an inventive person with time to spare could adapt a bigger motor to it.

Well I don't have space for bigger drill press I will see can I peck way for bigger holes 

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Even tho it isn't very powerful, it will drill any size hole you want. I don't know what your experience with drilling in metal is, so here are some basics. 

I always centerpunch where my hole is instead of marking with chalk or a scribe.

Drill a pilot hole first. It should be a bit bigger than the flat at the bottom of your bit. I usually do a pilot, if I have a lot of holes, on anything 3/8" and bigger. Its just my habit.

For larger holes, say 3/4" and bigger, you might want to drill a pilot hole first, then a smaller bit, then your final bit. 

Use a cutting fluid. Water works fine for holes 1/2" and smaller, or any size if thats all you have. The fluid keeps your steel cool without hardening it and carry"s away the swarf {fines}

Find the sweetspot for downward pressure. You can feel the point where you are forcing it and letting it cuts easy, not fast. This will enable you to not over heat your steel, not have the bit grab, and not dull your bit. 

Hardened tool steel is often best annealed before drilling. 

No matter the power of your drill press, it has more power and accuracy than a brace and bit or a hand held electric drill. 

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