ajclay Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Here's a drawing with one side removed showing the guide box spacer assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Got a couple more pieces to bolt together today. They turned out better than I expected. It just takes a lot of time no matter how it's done. Thanks for the comments. AJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I have a few suggestions if you`re interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 I have a few suggestions if you`re interested. Sure Bob, I'm always up for suggestions. As with all my projects, when finished, I'll know what not to do. Isn't that the way is usually goes when someone is building a tool they have never used...?? Thanks for taking time. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 If I were bolting that up I`d put some pins in it.A couple of closely fit pins will locate the bars more securely and leave no room for movement.Holding the bars with just bolts will allow a small amount of movement that can cause wear and then more movement. Another thing I`d think about is to use grade 8 bolts to hold it together and use at least red Loctite on the bolts.One other trick that helped in high vibration machinery is to use longer bolts so they protrude enough on the other side to get a nut on them, torque the bolts down then run a nylock nut on the end and torque that too. No lock washers under the bolt heads means better torque and holding power.The loctite holds the bolts so you don`t need the lock washers and the nylock nuts are your cheap insurance policy in case the Loctite gives up. Hope this helps. I really like that you`re taking the time to see to details like blending the mount at the top of the frame and the cut outs on the side plates.I can see this ain`t your first rodeo. Craftsmanship may not greatly improve performance but it takes your game up a few notches and is something potential customers and other blacksmiths notice. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Bob, I like how you think. We're just about on the same track. I wanted to put some hardened washer's under the bolts, I've got some, but just couldn't put my hands on them. I always like to use them to help the fasteners torque correctly. (and they will get torqued) I'm going to have this thing "together and apart" several times before it's all said & done, so I'll be sure to use them. No go on the lock washers that's for sure... And the loctite, that's a good idea. I short cut the job and made the holes the same size as the bolts. Drilling and tapping in the mill makes it easy for a zero clearance fit, or close to it. It's not as good as your suggestion though. I might just have to do that anyway after a few weeks, but right now I'm happy that piece of dung is out of the mill. I really had to watch the weight on the table, so much hanging off of one end... I'll have to make another kind of support before it goes back in.. Something with balls suporting the weight so the tube can move in two directions. It's nothing like a good project to get me excited and put spring in my step. I'm in no hurry and hope to have a nice working hammer and a good looking one too. With the help of you guys, I'll get there! Thanks for the pointers.... Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 I've made some progress on the guide box. Finished slotting the plates so the box sides would stay parallel to each other. It helps a lot to have them plug into each other. I made the slots .125 deep. The main rear plate was T.I.G. welded to the extensions. I kept the welds relatively small and neat to keep things from warping, but they still moved... That's the draw back to welding, it's hard to keep things from moving after they cool off. Weld shrinkage... Machined out the plastic bearing material and counter sunk 6 brass flat head screws to hold it in place. The other three sides are going to have 6 adjustment screws on each to push the plastic in to give a zero clearance on the ram. I deviated from the plans on this. The plans called for using shims to push / hold the plastic in next to the ram. The adjustment screws are a better way to go and will help make up for the guide box squareness too. I'm sure it's going to be out of square somewhat after the sides are welded to the rear plate. The front plate will bolt on to make it easier to install and service the ram. I'm going to use 8 - 1/4 x 28 button head bolts for that. I still have to drill and tap those holes in the side plates. Thanks for checking in. AJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 You are going to have a really neat looking hammer when you get done! Looks like you are taking the time to do it right! Can't wait to see the finished product! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 You know you are going about this all wrong... A junk yard hammer is not suppose to be a beautiful perfectly machined precision thing... Your going to give all us Blacksmiths a complex Lookin really good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 You know you are going about this all wrong... A junk yard hammer is not suppose to be a beautiful perfectly machined precision thing... Your going to give all us Blacksmiths a complex Lookin really good I follow you on that one Monstermetal, a CNC-looking JYH is not the way to go, how many of us will show their rusty-twisty-roughly flamecut-partially tacked-stuff after that Looking really really good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Looks like a really fine job so far. However,you may want to buy stock in Loctite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 I know I'm getting a little carried away on the project, but I like building things. I quit thinking of this as a junk yard hammer even though it may fall into that category. I've never been one to pick up parts and just weld things together, or at least not for a long time. I use to years ago, but