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I Forge Iron

JPH

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Everything posted by JPH

  1. JPH

    Book Cover Sword

    hello,,,,I was raised in a multi lingual family...Mum spoke Kurd, some Greek and English with some Farsi.. Dad spoke Greek, English, some Kurd, Afghani and Farsi... My Greek is ok..same with my Kurdish (Kurmanji mostly..some Sorani..)...My Farsi is minimal as is my Afghani Constantinople was a beautiful city in the day...but that whole region is topsy turvey now.. When I deployed over there with the NNG in 2003 to 2006 I had a chance to go and visit with some tribal metalworkers and all I can say is WOW..I was humbled by the quality of the work being produced using a hole in the ground forge and a sledgehammer head anvil..I learned a LOT.. Then again..as I always said..it is the craftsman not the tools that makes the difference.. JPH
  2. JPH

    Book Cover Sword

    JHCC Γεια σας ... Ελληνικά .. Αν ναι, να σας συναντήσω Τζελ Frosty.. If you and the Missus ever get down this way you are more then welcome to stop by...just let us know..I'm easy..We are about 21 miles NE of Tampa on the west coast... JPH
  3. JPH

    Book Cover Sword

    Frosty: When book I came out it caused all sorts of a ruckus in the "mainstream blade forging community".. Oh I caught a lot of heat and even worse.. But all in all...I helped a bunch more people that I cheesed off so who cares?? I sure don't. I just want to get this information out there as I am not getting any younger (been doing this now 50 plus years...) and while there are a few techniques I WILL be taking to my grave, 99% of what I know I will be more than happy to share (and if you can prove to me you will not do anything stupid I will show you that last 1%) as the more folks that do something the better that something gets... That's the way I look at it anyway.. Off to burn some lamb for dinner..it's been soaking in red wine, garlic, olive oil, basil, oregano and a wee bit of thyme for three days before it hits the grill tonight!! Opa!! where is my Bouzouki?? JP (pass the Ouzo) H
  4. JPH

