gewoon ik

I did not know they used still a lot of smithing in the art deco ironwork.

Thomas told once he used scale and grinddust. Can't remember where on ifi i read it.

almost both my tongs finished. But the empty gasbottle made the final call to not let me finish them. Only rivetting and the final adjustments needs to be done.

Ghent and antwerp have some old cool cranes in the harbor area.

I like the idea. By the time all hooks are changed, you want to remake the first 10 or so because you improved that much, you feel you can do better

Most of my stands are also filled with sand or floor dust (concrete floor that keeps giving of dust) with grinddust. Packs down good and cheap. Plus a nicr sweeped floor in my case.

Frosty The pigtail idea is great. Might borrow your idea sometime. I need some new tongs. A pair for 6mm flatbar. And a pair for hoops, also 6mm. I also recieved a nice couple of springs. Diameter 4mm. But coil-over style (leaking damper). Not sure how to safely disasemble the thing. The springs are very stiff. I'm not able to compress the thing by hand. So a bit scared of just twisting the gaffel off.

Slowly working my way to an object and not parts anymore.

Thanks all. I enjoy making good looking practical stuff like dooropeners. Waiting on clearcoat for one that go to my front door (stainless was better, but to expensive for what i need and not a size i find easely as a leftover)

The door to my (shared) workspace had some cheap and cheaper feeling doorpulls since a couple of months (before just rope, yeah cheap). I could not stand it. on the inside a classic shape with spades on the ends. Could align them a bit better. On the outside (still inside but outside the workshop) a nice doorpull with pine apple twist. And yes i could made my bolts and nurmts and screws, but i used what was there before. Happy feeling now opening and closing the door.

Cement clinker will harden over time. And it will be dusty if dry, more than normal concrete. Also softer, so over time you will wear it down and see walkways.

There are less of these size in the usa or less left over. And 500 euros incl shipping makes is almost double.

I didn't know you where that old

A long overdue project. It was eating valuable space on my worktable. And i had everything laying around to make it.

How is the welding going on the magnetic chuck? A magnet can interfer with the weld and can pull your arcstrike. Can make it challanging for tacking up small parts.

I have it even with sandblased shopprimered steel (stock from a shipyard) (hotrolled because cheaper). But it makes sence your explanation

I have the same problem. Some spots are red after forging. No idea how. Gasforge or coal forge i have it with both. Nice rack btw.

For welding you can grind the chrome away locally to the steel underneed and weld on it. Putting the rod in a campfire is like putting it in a forge. A lot of nasty chrome that you will inhale. A hydraulic shop mostly can or know a place where they rechrome those things. And those people can take it off. You can also use it as an anvil. I use a pen as an anvil

Chad i believe that thorbjorn is using blo on his coathanger. Knowing myself, i would propably only wirebrush it to remove the scale and soften any sharp corner or burr and leave it like that. Shaina, i made a rose like that 2 weeks ago. Was very timeconsuming the rolling. A small coalfire and plenty heats to get a nice result.

jen is now using patches to cure her smoking stack.

smoking can be solved by adding up to 10% parafinated oil (petroleum) in your dieselfuel owners of some oldtimer dieselcars put it in when it is getting colder to reduce the smoke. May helps, since you said it is an oily smell, not an acidic smell

If flashing is the piece of zinc (olden buildings still have lead) between the roof and wall, you can always cut it in the seams of the brickwork and fill it up with mortar again. Common used technic where i live. Does not need to be metal. Dpc or epdm is also used.

Backpain is not nice. I had several collegues with hernias as well. Be carefull when lifting anything, use your legs, tools, hoists, ... at much as possible to lessen the strain on your back. I wich you a good recovery and a painfree back.

The asphalts remelt probalbly due to the heat. I have done epdm myself on a very small roof (gardenshed). Don't do it on sunny days is my recommendation. (I start to sweat when I start thinking about it). But you need some pitch to drain te water off. They way the roof looks on the photo's is what latticino is discribing. You can always put stones (round ones) on the roof to stop it from blowing off. Take white or light grey colored ones and you have less heat. Looking at the roof, i don't think there is any waterdrain, the water is supposed to run of at one side of the roof (if the pitch is correct). Before putting the epdm, it is better to remove the asphalt (if possible) to see the structure underneed. If there is damage to whatever is underneed. Repair before covering it. Good luck

Cool thing.