it doesn't take that much longer to just build it from scratch. Make the parts, and go forward. My mentors beat that into my thick head.... Welding the side plates of the guide box was a big hurtle. I was scared I wasn't going to be able to keep the sides square with the bottom plate. It took me a day on and off to get it done. Making several tack welds first was the key. Tacked on both sides and it stayed square. I alternated tack welding one side then the other. Then when I started welding I only welded an inch or so and then checked it with the calipers to see which way it moved. Then I'd weld and inch or so on the side I wanted it to move to. I kept letting it cool off so I could get accurate measurements. In the end I was able to keep it within .005. It was a happy day. The other photos show the UHMW Polyethylene plastic and the steel plates. The allen head adjustment screws will push on the plates and hopefully I'll be able to adjust the slop out of the ram and keep it out without to much maintenance. The trick to keeping the bolts tight are a bunch of small things. But the main thing is they need to be drilled an taped straight. That will allow a good torque and give a sold clamp. And too, the parts have to be cut and finished straight and square. Good surface contact, no springyness... Is that a real word?? Anyway, the fancy JYH is a step closer... Thanks, Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 I follow you on that one Monstermetal, a CNC-looking JYH is not the way to go, how many of us will show their rusty-twisty-roughly flamecut-partially tacked-stuff after that Looking really really good The bottom line is, I hope it works as well as a rusty-twisty-rough flamecut tacked together hammer... Thanks, Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 Finished the guide box today. These couple of photos show how I captured the plastic bearing plates. The other end has square bar stock welded in place to keep them from sliding out the bottom. Still staying fairly true to Ron Kinion's plans and design... I'm going to go to work on the ram next. I've got a piece of 1.5 thick plate 6in square to weld on the square tubing. I've got to drink a couple of beers and think about that for a day or so..... The plate is flame cut and I'll have to square it up, radius the corners and bevel all the edges to try and make it look good. It's going to be slow going I know. Also, I've got the spring being made that will do the work. I ordered it from: Zenith Spring Company, 800-448-5779. Nice people. They had the drawings from Ron on the spring. Mine is basically the same, just an inch longer in length.. thanks, Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 FYI - If any of you guys would like specific information on the New Kinyon Air Hammer, parts, pieces, size of materials, or vendors for your new air hammer project, CONTACT - Paul Branch - email - pbranch@nwcomm.net. Nice guy. He'll get you going. I started cutting the bottom ram plate down to size. With luck, I should be able to finish that part today. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I know I'm getting a little carried away on the project, but I like building things. I quit thinking of this as a junk yard hammer even though it may fall into that category. I've never been one to pick up parts and just weld things together, or at least not for a long time. I use to years ago, but it doesn't take that much longer to just build it from scratch. Make the parts, and go forward. My mentors beat that into my thick head.... Welding the side plates of the guide box was a big hurtle. I was scared I wasn't going to be able to keep the sides square with the bottom plate. It took me a day on and off to get it done. Making several tack welds first was the key. Tacked on both sides and it stayed square. I alternated tack welding one side then the other. Then when I started welding I only welded an inch or so and then checked it with the calipers to see which way it moved. Then I'd weld and inch or so on the side I wanted it to move to. I kept letting it cool off so I could get accurate measurements. In the end I was able to keep it within .005. It was a happy day. The other photos show the UHMW Polyethylene plastic and the steel plates. The allen head adjustment screws will push on the plates and hopefully I'll be able to adjust the slop out of the ram and keep it out without to much maintenance. The trick to keeping the bolts tight are a bunch of small things. But the main thing is they need to be drilled an taped straight. That will allow a good torque and give a sold clamp. And too, the parts have to be cut and finished straight and square. Good surface contact, no springyness... Is that a real word?? Anyway, the fancy JYH is a step closer... Thanks, Aj After seeing these photos I now have Dynasty envy. I have used them a fair amount. Wish I could afford one. How do you like yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 After seeing these photos I now have Dynasty envy. I have used them a fair amount. Wish I could afford one. How do you like yours? It took me a few minutes to figure out what you were talking about. You do like me, looking in the back of photos to checkout what the guy has or is doing. I can tell you one thing, out of the several welders I've owned over the years the Dynasty 700 is the Cadillac of them all. 3phase and has it's own radiator to cool the water. It will do anykind of weling you want. It's alway fun to pull out the profax SR-12 torch that uses 3/16 tungsten and see someones eyes get big. I've only used it on a few occasions, that guy is a MAN... It can make a big puddle in thick aluminum fast... My main torch I use 90% of the time is the SR-18. The machine seems to handle dirty or contaminated aluminum better than miller's Syncowave machines. Better arc stabilization and control. It's something you can really tell if you own one of the other machines. Don't mean to talk to much