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Found 75 results

  1. Hello all. I want to ask anyone if they know what what kind of steel would be common to find in a scrapyard, but grade enough to make a hammer. Ive been doing some minor smithing at a local shop for a few months now, and I think it’s time to make my own hammer. I’ve read articles saying 1045, 4130, 4140, are some of the better steels for hammers. 1045 seems to be a particular favorite amongst smith’s. So here is my question, when I go to the scrap yard, what should I be looking for? What are some applications of some of the metals mentioned above, and does anyone have an specific example about a piece of scrap they turned into a hammer? Any info would really help. Thanks all!
  2. I made my first rounding hammer. I made it from a worn out loader bucket pin. 4140. Water quenched faces. No cracks. Drew the temper with the drift I made. Feels really good to finally get it done. It’s always been my real blacksmith project. Need a tool/make a tool.
  3. Hey guys, beginner blacksmith here. I want to purchase a Brian Brazeal style rounding hammer, like the one Alec Steele uses but I don't know how heavy it should be. I plan on forging candleholders, leaves, bottlecap openers and other smaller projects. If things go well I might eventually try to forge knives. How heavy do you recommend that the hammer should be? 1 kg? 1,5 kg? If you know any good ones, please link me to them (if they ship to Europe, I live in Sweden). Grateful for all the help I can get. Sincerely, Eophex
  4. Jim Poulmas