    Book Cover Sword

    Hello This one pattern was a real PITA to get in any sort of lengths over say 12/14 inches..p;us the feather is wavy which poses its own problems as well....but I think I have figured it out.. I will admit this one came out rather nice... Working with the copal was something very different from anything I did before, learned a lot there..but it just "makes" this piece work... As for book IV..I am finishing up a few more sections and then taking photos and doing the line drawings..so it will be a bit longer.. This one is going to be a big one..I will say that and ikt will be covering material that has yet to be covered in blade making.I wonder how many I am going to upset with this one?. JPH
  5. Howdy!! Just finished this one..took me like 8 months or so of a lot of failures and frustrations to figure out how to get a good "wave" in a feather pattern..but I think I finally did it.. 31" blade, double fullers, file worked spine..(wore out 3 files doing it..this steel is tough on files...) welded from 1095/meteoric iron and 1070..great contrast.. I am calling it the "Quetzalcoatl" pattern... hilted with steel fittings and copal grip panels..tuirned out pretty nice for an old man... I am keeping this one for myself.. This one is going on the cover of book IV for certain.. Thought I would share... JPH
  6. Hello!! Here is a peek of one I just finished..and posting under a different heading.,..heh heh heh... JPH
  7. Howdy.. Here is another book IV prototype sword. This one is in Uno-Kobe Shobu Zukuri in Kobuse 1070 with a mild steel core. The Hamon is my Choji type II. Went a little extra on the siya.. All in all came out OK..At least I think so... I just posted it on my site this evening. Hope these photos turn out better than the last ones did.. JPH
  8. FL: I get my steel from two places mostly.. Pacific Machine and tool Steel in Oregon xxxxxxxxx or Security Steel in MI xxxxxxxxxx Telephone numbers are not allowed Hope this helps. jph
  9. Howdy!! At long last...I have finally finished my limited series of 125 Japanese style blades.. This one is number 84/125 ( I used a random numbering system..giving everyone a chance at a lower number..) Hand forged 1070 Kobuse construction ( 1070 jacket wrapped around a soft iron core).. 28" blade..Shinogi-Zukuri..Gold and black silk ito over black same-gawa. Temple lion theme fittings. The siya is wood, with black horn fittings and gold and black finish in my "two tone" style.. Came out OK if you ask me.. I'm FRRRREEEE!!! I'm FRRREEEEE!!! DONE!! This one goes up on my site this evening... along with the other last numbered sword and two book IV prototypes...Sorry the photos aren't too hot on this one... JPH
  10. GNM: You have got to remember that I have been doing this stuff for 50 years..experience means a lot in this line of work..and believe me..I have made more than my share of mistakes and had a lot of things that didn't work out right.. JPH
  11. Geo.. Did you see that 8 pound hammer next to that welded billet?? That is the hammer I use and have used for the last 35 years or so since I worked up to that weight from my 6# one.. As far as wire and tongs vs welding and welding on a "handle"..I use wire as the way I work a handle would only get in the way. By not having a thingy sticking out off of one end I can simply reverse the piece in my forge as continue working section by section.. I am a wee bit old fashioned in a lot of ways... JPH
  12. I know this may not be the answer you are looking for but I have found that I get better results in welding larger sized bundles..I start with 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" by 12" to 18"..(plus I use sheet/shim stock and weld anywhere from 30 to 70 or so pieces the first weld.)...this is a decent amount of material..at least for me and it allows for enough laminate for me to make just about any pattern I wish..plus if I have any excess I simply set it aside for another project..Last time I checked steel usually doesn't go stale.. JPH
  13. Hello: If you are referrig to a blade like he one below I just finished today.. I used a 14" dia serrated wheel on my frankengrinder running at approx 7200 fpm.. Just go slow and work the curve and recurve..Takes a little bit or practice but not all that troublesome once you get the "feel".. JPH
  14. GNM: In answer...I forge the fullers in using my fly press..this does them really spiffy and I can feel the steel move under it as I work..plus it does both sides at the same time.. as for cleaning them up...I use my Foredom flex shaft machine and a lot of those little sleeve sanding bands..it doesn't take more than a few minutes to do if I do my part and get the fuller as even as I can under the fly press dies.. On working that bb material. It is basically some sort of polymer/acrylic and once I get above say 300 grit I start to polish wet up to 3000 then a light buff with black emery and light oil slurry followed by a sewn muslin buff using white tripoli..This brings up the polish glassy smooth and really brings out the colours of the material. Same polish is used for my bovine ivory finishing..here again it gets glassy smooth.. I have been cutting rock since I was like 8 or so...just something I do when I have the time or the need. This way by doing it myself I can tailor the stone to what I require as far as mounting sizes..shape, materials and all that.. Frosty.. THANK YOU for the kind words....those are appreciated.. Well I have a new project I am doing..have to replace that fancy schamancy dagger that just sold..boy that one didn't last..I think this one will be a turkish pattern something..maybe a pillow sword or?? It will be what it wants to be..That I do know...I lay it out tomorrow..I have the 1095, L-6 and the Stainless Steel already on my work bench..just have to cut to size, stack, wire and into the forge it goes..That will be tomorrow.. Back to the salt mines... JPH
  15. Howdy!! Here are four I just finished..two have my infamous bovine ivory, two have some of that bowling ball material that stumbled upon a while back. All are PW and the fancy one is silver mounted and has a 18 ct plus hand cut blue flash labradorite cab set on the sheath throat. Sorted through 10 lbs of rough to find a piece that matches the grip colouration....I think I pretty much nailed it on that. I took my sweet time in cutting it as well....didn't want to mess it up. Not too bad for front yard fancy if ya ask this old man.. JPH
