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I Forge Iron

Latest Forged Bowl


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Hi Guys,
Here's the latest bowl I have made, it's from 10mm (3/8") MS plate and is 160mm (6 1/4") dia. All hand beaten, sunken into a wooden block, then raised on a ball-stake.
I donated it to be auctioned at a local festival to raise money for the bushfire recovery efforts.

Hope you like it.

Cheers,
Paul

12591.attach

12592.attach

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Well it can be cold formed, but not by me with a hand hammer, that's for sure. Believe me on this one BH, it moves a LOT easier if you heat it up. The copper is done hot too, since that was a piece of 6mm (1/4") copper cable it was too hard to do without annealing. I did make the rivets cold, though they were from soft wire.

Thanks,
Paul

very cool, was it cold forged? can metal that thick be cold forged? It is beautiful
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Thanks for the comments guys,

Frosty, there's a solid days hammering in it, then a few hours finishing of and fitting up, it's quicker if I production line them (ie. forge a half dozen at a time, then do the dressing and fitting another day) but this was a special for the bushfire relief.

Cheers,
Paul

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Doing multiples a step at a time is always faster, same set up for each.

Still it's a lot of hand hammering and a pretty large piece of hot steel to be standing over.

Beautiful work, I hope you charge a mint for them.

Frosty

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Indeed nice work ! I have a fair amount of bowl/plate forging experience. 12-14 ga sheet. Holding/hammering to start that bowl in that thickness at the heat it would require to move it is not cool work. The right height of the tooling related to smith would make a big difference. Makes my elbow hurt thinking about tooling being too high or low. I have pretty much zero experience flipping and raising. The stuff i do is for some folks that have a mail order biz. Their stuff. This is actually the first time I have talked about bowl forging on a forum. A good 3 lb rounding hammer might bounce on your bowl. There is one heck of a lot of energy involved in getting that blank started and formed ( hot and especially on wood tooling ). thanks. and btw, the other stuff ( file/chisel work or however you did the bowl edge) and the copper inside are more than impressive. Very nice work.

Edited by Ten Hammers
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Hi TH,
You may well be surprised as to how easily the material moves when you get it hot enough. The first bowl I ever made from plate was done in 8mm (5/16") MS, and I only used a 3lbs ball-pein for that one. I have since gone on to make some bowling hammers (see attached) for the sinking part. They have a bit more weight behind them too. I just use my normal 3lbs forging hammer for the raising. As for the working height relationship of tooling to smith, I agree it does make it easier on the body at the end of a big day.
The edge decoration is as many suggested, file-work. It's such an effective technique, very easy to do once you know how, but accurate layout and sharp files is the key, one slip and your gone!

Cheers,
Paul

Indeed nice work ! I have a fair amount of bowl/plate forging experience. 12-14 ga sheet. Holding/hammering to start that bowl in that thickness at the heat it would require to move it is not cool work. The right height of the tooling related to smith would make a big difference. Makes my elbow hurt thinking about tooling being too high or low. I have pretty much zero experience flipping and raising. The stuff i do is for some folks that have a mail order biz. Their stuff. This is actually the first time I have talked about bowl forging on a forum. A good 3 lb rounding hammer might bounce on your bowl. There is one heck of a lot of energy involved in getting that blank started and formed ( hot and especially on wood tooling ). thanks. and btw, the other stuff ( file/chisel work or however you did the bowl edge) and the copper inside are more than impressive. Very nice work.

12598.attach

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Paul,

Glad it made your reserve and you can sure be happy it went ot a great cause. When I went down there with the RFS it was an amazing landscape, just like the Canberra fire but much bigger. Amazing to not see at least something green after a fire. Those people need lots of help to get going againand you have surely done lots for the cause.

Cheers

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Paul,

During the comment string someone mentioned the the edge finish was file work. Was it actually file work? I only ask because you didn't mention that in your description. The edge work combined with the copper "dressing" makes this work truely unique and great piece of work. Thanks for sharing it.

Bob

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