about it, but I do love to weld...!! Thanks, AJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 What kind of machine are you using there? Looks like a CNC. Are you conventional cutting or climbing? Looks like conventional, but hard to tell for sure. That's one thing I like about my CNC is the ability to climb nearly all the time. It's the preferred direction on a CNC and makes a better cut with no gouging and gives longer tool life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Looks like he`s using a hogging cutter.That`d explain the less than glass smooth cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 What kind of machine are you using there? Looks like a CNC. Are you conventional cutting or climbing? Looks like conventional, but hard to tell for sure. That's one thing I like about my CNC is the ability to climb nearly all the time. It's the preferred direction on a CNC and makes a better cut with no gouging and gives longer tool life. Yep, you got it. I'm using a one inch 5FL, HSS roughing end mill. I was trying to get a handle on the speeds and feeds. And yes it's conventional milling. What you see is about .020 from finished size. Cutting that square was like watching paint dry.... Machine ran for 6 hours after I hooked up the oil hose to cool and lube the operation.... The finish cut I use an 1in 4FL HSS end mill. I've got a lot of experience on a manual mill, very little with a CNC mill. So much to learn and only 11 hours of daylight.. My mill is a vintage 1978 CNC Wells Index knee mill. It's about 25% larger/heavier than the common Bridgeport Knee Mill. It originally had an old IBM type computer with no computer screen. The old cpu was burned up so I got a deal on the mill. It was a gamble that paid off. I converted it over to a PC controller running Mach3, and hung a nice screen and keyboard on the side. It has the original stepper motors Wells Index put on and I'm using Geckos to drive them. The mill is in overall great condition. I still start and stop the spindle manually. The electrical box on the right side has a million relays and wires. I have a good many traced out, but I just ran out of strength to automate the spindle motor and coolant. I attached some photos of the mill as I was cleaning it up and adjusting last year... Also a photo of the square plate. Not the finished product with the regular 4FL end mill, but I was getting close. I'll snap a photo tomorrow, it still has a couple of blemishes on it but I'm tired of cutting the outside. It's going to have to live as is. Tomorrow I may cut a chamfer around the top side. Just depends on how I feel.. Thanks, Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Cool! I made the transition from manual a dozen years ago. Looks like a good conversion. You'll have lots of fun with that. If your ball-screws are in good shape, you might want to get used to climb-cutting, kinda scary at first. It's the preferred direction for CNC. Much less strain on the feed as the cutter is pulling the work through so the servos only need to control the feed speed. Better finish, longer tool life are two advantages. Also the forces are pulling the cutter away from the part rather than into the part, so there's no gouging when it turns corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 Cool! I made the transition from manual a dozen years ago. Looks like a good conversion. You'll have lots of fun with that. If your ball-screws are in good shape, you might want to get used to climb-cutting, kinda scary at first. It's the preferred direction for CNC. Much less strain on the feed as the cutter is pulling the work through so the servos only need to control the feed speed. Better finish, longer tool life are two advantages. Also the forces are pulling the cutter away from the part rather than into the part, so there's no gouging when it turns corners. I just went through and cleaned / re-adjusted the Gibbs a few days ago and on cutting the plate I could really tell the difference. I had it all apart last year but it was just so dirty. I washed and cleaned on that machine for a couple of days, and since, it loosened up a little. I had all three gibbs out then too.. The ball screws seem to be fairly tight. The backlash is less than .001. The oiling system was still working when I purchased the machine.. That's what saved it despite the lack of maintence... Today I wanted to do the finish cut climb milling, but I couldn't put my finger on where to change direction in the Cam Software. The learning curve is steep on software for me. I'm learning, and have made good progress, but still have a long way to go. Each job no matter how simple it may be I pick up something and gain confidence. Seems on this mill I always end up around 60-75SFM. That was another thing I had to learn and work on.. Speeds and Feeds. It sure is a lot different from turning handles.. No feel.. just have to go by the chip color, sound, vibration. Thanks, AJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primitiveprecision Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 I am a new member and have been following your hammer project closely. I am still using primitive methods of forging but am on the prowl for a power hammer of some sort. I look forward to your hammer in action and will observe the continued progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 I am a new member and have been following your hammer project closely. I am still using primitive methods of forging but am on the prowl for a power hammer of some sort. I look forward to your hammer in action and will observe the continued progress. Great, Glad you're in the group. I'm trying to keep my project straight forward and basic. Don't bite your lip, chime in if you have a comment. I was in need of a project to build and a hammer. So it's filling two voids right now.. Thanks, AJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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