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Wierdly strong metal

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Looks like a roll formed fake hammered bar. Probably a little harder from cold working.

Looks like oldstyle rebar as in 80+ years ago. Some of them are high C but not absurdly high C in my experience

That is what I was thinking. Some of the rebar was re-rolled railroad rail as were the iron frame box springs you still see.

I cut one of the old bed frames before I knew this and used the material to make a stand for a portable coal forge. I had a misserable experience cutting and welding the stuff and blamed my self.

whats that?


It is a texured steel bar available from companys like Wagner. It is run through a mill cold, which puts those marks in it. It is supposed to look like it was hammered. I doubt it actualy has a high carbon content, it is just workhardened from being cold formed. If you want to be sure either aneal it or do a spark test.
  • Author

well u see it takes ages to get up to heat,wen i anealed it it was still extreamly stong and i flatened out a piece over a hole day and i put it in the vise and bent it to about a 50 degree angle and it shot back like a saw blade does.i know its high in carbon because it puts out a horrible amount of carbon.i made a chisel from it and i havent even hardened it yet and ive used it in concrete,metal and it still has a sharp edge without any dents or damage done to it.i doubt it that its an old form of re bar because its got a high pitch pin when u hit it and its very bright with a spark test

Considering your location I would not be suprised if it was chrome Molly steel re rolled from one of the scarped ww II ships.

Australia and New Zeland salvage a lot of that material for darn near everything after the war because it was cheaper than Importing form europe and USA.

Damascus Mike
That's called " scale "
Bloke , go to the " get started in blacksmithing " section , read UP on everyting , then come back with your questions please

I love it! DMike, I'm going to put 'wierdly strong' in my top 10 list of descriptive adjectives..Carry on, Govn'r.

It sounds interesting though. Let us know if/when you find out.

  • Author

well u see my tutor told me that wen u hit hot metal carbon or that grey flake stuff flies off is carbon

mabey u guys call it scale but we call it carbon

Hammerscale is black iron oxide, it has is no carbon. If you're getting a lot of scaling you are probably using or blowing your fire wrong.

Out of interest, what heat are you working this at?

well u see it takes ages to get up to heat,wen i anealed it it was still extreamly stong and i flatened out a piece over a hole day and i put it in the vise and bent it to about a 50 degree angle and it shot back like a saw blade does.i know its high in carbon because it puts out a horrible amount of carbon.i made a chisel from it and i havent even hardened it yet and ive used it in concrete,metal and it still has a sharp edge without any dents or damage done to it.i doubt it that its an old form of re bar because its got a high pitch pin when u hit it and its very bright with a spark test


old rebar is high in carbon some new stiff isnt all that low carbon too
it must be welding heat or it wont move any metal


That would make sense if you're meaning a 'high welding' -- bright yellow to white -- (as opposed to 'low welding').

Remember that for heavier sections of stock -- over say a half inch (12mm), as this seems to be -- it needs to 'soak' in the fire for a while otherwise the core of the bar won't be as hot as the outside. It's like cooking a chicken; if the oven's at too high a temperature the outside can be burned to a crisp but the inside still be that 'gastro-intestinally interesting' pink stage... Considering that you seem to be getting a lot of scaling I wonder if the fire (or the part you're using) is oxidising. You can get a hot fire easily this way but it's easy to heat the bar too quickly so there's not enough time for the middle of the bar to get as hot; the outside of the chicken is cooked but the middle is still pink.
  • Author

yes i know and with this metal i have a to leave it about 2 to 3 minuters longer than i would think i would.what r the ways of telling if the fire is oxidising too much?

What is a side feet forge?


maybe side feed ?? location of burner ??

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