Naz Posted May 4, 2010 Posted May 4, 2010 Here are a few tips(arangements) I like in my shop(garage).Simple but useful, the way I like'em. Some I've seen somewhere, some were thaught up while waiting for that cold, thick piece of metal to get yellow. If you have any that you find useful, please post them,I'm always on the lookout to make my life a little easier. 1-Rope tied up on each end of the screw handle. Eliminates that heavy noise when you drop the screw handle. 2-I put my propane forge on my coal forge table.The height is perfect, I have space to put some tools, etc... I still use the coal forge for demos or occasional forge welds at home but having close neighbors I try to spare them from the smoke and smell.(Can't understand why they wouldn't like it but I'm just playing safe). 3-Door(plate) I can put to keep more heat in the forge when the metal doesn't need to go through the other entrance. (I should weld one with pivots). 4-I use a small wood barrel as a tong rest. 5-The "grab and grind" support, I really like this one, the grinders stay pluged in the wall outlet and the vise is near by. I clamp whatever needs grinding , cutting ,cleaning or whatever in the vise, grab the grinder and go. I usually have three but blew the motor off one last week. This one(support) is a chromed piece of flat stock I had that was already bent but you get the idea. 6&7-Adjutable vise forks.(I used heavy angle iron with 3/4" round stock). Quote
pkrankow Posted May 4, 2010 Posted May 4, 2010 I use a firebrick or a piece of kaowool to close down my forge. Better insulation than a plate. I'm going to steal your adjustable bending fork for your vise. That is simple and slick. Thanks for sharing. Phil Quote
Naz Posted May 4, 2010 Author Posted May 4, 2010 I use a firebrick or a piece of kaowool to close down my forge. Better insulation than a plate. I'm going to steal your adjustable bending fork for your vise. That is simple and slick. Thanks for sharing. Phil Right you are, that's what I'll be using from now on also , Thanks! Naz Quote
ThomasPowers Posted May 4, 2010 Posted May 4, 2010 I use a gas grill "cart" for my propane forge, it holds 2 bottles of gas and can be wheeled closer to one work station or another as needed. I simply removed the old grill and bolted a piece of steel across where the grill used to be and place my propane forge on that. If your forge is the correct height it's simple to make a support that slides in and out of the sq tubing the cart is made from. Quote
MRobb Posted May 12, 2010 Posted May 12, 2010 All great ideas. I like the "grab & grind" station and the adjustable bending forks best. I also have a Kaowool plug for the back of my propane forge. Works great. Thanks for posting! Mitch Quote
rthibeau Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 for the grinders, I use long S hooks sized to fit the grinder and hang them overhead off the trusses. This keeps them all ready to go, but out of the way. The outlets are overhead also so no cords laying on the floor. Quote
Whittler Kev Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 I can not believe how simple an idea is for the adjustable bending fork. Sorry I'm nicking it : Seriously, thanks for sharing this excellent knowledge Quote
Tiapan Posted June 14, 2011 Posted June 14, 2011 Wow that fork idea is great, especially for me because I dont have a normal anvil but my large post vise can hold that just fine. Quote
Marksnagel Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 Oh yea, the adjustable bending rod jig is a must! No more searching for the right size. Thanks for all your ideas. Mark <º)))>< Quote
cottonmouthforge Posted June 30, 2011 Posted June 30, 2011 i add charcoal powder to the anvil surface. it does not add carbon. but what it does do is it give me a better working time. it prevents heat being transferred from the hot iron to the anvil. Quote
Old N Rusty Posted July 2, 2011 Posted July 2, 2011 Add some of that charcoal powder to the punching process. After you have driven the punch into the work the first time,put powder in the dent. The punch will not stick. Quote
Greenbeast Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 I'm assuming the variable bending fork works by moving the tines laterally and tightening the jaws when at the required distance? In the first pic they're not ready for use no? Quote
Steve Sells Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 i add charcoal powder to the anvil surface. it does not add carbon. but what it does do is it give me a better working time. it prevents heat being transferred from the hot iron to the anvil. Not sure I agree with that, if there is enough on the anvil to really insulate, then its also a cushion for the working force. Quote
Naz Posted July 5, 2011 Author Posted July 5, 2011 I'm assuming the variable bending fork works by moving the tines laterally and tightening the jaws when at the required distance? In the first pic they're not ready for use no? Yup !!! That's the way to use yhem greenbeast. BTW : I'm not the genius behind the adjustable bending forks. I saw and made a pair and posted them here, glad you guys like the idea also ! Naz Quote
Greenbeast Posted July 19, 2011 Posted July 19, 2011 Yup !!! That's the way to use yhem greenbeast. BTW : I'm not the genius behind the adjustable bending forks. I saw and made a pair and posted them here, glad you guys like the idea also ! Naz thanks! i'm definitely stealing that one Quote
forrestcav Posted November 4, 2011 Posted November 4, 2011 ran up on this thread and thought i'd add my somewhat late .02. On the adjustable forks, I have a book that shows using one fork and welding various diameter pipe sections to another piece of angle iron. Creating large diameter scrolling jigs. Quote
Glenn Posted November 4, 2011 Posted November 4, 2011 For those with both a hardie and a prichel hole and a vise on a wooden stump, grab a piece of rod and run it down the prichel hole and a tap or so into the stump. Do the same thing with another rod down through the hardie hole and into the stump. The rods should stick up 2 inches or more above the face of the anvil. Instant bending fork. Quote
John Fe Posted March 2, 2012 Posted March 2, 2012 I use an old BBQ grill (grill removed) for my chop saw. Buid the base so that both shelfs on either side are level with the table of the chop saw. This way it's easy to roll out side so you don't have to put up with the noise and dirt form it in your shop. Quote
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