cvmikeray Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Well I guess i'll try this again. Typed a long winded post only to loose it. The life of blogging . Anyway I am rebuilding a Champion Lancaster #40 Blower. I picked it up a week ago and thought it was in pretty good condition. The castings and base are good, but the gear box has a few issues. Which were pointed out to me by the seller, and the price was right on the unit. $50.00 so I'll use it to learn these gear boxes a little and see if I can get it back in shape. So if you are hunting a blower do your homework and make sure you getting a solid unit before you go shopping. This unit had been repaired (rigged) at some point and the fan was welded to the output shaft of the gear box. I took a thin cut off wheel on my little buddy (4 inch Milwalkee grinder)and slowly worked my way around the shaft and removed the weld. I even managed to not screw up the fan or the shaft to much. I'll post a few pics of the clean up of the castings. I do not have before pics. Does anyone know if they put a glazing putty on these things before they painted them? Mine had this layer of crust on it that looked to be old body filler or something. Either that or this thing spent many years in a gunky place for sure !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 Here a some of the pictures of the gear box disasembly. You will need a press to get some of these bushings out. I did have one issue where I did not have a good backing on the bottom and put a small crack in the case. I do not think this is an issue since I caught it before it actually broke. I will see. But that is a lesson learned an I hope these pics help others doing this same project. Once I opened the cover I had to figure out how the thing was put together. I saw some set screws and what I thought was a pin. I did not know if it was screwed in or press in. I figured it was press fitted so I tapped it with my rubber mallet and a blunt punch a few times. I got it to move so I grabbed it with the VG pliers and worked it out. I figured out after I got it out that the hole goes all the way through and the pin can be pressed or punched out the bottom into the crank case. Pulling out from the top worked fine also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 I then was able to tap the shaft for this gear out without the need of the press. The angle toothe gear was another matter. It has bushings on both sides. I tried to press the shaft out towards the thin stde of the case and that is when I got a crack. I pressed it the other way and it came out. The issue as you can see in one of the pictures the angle gear has a straight small gear that is the drive gear off the first gear I removed. it has a bushing with a flare on it that only lets it come out one way. So be carefull here. The output shaft appeared to be the same way and I was able to press it out towards the output shaft side. I found that the only thing I am going to need to really fix if the output shaft. I knew this and that is why I took the unit apart. More to come as I figure out how I am going to fix this thing. Havin fun !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesley Chambers Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Im hunting the local markets for a blower at the moment and this is great info and pics! thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 Rounded up enough parts to get this rebuild going. I am painting this one. I have some cool stuff I want to try on the next one. I ended up with enough parts to build to pedistal blowers and one that I will side mount on a forge that I am building Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordcaradoc Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Great work Mike, I picked up a Royal Western Chief blower last year from DiverMike here on the forums. He gave me a smokin' deal and I finally got around to tearing it down to get ready for rebuild. Mike said when he got it that it wouldn't turn, but then dropped it and it started turning and coal fell out of the housing. When I tore it down, I found quite a bit more coal and luckily, no issues with the gear box other than water. Cleaned all that out and jut need to put it back together and mount on a stand and filler up with oil. Regards, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Roy Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Nice set of photos. I always think to take pictures when the job is done. I got lucky a few years ago and found a #40 and paid $40 for it. It didn't turn at the time but after the ice melted out of it, it was fine. It has a different mount than the pedistal shown in your photos. There is an arm bolted to the gear box that gets bolted to the forge. Mine is sitting on the shop floor waiting for the day I decide I need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilton Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I really liked the pictures you posted of what you did. I have a similar gearbox that I have partially taken apart. I have the gear out that had the pin, and the worm gear on the bottom. Can you tell me how you got out the gear that has the bushings on both ends? I have not had any luck getting it out. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 I have the same one got it at the worlds longest yardsale anyone know the right lube for the gear box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 You really only need a little oil. Just enough in the bottom for one of the gears to pick up. Most will leak anyway around the bottom drive axle. If yours leaks a lot, just add a few drops now and again inside. I just use any motor oil handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elemental Metal Creations Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Thanks for putting this on here. I have a champion #40 that works pretty good right now. I will keep this for future ref. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Any one know what the original paint job looked like or even if they were painted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I just won an auction on ebay for a blower just like this, the seller said it works good. I can't wait to get it. very interesting project you got going on there. do you have any tips of what I should do to my blower when I get it I.e. put motor oil in the gearbox paint it etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Oldtimer, paint your blower if you like, or give it a wipedown with an oily rag every now and then if it's outside. The gears turn slowly and don't need a lot of lube. I use automatic transmission fluid, but any thin oil will suffice. Just enough oil in the pan for the lower gear to grab and distribute to the rest of the gears. And enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Would wd40 work to lube the gears once in a while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 WD40 isn't bad, but it's certainly not great. It breaks down fairly quickly and gets gummy. Used motor oil, Marvel's Mystery Oil, 3-in-1 oil, Tranny fluid, even PB Blaster is a better option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Okay, motor oil, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sing_j_ Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 so beside the fan being welded down. Did it slip right off for you or did it give you a little greif? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 They were originally painted red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth miracle Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 You just saved me so much time with this post. I got one of the same model as yours today and it is crusty but functional. I can't wait to dig into it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth miracle Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 What's the best way to get all the caked on grease off the case? Dawn soap, wire brush, chemicals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth miracle Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I picked up this blower from a friends antique shop on Thursday for $150. It worked ok but needed some adjustment and lube. I felt it was a little pricy but it came with the original stand so I grabbed it. During the cleanup I determined that the stand must have been buried in at least 6 inches of mud! I took everything down to bare metal and put a base coat of high heat grill paint in it. I started working on it Saturday evening and finished late Sunday night it's been a good weekend! Here are some before pics. And here is the after, I also painted the fan red but the pic doesn't show it very well. All I need to do now is make a gasket for the fan housing, put some lent seed oil on the wooden handle and connect it to the forge. So what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Seth, electrolysis is the easiest way to get rid of the gunk and rust if you have a bucket big enough for the blower and a car charger. Any grease-cutter will work, though, if you don't mind getting dirty and spending hours scrubbing with a wire brush. On small stuff that's really covered with grease, I like to let it soak overnight in soapy water so the gunk can loosen up a bit. Unless I go straight to the electrolysis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Good Morning, Seth Elbow grease is the main ingredient. Create an area where you can clean up later, clean all the parts in solvent, varsol, kerosene, Diesel or what-ever you have available (Gasoline also works, but the fumes are VERY flammable). Do the initial clean-up in a WELL VENTILATED area. A bucket or tin can to contain the cleaner, a wire brush, a paint brush, a scrapper or screw-driver, soap & water (warm water works better). Lay out an old shirt (or whatever you have), to sit the parts on to dry. If it doesn't come apart easy, look for what you missed undoing!! :) :) Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth miracle Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Thanks guys I tried the degreaser route and busted my mop bucket lol ended up using a 3M paint and rust removal wheel to remove the bulk of the gunk and brushes, tiny screwdrivers and a paint scraper for the rest of it. It came out great I used it the other day and man does it work well. Got some gasket maker to keep the lube in the gear housing? Well I put it through the paces the other day and all is well. I only need to add a gasket to the gear housing to get the lube in there. It made a huge difference in the control over the amount of air going into the pot! I felt much more traditional, so glad I got this blower! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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