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Something else I whipped out

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Hello:

Here's a little section of a sword blade in the three core "Viking" style I whipped out today in 300 series Stainless, 1045 and L-6 mix for the centre cores in a twist/counter-twist pattern (real easy and simple...early type composite constuction) with a 1060 edge... The contrast came out really nice..the blade is some 31" long, 1 3/8" at the guard and 1 1/8" at the tip ogive....Came OK if ya ask me...

Had to take a break from all that Japanese stuff I am doing for book IV for a while...now I am on the Euro stuff again...I just love my fly press for fullering...makes things soooo much easier...you can feel the steel move when you fuller...the control is marvelous.

You can't tell in the photo but the 300 series stainless just "jumps out" at you..in a very white/silver colour..I gotta learn how to take better photos..still these are a light year ahead of what I was taking before so I guess I can't complain (much...)

JPH

16900.attach

Ok, now I have to pick my jaw up off the floor again. You keep on and I'll have to start sending you my dental bills.

  • Author

This is just something I have been meaning to do so I did it..nothing really all that difficult if you know how to weld decently...That's all it is...knowing how to get a solid weld...

JPH

O.0!!!!! i.....welll....I.....I can't think of what to say!!! That is gorgeous! I love how you present it lol! Ohhh just a little something I whipped out today.....you know nothing much....AHHHH! I can't wait till I am remotely near your level!

That's nice !! I've never done any pattern welding (or much welding at all for that matter) But I imagine it's difficult enough getting a decent pattern let alone having nice straight edges welded along the length for the cutting edge...Did you take any pics of the entire piece ?

  • Author

Hello:

All it is is patience and practise...do not rush things..that's the biggest "killer" you will find..it's all simply welding...once you get the "hang" of that..everything else just falls in..

Plus you have to know what to do with it once you get it welded..

This is why I put so much stress on knowing how to make a decent knife out of high carbon steel before you start into the pattern welding...cause otherwise you will be making a $50.00 knife out of a $500.00 piece of steel...

If I can do it..as clumsey and ham handed as I am..anyone can...all it takes is practise and learning what the steel will do when you do "X" to it.....There are no secrets to any of this..It's all there for you to explore...just learn as you go..that's really the only way to do it....


As for a overal pic...I can do it but you don't see much blade detail...

JPH

Perspective is nice. Please post the whole blade. Awesome detail.
Phil

Knowledge and practice, lots of both and it shows in so many ways. The eveness of the pattern overall simply awes me.

Sweet blade.

Frosty

You always do beautiful work. I look forward to acquiring a copy of your fourth book. :D

I know a couple of people doing drop deaf beautiful pattern welding but their blades are thick clunky crude things, make you feel sorry for them to spend so much time on a billet and then just throw it away...

We've been waiting on IV for a while now---you big tease!

  • Author

Bro. Thos: Yeah....I know what you are talking about..it is a very common thing among some smiths that they tend to leave the blade far thicker than it should be..I have been guitly of that as well...when one first starts out the lack of experience usually shows itself in the thickness of the blade...

Once someone starts looking deeper and gets into distal tapering and all the other "good stuff" that usually corrects itself..sometimes it doesn't...that's what seperates the ones who are constantly learning and those that are just "happy where they are"...

JPH

Speaking of thickness, Col. H, could I possibly prevail upon you to post a photo of that blade edge-on, preferably with something (dime, penny, ruler) in the picture for scale? And could you tell us what it weighs? I was talking to a Japanese blade fanatic the other day, and he expressed the opinion that European swords (he singled out the Vikings, though Norse would be a more accurate word) were just big, heavy, unsophisticated bashing instruments. I know that's not at all true, but data helps. And I'd consider it very edumacational for my own part, too.

It's always funny when the katanaphiles learn that european swords had an average weight for nearly 1000 years that was about the average weight of a katana *and* they were generally thinner than a katana So using their reasoning their japanese swords are just crowbars too.

In case anyone does not yet have all three of Jim's first three books, here they are:

Amazon.com: Hrisoulas

I have to have all his books. It is not a compulsion, I really can stop any time that I want to, really. Jim hurry I have to have that book! :D

  • Author

Hello:

I will say that once I get this done en toto I will post pics..the wqeightis minimal as the blade is made to fit a set of fittings that were cast from 6th Cent originals and the blades then were very "thin" by "modern standards"..I do know that my Anzano Kanezane sword, made circ 1942 is heavier in weight and much shorter in length...

If any sword could have the term "pry bar" associated with it..it would be the Japanese style sword, as there simply is no fair way to compare it to any European sword as they were used in two entirely different ways. As for the the methods used in constructing a Japanese style sword were not unknown in Europe (or just about anywhere lese for that matter) but they were a way to make iron that was used by every iron working culture at one time or another.

In fact the European smiths were doing much more sohpisticated forgings some 500 to 700 years before the Japanese even really "got into it"....

It's all in how one looks at things...

JPH

love the lines! very crisp look to it and the pattern is very uniform! you make it sound like its a breeze...i hate you!!! no not really lol , well done!

Hello:

Here's a little section of a sword blade in the three core "Viking" style I whipped out today in 300 series Stainless, 1045 and L-6 mix for the centre cores in a twist/counter-twist pattern (real easy and simple...early type composite constuction) with a 1060 edge... The contrast came out really nice..the blade is some 31" long, 1 3/8" at the guard and 1 1/8" at the tip ogive....Came OK if ya ask me...

. . . .

JPH


I'd certainly say so. The overall effect especially the pattern symmetry is stunning. You have a gift. You can be justifiably proud of that piece.

Bill
  • Author

Hello:

Well I hilted that blade..the fittings are bronze done in a "twisty beasty" Viking style motiff with the grip being black horn with silver ferrules on either end. The fuller as you can see runs up under the guard. All in all it is turning out pretty good.

I will be doing the sheath the next couple of days which I am planning on black leather with a silver chape/locket and if I have one laying about a black star sapphire for a throat stone..If I don't..I do have some black onyx I can use...

Will post photos once it is all done.

So far so good..

This one will be up on my web site once it is completed en toto.

JPH

17046.attach

Gorgeous.

How did you get such intricate detail on the guard and, for lack of knowlege of a better term, the butt?

I was wondering the same thing. Please, do tell. It looks awesome. I have been lurking for a while. I had to ask about this though.

I love these forums.

I have to say that when I first read the title of this thread I said to myself 'Hey, I thought this was a family based forum, what is he whipping out?'.:D

Seriously though, what an amazing piece!

Dr. H, ever since the early 90's when I watched your video of the making of the ladder patterned dagger, I became fascinated in blacksmithing (I guess my wife should be talking to you about my 'obsession'). You made it look soooo easy.

Please keep on posting the pictures of your unbelievable pieces to give amateurs like me something to aspire to.

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