harborfreight anvil?

[cj112674]

Harborfreight has a few for sale. I know harborfreight isn't known for quality tools.. I believe they have heavier ones but here is a link to the one I found online. It's a 55 pounder. http://www.harborfreight.com/55-lb-anvil-806.html It would work for now and at least I could get an idea if it;s something I want to try, Blacksmithing that is. Any objections or comments about the anvil, to cheap? I'd bet my life that it's made in Korea but for the price I can't beat it..lol..pun intented. :rolleyes:

[HWHII]

Everyone has to start somewhere. If it makes you happy go for it! B)

[pkrankow]

It is cast iron without a steel face on it. You would be better off with a 50# lump of steel from the scrap yard or 12 inches of rail road track stood on end. Cast iron is soft and absorbs energy making you work much harder.
Phil

[cj112674]

If I were to buy one from there should I round the edges, looks like they might be sharp?

[cj112674]

It is cast iron without a steel face on it. You would be better off with a 50# lump of steel from the scrap yard or 12 inches of rail road track stood on end. Cast iron is soft and absorbs energy making you work much harder.
Phil

so it's a 50 # piece of xxxx then, is that what you are getting at..lol..

[pkrankow]

so it's a 50 # piece of xxxx then, is that what you are getting at..lol..

yup.

What you need is a surface that is larger than your hammer face, somewhat hard to rather hard, with a good amount of mass behind it. If the scrap yards in your area sell to the public go find a piece of steel, 100# is better than 50#, hardenable is better than mild, avoid cast iron.

There are people here who are using a piece of scrap steel or rail as their only anvil, and have little want for a "London pattern". Some ancient stake anvils were only about 15# and driven into a log for the added mass.

Check out the rebound test on AnvilFire.com

http://www.anvilfire...vils%20Hardness

Don't get hung up on an anvil looking like a specific pattern.

Phil

[Dodge]

To Harbor Freight's defense, their description says it's "top grade" cast iron; not to be confuse with common, ordinary, everyday cast iron

Disclaimer: Strong apparent sarcasm was intended here.

Truthfully, I don't know what resources you have available in your area, but generally, the $60 HF is asking for their anvil can buy a large piece scrap that is good quality steel. If you could find some where that does CNC or pantograph shape cutting on plate, you might get lucky and find something suitable for less or even free for the asking.

[ThomasPowers]

on sale for only about 100 *times* what it's worth. They are cast in China and the one we bought to make into a propane stove was NOT top grade cast iron it was about the lousiest cast iron I have ever seen; so much graphite in it that it drilled like black butter! (of course we only paid $28 for it and it was for a Q-S gag...)

A good sized chunk of scrap steel should be a better anvil *and* cheaper to boot! A chunk of damaged fork lift tine can make an excellent anvil especially if mounted vertically so the mass is under the hammer zone.

[bajajoaquin]

Truthfully, I don't know what resources you have available in your area, but generally, the $60 HF is asking for their anvil can buy a large piece scrap that is good quality steel.

As posted elsewhere, I managed to acquire 240lb of steel blocks in my area for $50. Look in the "Materials" section of your local Craig's List.

[don't tread on me]

I had one of those HB anvils and all I have to say is piece of junk. I was forging a RR spike and it made almost as much of a dent in the anvil as in the spike. They are advetised as glueing waights in there cataloge and that is all they are good for.

[ironbudd]

i bought one its ok but it is soft.ok to start with

[BM454]

I would save my $39.99 and put it towards a better anvil. I understand it's not always easy to come up with the money most folks are asking for their anvils but, if you buy a quality anvil, it should do you a lifetime.

[cj112674]

True! Patience is not my virtue though..lol.. But I am going to hold of and slow down a bit and look for a good anvil so I can do the job right. ADD is a bitch.. :blink:

[pkrankow]

http://craigslook.com
this may help
Phil

[bajajoaquin]

I've also had good success with www.crazedlist.org

[Glenn]

This is where entering a location in your profile helps. Without a location, there may be an anvil available next door and no one knows where YOU are.

[evfreek]

True! Patience is not my virtue though..lol.. But I am going to hold of and slow down a bit and look for a good anvil so I can do the job right. ADD is a bitch..

You might be able to accomplish a couple of objectives with one activity if you have problems with ADD. This is especially applicable for the serotonin deficiency type of ADD, which is common in adults. There have been many reports of success by repetitive motion therapy using treadmills. Sort of a self-medication effect.

The exercise is what I call "hit the X". Get a block of something that is heavy. Even a large rock or pile of bricks will work for a while, especially if you put a rail tie plate on top. Draw a couple of X's on the wide side of a 1x3, or if you want more of a challenge, a 2x3 or 2x4. Take a hammer of an appropriate size, and try to hit the X. Pay special attention to the shape of the hammer mark (should by circular, and not crescent shaped). When the mark gets ruined and obscured, go to the next one. Make sure to move the material under the hammer, and not vice versa. Also, see how high you can raise the hammer and still keep it under control.

Eventually, you will splinter the piece of wood. When you have enough splinters, you may start a coal fire. I knew a master who had his beginning students start each fire this way. It takes a lot longer to make kindling with a hammer than with a hatchet. No fair hitting the edges!!!! Remember, "hit the X".

The Harbor Freight cheap cast iron anvil is ideal for this exercise, especially if you can get a busted up one that another hopeful smith abandoned for cheap.

The repetitive motion of hammering, along with the concentration will do your ADD a lot of good. It will also improve your hammer control.

Note for Thomas: I realize that soft wood does not respond under the hammer like tool steel, and this can result in the development of bad habits for bladesmithing But, I still think that the exercise has some merit for training beginners, and you don't need to build a fire. It may also help ADD. I have been asked to teach blacksmithing to disadvantaged children, most with ADD, ADHD and ASD. This is very challenging work.

[ThomasPowers]

We used to tell them to go dive 10 pounds of 16 penny nails to get them to be able to hit the same spot on a regular basis---something a lot of us did as kids building things.

Learning to hit where you want when you want is quite applicable to bladesmithing the only problem I can see is if they have to make splinters then they may power up over control...

[cj112674]

Wow, great idea actualy! My problem has always been, I dive in head first without researching what I'm about to dive into and I get frustrated and quit. BUT, this looks like an awesome vent, hobby, or whatever I want to do with it. So, I have to force myself to slow down and read up on Blacksmithing. This is something I really think I will enjoy doing. Thanks for all the help!

[cj112674]

http://craigslook.com
this may help
Phil

Thanks Phil, actualy someone on craigslist that shows up in a search from the site you gave me contacted me about selling me one. I placed a "wanted" add on craigslist..lol..dumb luck?

[pkrankow]

Nope, not dumb luck. Engineered luck: ask everybody about an anvil and someone will have one that they want to part with.
Phil

[bajajoaquin]

Didn't someone define luck as the intersection of preparation and opportunity?

[cj112674]

Wow..never really thought of it that way..

[Earthbound Engineer]

Well, it's certainly not a Peddinghaus anvil, but with a little work, it's a good start.

First of all, like the others have said before me: by all means, if you can find a real anvil, buy it! But, if you can't find one or you are strapped for cash, this cast-iron A.S.O. will work for now with some modifications.

As soon as you buy it, take an angle grinder and take that **** paint off of the face and horn. Then, round off the horn a little bit - it should look like a horn, not a duck's bill. Next, get at least a 1/4 inch mild steel plate from your local hardware store or welding supply shop and use JB Weld to affix it to the anvil. This set-up isn't the greatest, but I only use it for knife-making so it works for me.

Good luck.

[arftist]

JB Weld?