creek

Thanks everyone for all your comments! Pat, no matter how much air I put in it it just doesn't get any easier to move around and there's plenty of hot air around my shop! Maybe I should use helium! But seriously I put it on the wheel so that it would be easier to move around and to put extra weight down at the base, plus I have a bunch of old wheels layin around so the cost was cut to a lot less. Thanks again everyone! I you would like a drawing and some formulas go to Saltfork Craftsmen site for the Davis' drawings, they deserve all the credit for spelling it out for me and making it simple!

Great job!!!

Here's a couple of photos with the swage black in it. I like the way it holds the block in place at the say height no matter what side it sits on. I worked with it for about 9 hours yesterday and did not have any problems it, what's nice is that you can grab the block from "just" about anywhere and get a good stable hold on it. I can tell a good difference in having steel under the block instead of wood. That could just be me justifying it to myself for building it out of steel but I do feel more stable! Thanks for all the input.

I like the stand! My shop dog has a hard head too, but he won't sit still long enough to form anything on him. Thanks for sharing.

It's been awhile since I've posted anything, been busy but lurking in the shadows. This is a swage block stand I made the other day to replace the stump I was using. Made out of 1.5x1.5x0.25 angle iron, the pipe was 3/8 thick wall, do not know schedule, base plate 0.5" welded to an old steel wheel that was laying out in the dump. This design is based off the Davis' design at the Lazyass Forge. I made some changes so that no matter what side the swage block sat on, the hammering side would be at the same height for ergonomics. The weight and proper height made a big difference in the usefullness of the block. The swage block I have, but not in photos, is the Saltfork Craftsmen. The stand weighs 110# and the swage block weighs 65#. The photos are sideways, sorry, maybe Glenn can fix them

Thanks for posting that! Francis Whitaker had a miners candle holder in one of his books,Beautiful Iron, he has the steps in it cold. He uses 1/4"x1-1/4"x10" and says final forging before bending is 20" long and shop time 1.5 hours. But going by the date he did it , he already been smithing over 40 years, so 2 hours I would say is very good!

Semper Fi Devil Dogs

Very nice job! Thanks for sharing.

I believe at one time on this site there was some pictures of an anvil made from a forklift tine. It might have been a blueprint, not sure.

I've had one for about four years now. It has come in handy from time to time. But like everyone has said, your gonna have to do a little work once you get it, that is how they offer it at the price they do. But it is very nice to have around.

Thanks again Hofi! The pictures and instructions are great. I was also wondering about the knot. I was thinking that there was a blueprint or something of you doing a knot but can't remember.

Another great demo Mr. Hofi! I have another process to get to forging. Going to try it this afternoon.

This is what was posted on The Forge Forum "Long time forge member Jerry Frost has been seriously injured in a tree felling accident. He has suffered major head injuries along with broken ribs a punctured lung, spiral fracture to his leg and broken foot. His condition is critical, and he may not survive. Jerry is at Alaska Regional Hospital in Anchorage, in the CCU Pray for him and his wife Deb."

That had to be an exciting night! thanks for the photos.

Those axes are great! I showed my dad and said he would love to have an ax like that to "scare of the savages that try to steal my wine!" He has quite a collection of wine, over 2000 bottles! What kind of steel did you use to make those? I wish I could get those smooth and eliquent lines of transition that you seem effortlessly display in all of your elements of forging. Thanks again!