  16. howdy: Here's one of the four I finished today...will post all four under different header.. JPH
  17. Hello.. Well this one started out as a Bowie, honest it did but my feeble old mind started to wander off the path a wee bit..(must be from all the covid infection fiascoes surging around my brains..) and this is what happened....I gotta start to pay better attention to what I am doing.. Forged from 1070 and L-6 with some meteoric iron thrown in just because... 19" long recurved blade in a feather pattern with twin fullers... Doing twin fullers in a recurve is a wee bit nerve wracking.. Forged phosphor bronze mounts and an antelope horn grip,, overall length 25 3/4".. Not too bad for an old man working out in his front yard..Especially when his mind isn't really paying attention to the original task at hand... So what ya all think?? JPH
  18. Hello: Needed to get some hammer time and finish something to get my mind off of the sudden passing of my little brother..So here it is.. More or less a dirk..1095/L-6 mix in my "Solar Storm" pattern.. 15" blade length with twin fullers each side... red bovine ivory grip and phosphor bronze mounts. Turned out petty good considering where my mind was when I was making it.. This one goes up on my website this evening... JPH RKH 1971-2020 Rest in Peace...
  19. Howdy: Just finished this one..It would of gone out to California to that Renaissance Faire in Irwindale....but that is a no-go this year so...Up on the website it goes sometime tomorrow.. This one has a PW blade 22" long in 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern with a single full length fuller on each side./ The fittings are forged and file worked phosphor bronze. The fluted grip is some of that bowling ball material I stumbled onto a while back... Interesting stuff to work..Different I will say that... Sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze with a nice carnelian set into the throat. All in all I say this one more or less works.. Hope these photos work.. JPH
  20. Hello: Looks better than my first one...that's for sure...On the RR spikes..According to Union Pacific..the ones marked "HC" means Higher Carbon..(which isn't saying much) and these are used on the curved sections of track due to the toughness that the small amount of additional C imparts..As it is.. spec is about 35 to 39 pts C which is right at the cusp of almost being able to be hardened..however if you are a bit crafty you can get these to do a wee bit of hardening (I do it and they do cut pretty good given what they are made from)..almost to the point of being a semi decent edge but it sure isn't anywhere near a 1050/60 and or even in the realm of my fave.. 1095.. I make mine a bit different from most folks as well... At least yours LOOKS like a knife and for a 1st attempt..that is a very good thing....Keep at it you'll get there... JPH
  21. good idea..establish a skill set that you can use,,and believe me..even then you will constantly be adding to that skill set..I still am and I weld up some really weird materials sometimes. JPH
  22. Hello: Apparently you didn't quite get what I was saying... You are getting in way over your head without knowing basic forging techniques..give yourself at least a good six months of steady forging..What degree of hammer control do you have? Did you learn how to upset, draw, bend, taper. curve..make a bar thicker as well as thinner ???. ..you WILL need these skills (and a few more) when you start welding... You will also need to know the working temp ranges of the materials you plan to use..get too far apart on those and you will be fighting weld shears and worse.. Just take your time and do not rush anything.. That is the kiss of death as far as doing PW work..rushing.....if you want decent results you simply can not ramrod through the process... It requires a good bit of patience sometimes,.,even then..it can be a bit trying... JPH
  23. Hello: As others stated...you can simply wire them in place..I have been doing this for a wee little bit and that is what I have done from the start..I tried even using SS hose clamps but using the techniques that I do they welded to the surface so it's been wires all the way.. I start out with billets 12" to 18" in length 1 1/4" sq and a layer count of between 60 and 75 depending..usually of 1095, L-6 and some ss heat treat foil for colour..gives great contrast by the way.... But I gotta ask...if you don't know really how to make a decent knife as yet (it will happen as you gain experience)..why would you want to make a $10.00 knife out of a piece of $500.00 steel?? Just curious.. JPH
  24. Hello: Well thanks to this idiot stay at home stuff that is going on I am finishing all the higher end stuff I usually send out to my E-Vile minions to sell at the various shows I have them displayed at..and posting them for sale on my site. So here's another one from the Old Man's front yard... Pattern Welded Dagger in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern (It has a repeated series of X and O running down the centre of the blade) Blade is double edged and is 17 1/4" in length and welded from a mix of 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron for grins and giggles.. Full length fuller each side. Forged and file worked/roped phosphor bronze fittings.. The grip is some of that bowling ball material I scrounged up a while back and that is hand fluted. The oxblood leather sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze with a 27.91 ct star ruby set on the sheath throat.. This one has an overall length of 24" All in all it didn't turn out half bad for an old man, considering.. Goes up for sale this evening on my site along with the other two fancy ones I did a while back...if all goes as planned that is... Hope the photos work.. JPH
  25. Howdy!! While ya'all got the mostly of what I am talking about as far as the liquid flux..most folks will benefit from the borax and boric acid mix.. Now... I will admit that I add a few other things to mine since I am welding some heavy weight alloy stuff (and that stainless can be a real bugger.)...but the basic idea is the same.. it does get "down in there" and I feel that it makes a difference.. and when you do a surface application of the same basic flux it really does help...but here again..I ain't nobody of any sort of importance..just an old hammer head working in his front yard. All I know is that it works for me.. Hope this helps... JPH
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