Johnny Woolsey
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When the height is adjusted it hits fine. I am taking it to Quadstate so maybe I get to meet you and you get to try it out!
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Shawn, I am in process of sourcing the anvil. My current hammer has laminated plate that I had as salvage.I am trying to source a cast steel anvil for my larger hammer. Trying to find a spot in my schedule now as well...Shawn, I will preface my response about folks that make there own hammers. We are usually super proud and our hammers are the BEST! I have a modified design from the plans I bought from Jerry Allen. I have plans to build a 150# version . Friction drive, adjustable height, adjustable stroke guided helve. The 75# hammer I currently have is quite controllable. The footprint is a lot larger than the uprights with the Dupont linkage.(And Clay Spencer is a hero of mine BTW!)
Try texas metal industries and look in handrail section. www.txmetal.comGladiator doubles as a workbench ....I could probably get by with smaller though...I use a metal wax from Sculpt Nouveau. It is not cheap but dries quickly and has proven very durable. Your mileage may vary. J. WoolseyThanks folks.I did make a swage for my hammer Peter. I do as much as I can with the power hammer. I had 16 of the pulls and 4 of the wedge assemblies to make.I also made the hardware to hang the doors. I will get some photos when I am finished.Exactly Jeremy. I found it mch more presentable than my attempt at pulling a tenon on the ends.They are for barn style doors. The building is really just a party or get together place and the doors will be closed most of the time.They will screw to the doors and when closed the wedge keeps them that way.They will be at the bottom and will also assist in keeping the doors aligned where they come together. The doors get a pull inside and out.Hello folks. I have been working on a project and thought I would share some photos. Rings are 61/2" and I started with 1 1/4 round.Hello folks. I don't post a lot but I really appreciate all who make up this great group especially Glen and the folks who make it a class act. I wanted to make sure folks in and around Middle Tennessee were aware of our upcoming Conference May 16 -17 in Murfreesboro, Tn. Our featured demonstrators are Brian Brazeal and Elmer Roush along with many great local smiths as well. "Buzz" Busbee is the chairman this year and is really spreading the word and getting folks excited. I look forward to meeting some new friends and enjoying a first class Blacksmith Conference. Come on! Best Regards Johnny Woolsey http://www.appalachianblacksmiths.org/welcome/ I just deleted 3 other posts advertizing this, Three duplitates from the calander by 3 various people and others in two more places in the forum all by many different people. Posting once is plenty. We could conclude that is spamming by your group, please be aware.I just read through this thread and there is a lot of good advice. Moving from a craft to a fine Artist brings some challenges. The fine art market has as large a variety of sales locations and owners and the quality varies greatly. The craftier locations tend to field patrons who are decorating as opposed to making a connection to the work and eventually to the Artist. These folks often become repeat buyers and sometimes friends.Those kind of things are difficult to cultivate at an antique mall. Make sure you determine the value of your work and stick with it. If your work is at a $500 price point it should be the same price to a gallery or to your neighbor or craigslist. You don't want to undercut your galleries but more importantly you don't want to devalue your work! People purchasing fine art are making an investment in you and your work. You will find out soon enough what the market will bear. Do not let folks discount the asking price unless they are making multiple purchases at the same time. I don't know that I really profit in the art galleries but it gives you street cred and helps elevate the value of all the work you do. Good luck and enjoy the journey!