    Bench hammer

    Just finishing up this bench hammer. It’s about three quarters of a pound. Good addition to the bench for layout and small rivets.
  5. Sanded off all the blue as much as I could getting the original fiberglass handle was tough definitely worth it though took my Dremel and sped the prosses up by an hour. Then I got some pine from a branch that fell into my yard squared it up, threw it in the microwave to get out some moisture and got it fit on the hammer sanded it, and torched it just to be safe with the moisture and put on some Early American finish. (i not sure if this is because of the fact that its green wood and hasn't dried for too long but the handle is really fuzzy looking ?)
  6. Hey guys... I am not sure if this is a Gem or not. My local used machinery sale place has 3 of these air powered drop hammers for sale. I've been watching them for a while and the longer they sit there, the lower the price goes. I've been kicking around the idea of buying one and converting it for shop use as a project. I would offer $900 for one probably. Seems like they would work as a nice small air hammer with some modifications and the addition of a lift/pressure cylinder and some tooling. Good idea or not? Whatcha' think?? Stitch'
  7. Well, it's finally finished. I tore it down Saturday and the wife cleaned and painted it for me. Great gal that one! I ran out of grease zerks and will have to make a run to TSC. I believe the lead shrank a bit after I welded in a "V" shaped stop inside the hammer right after pouring the lead in. I have to figure that one out yet. It doesn't seem to affect the awesome striking power any. Here's the video I made right after re-assembly. I love the control ability. Now to make some specialized tooling for it. Stitch
  8. I made this little jewelers raising hammer as a test project out of my first damascus billet. It has a very low layer count (about 8... maybe 7 after grinding), but I think the pattern is neat. The layers were 1080 and 15n20. Etched in a 50/50 mix of ferric chloride and white vinegar then sanded back at 600 grit. I still need to fit a handle.
  9. I was thinking of trying to find a quarter pein with a Left quarter on one end and a Right quarter on the other. But I need it at a reasonable (if not bargain) price, lol. My financial budget for what is currently only a hobby (read as addiction) is not able to support spending a lot. I've looked for examples of this online and in the forums here, but have had no success. Any suggestions? I've even contemplated trying to forge my own... I have several pieces of 2" round axle material in 4-8" lengths. I know I don't have the resources/help to fully forge it, would have to take shortcuts like grinding the ends to shape and drilling the majority of the handle hole, only heating and forging the elongating and tapering of it. Am I insane for even thinking this?
  10. So I am dressing my first hammer (a small 2.5 lb drill hammer) based on what I have read in various threads. Despite all those description, I am a bit unsure whether I am doing this correctly, so I'd like people to comment based on those pictures. Note that I can't test it yet by beating on hot steel, as I don't have a forge yet. But I'm going to an event next week where I will have the opportunity to do it so I'd like to show up with a useable hammer. Initial configuration of the hammer: After my attempt at dressing it: Should I sand it some more or does it look fine like that? Considering that this is a small drilling hammer, is it worthwhile to make the other end of the hammer into a cross pein?
  11. Hi all. This is my first post...anyway. I'm restoring a old axe head for a friend the blade is going to need alot of grinding to get the pitch of the blade right. Iv heard that that will make the edge prone to chipping if not heat treated properly after. The butt of the axe is horably mushroomed but I want to use the mushrooming to make a good hammer head. I don't know how to heat treat it to get a good solid edge aswell as a sturdy hammer head on the other side? Any advise, comments or questions would be much appreciated!
  12. I recently replaced the handle of a ball pein hammer that has been with me from the start of my auto body career. I dressed up the new handle and got their junk off of it sanded it down and gave it a burned look as well as gave it a beeswax/linseed finish. After all this work and cleaning up the head ( since it had been such a good hammer to me) I thought about why I had to replace the handle in the first place. Over strikes! I don't know if this would happen much in black smithing but there could be times and it's simple to protect a nice new handle from certain unjust cruelty. The fix is simple. A section of leather around just under the head then punch some holes and lace it up. Sure you could wrap it in tape or something but where's the class in that. If you have a tool that's been good to you and you have a little down time why not give it some tlc. You can easily use tape around the hammer where you want the wrap then cut it to use as a pattern. punch some holes and lace it up with some leather cord. A touch of super glue will keep the finish knot snug. ( which I did on a friends I fixed up for him but some of mine need relaced because I didn't glue the knot no big deal.) point is it works. Here's some pictures explaining my point. Again I mainly deal with this with body work getting into tight spots, it's not like I over strike forging on the anvil just thought I'd share in case it could help someone that runs into the issue.
  13. Only information about this hammer was issued by the army during the 1950s weighs about 4lbs cheers
  14. Hello all, I recently purchased and received the 2.75 pound japanese hammer, made by Arnon at Bridgetown Forge. And I have to say that it is quite amazing. The way it moves and feels in the hand is very nice (for me that is). And being someone who has long, thin fingers, the hammer fits well. As far as finish goes, it is a very rustic looking piece. Which I quite appreciate. Something I'd like to point out is that the pictures don't do the tool 100% justice. You really have to feel it for yourself to get an understanding of the tool. I'd like to close by leaving you guys with some pictures of this amazing hammer!
  15. Hello all, I have been working on making my own hammer. This is my first attempt ever with something this big. I used a piece of trans axle I found and just kind of went for it. After about a day and a half of work it all blew up in my face. I think I need to make a better eye punch. I made a drift but figured I could just drive a cold chisel I made from an old pry bar. Was it spreading too much too fast? I tried to keep yellow heat when driving it but it did stick a few time and took some doing to get it out.
  16. I just cleaned up a couple of my great grandfather's hammers and re-handled them and while I was at it I noticed this one had a TK stamped on either side of the head. I know it's well over 100 years old and was wondering if any of you hammer aficionados out there had any idea who the maker was or a possible age range? None of the other hammers had any identifying marks, which isn't surprising as he was a farm smith in the back woods of West Virginia... I'm not expecting any miracles, but it would be neat to know where the old boy's hammer originally came from.
  17. These are a few of the hammers I've been making. Forged from Atlantic 3. Straight pein, rounding hammer and cross pein. All 3lb hamers
  18. I have an old forged hammer that I got from my father's attic in 1969 when he died.I don't know how old it is or what it was used for. It is small, about 4 1/4" end to end.The head has two ends which are flat and each one is the same as the other.We had blacksmiths in our family tree. My 4th great grandfather was a blacksmith in Winchester, Virginia and family tradition says some of his nails were used in the original White House. I don't know if this hammer dates back that far. I would like to know what it was used for and how old it is. Thank you Michael Little
  19. Picked up a box of blacksmith tools this weekend and this old double cross peen hammer was one of the items. It weighs 4.5 pounds and has the maker's name stamped on all four sides. An internet search produced zero results. The maker as best I can tell is D.L & W. WKS.CO. Anyone ever heard of them?
  20. I found a Very old hammer, It was sold as a hammer and then you bought the motor to go with it. I was told it was built 1904 and the company was only in business for 3 or 4 years. I have been looking for info on it and can't find any. Does anyone know information on this hammer. Thanks in Advance...
  21. Forged a couple of hammers today out of 1.25" torsion bar today, one straight peen and one ball peen, both come in around 1 pound, be good for Marcy, and good practice for me before i jump into some bigger ones. Pictures of the ball peen and after they are finished on the way, gonna grind and heat treat tomorrow afternoon.
  22. Zyphiza

    First hammer

    From the album: First complete hammer

    First complete hammer I have made, made it last night, came out pretty nice
  23. I hope I'm writing this in the right section. I picked up this sledge hammer head at quadstate this year for two bucks (along with many others lol), but I don't know a thing about it other then that it is OLD. So I was wondering if anyone knows if it had a specific use or could estimate an approximate age? It seems to be made of wrought iron but does not have steel faces like other wrought iron hammers. I had to make the handle because eye was such a strange shape, plus it didn't seem right to handle it with a storebought handle.
  24. I have thought for a long time that you should hit a punch with your flat die of your hammer, but recently, I have seen some people turn to their round die for punching. Is their a reason or recommendation for this?(only applies if you have a rounding hammer...)
  25. I did a brass melt last week and cast a 4# hammer head. I cut the pattern with a wire foam cutter and cut my initials in it with my CNC router. Rammed it up in greensand with a core made from sand and sodium silicate. I got the metal a little hot and, yes, it smoked and had some flames. I put some charcoal on top to cut the flames and let it set to cool before I poured. It came out a little better than expected, cleaned it up and put it on a hickory handle. This was zinc brass with 70% copper and 30% zinc. I like to cast Brass and Bronze and hope to cast some more Iron this fall. It sure is too hot right now to do much in the shop. I've been casting for several years and worked in a steel mill. I use PPE and stay away from the fumes.