nelson Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Hi Paul, Your bowl is simply gorgeous! Excuse my ignorance, but what do you do to keep the wooden forming block from catching on fire with the red hot steel you beat on it? Incidentally, you`re probably the right blacksmith to ask this question: could a cooking pot be forged the same way, and would the mild steel used be appropiate for cooking, say once the pot`s been cured? Any input will be appreciated. Nelson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 (edited) G'day Bob, The edge decoration is all hand filed using only two files. I love the combination of copper and steel, they work very well together and copper is so easy to work with. Take a look at my website (http://sefiiraforge.com.au) and you can see a couple more bowls with copper elements. Cheers, PaulPaul, During the comment string someone mentioned the the edge finish was file work. Was it actually file work? I only ask because you didn't mention that in your description. The edge work combined with the copper "dressing" makes this work truely unique and great piece of work. Thanks for sharing it. Bob Edited March 26, 2009 by Quang0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 G'day Nelson, There's plenty of smoke and fire when I'm sinking a bowl alright, the flames only kick up once you stop hammering. They're no real problem anyway, since I'm already hanging onto the bowl with tongs. I can see no difference in using a MS pot for cooking with than using a steel wok. Once it's seasoned you should be fine. Plus, who isn't lacking iron in their diet these days! PaulHi Paul, Your bowl is simply gorgeous! Excuse my ignorance, but what do you do to keep the wooden forming block from catching on fire with the red hot steel you beat on it? Incidentally, you`re probably the right blacksmith to ask this question: could a cooking pot be forged the same way, and would the mild steel used be appropiate for cooking, say once the pot`s been cured? Any input will be appreciated. Nelson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Paul, Ditto to all of the compliments above, and beautiful work on your website as well. While we are here, would you elaborate on the "raising" process just a bit? I am familiar with "sinking" from doing spoons an ladles... in a wood stump, as well. I have never (intentionally) raised a piece on a stake. I would like to know more about what is going on with that. Thanks, Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Beautiful work Quang, and my hat's off to you for the cause for which it was made! I don't want you to teach a bowl making class her, (unless you wish ) but I'm curious about how you start a bowl from flat. I read that you sunk it on a wood block, (I've done some leaves that way) but do you start from the center and work out or start from the rim and work in? Thanks, Scott "Dodge" Scheer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Firstly, thanks to everyone for their comments, it actually means a lot when people who work with iron appreciate your work. Understanding what goes into the work is something that is very difficult to convey to the outsider. I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 I have seen some very good work done in sheet material by panel beaters using puckering irons and the shrinking techniques and books on repousse such as Moving Metal by Adolph Steins explain the processes very well in copper etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Thanks for the post Paul. You've answered my question but unfortunately raised more . Really, just one. When you say you hammer the flutes to shrink the diameter, you also say you can "with sufficient time and patience, forge the material back over its outer diameter". Do these flutes then become material that is forge welded together or simply compressed into adjacent material? Thanks again, and a "drop of red" always seems to help my writing skills! Can't speak for the readers though :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Hmmm, Maybe I didn't explain it as well as I could have, the material isn't so much forged back over itself, but up and over to create a smaller opening than the outer diameter, it is as you said, compressed into the material next to it, thus thickening it. see attached bowl. also made from 10mm plate, but I thinned the edge a little (to 6mm) to make it easier to shrink. Does that make sense? Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 OK, That makes perfect sense and exactly how I was imagining it. Thanks again Paul! And that is another beauty!! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelson Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Hi Paul, Although I`ve never done any forged bowls, it sounds very atractive trying,..some day. My closest guess is that it requires a lot of skill and hammering to achieve such nice bowls. Just curiosity about this last bowl you posted, how long did it take to complete it? My ignorant guess: 6 days ?? Thanks for bowling tips too. Nelson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) Forging a bowl uses the kind of skill that comes with practice, just like any other forging technique, once learned it must be practiced and perfected. The last posted bowl was completed in about two and a half days, from cutting the blank to as you see it here. It took a bit longer than a standard bowl of that size (280mm or 11" dia.) as I had to roll the edge in and that took some doing. Again, all done by hand, sinking and raising techniques. Cheers, PaulHi Paul, Although I`ve never done any forged bowls, it sounds very atractive trying,..some day. My closest guess is that it requires a lot of skill and hammering to achieve such nice bowls. Just curiosity about this last bowl you posted, how long did it take to complete it? My ignorant guess: 6 days ?? Thanks for bowling tips too. Nelson. Edited April 7, 2009 by Quang0 typos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Y Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 Beautifull work Paul. Do you have any photo's of the step by step process of the file work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 To be perfectly honest John, it's not worth getting the camera out! It is one of those techniques that is heavily reliant on accuracy and layout. The filing is done with 2 files only. A round one ( I used a chainsaw file) and a triangle file. The file size is dependent on the stock size for the visual weight. It's a matter of marking out your notches on each side (I use a fine paint marker), then filing with the round until the desired depth is reached, then using the triangle to cut in at opposing angles and then blend them together in the middle. Does that make sense? Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Y Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 It is starting to make more sense now. I haven't tried that effect, but really like how it looks. You do great work, thanks for sharing. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 Cool. there's loads of different patterns out there, and I'm sure loads more yet to be made, it's just a matter of experimenting and playing with shapes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zarc Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 OMFG thats beautiful. I remember doing a copper bowl at collage, out of 2mm sheet and that was a tedious task. Let alone 10mm MS ,Well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Paul gorgeous work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 I like the rim work too... also the rivets are very nice! Did you make the rivets from scratch (i.e. wire or rod). BTW it seems like the kind of piece that is thirsty for a nice rack/holder/mounting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 Thanks guys, With the right tooling, it's not as tedious as you may immediately think. Yes, I make the rivets by hand, from the ones on the second bowl are from two different sized copper wire that was annealed then headed in a spring-type heading bolster then cut to size and headed in the job. Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glug Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Well done, Paul. Elegant, rustic, substantial, organic, skillful and inspiring. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Jake_ Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Inspiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carole Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yeah, they are cool and special. I hope they can help you to raise more money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.