gewoon ik

Tilleys and petromaxes are mantle lamps where you pressurise the fuel reservoir. Coleman does same thing, but different fuel. Tilley use lampoil or kerosine (lampoil is clearer kerosine, less aditives so cleaner flame), coleman uses petrol (or there expensive version of it). Different fractions, same priniciple. Lampoil or kerosine or petroleum are more or less the same. Difference is additives and design. But all heavier fuels, safe to handle. Better for heating and lighting Petrol is more dangerous, with the lower flashpoint and higher evaporation rate. Original intended of the lamps is different, hence the different fuelsources. Coleman has a verion on gas as well. Campinggaz also. Gives of a nice white light and lots. Unfortunatly when camping, the mantles are fragile to bumps (can be in the car) so keep a spare close.

Where i live the pressurised ones are or petromax or tilley lamps. Amd you call them by the brandname you know to make the difference between a normal oil lamp. (Bit like all diapers are called pampers) But thank you, i have now a fueurhand stormlamp (wicked) in order. Ideal as lighting when going camping.

Birthday of my girlfriend, so i made small rose We both are happy with the looks.

Remake of the hinges. Almost done. And out of gas. So yeah. Next week.

Goods i'm happy i'm not the only one messing up simple stamps (have to hard stamp for my job, had already several marks upside down as well. Always fun, a long number and than a numer 2 upside down.)

You do indeed. But it is not on that project I failed. The hinge that fight with me on thursday is scrap. Have another idea that will go quicker, less nice but it needs to get done. The big project you know, i can mention short. I don't have good picture of the parts so far, only my rough sketch and some samplepieces (althou the long round tentacles the idea is gopd, i start making them) Project for school, need to make a hinge. Need to have some complex techniques in it some ornamental stuff, some forgewelding, ... So i designed my own. Don't like the "traditional" forgings, not my style. So I ended up with a jellyfish (blame the kids, they wanted me to draw some and the idea came from there). The small tentacles are going to be round of 12mm above the ornamental piece at the bottom. And will taper to 18mm to the body. Lenght of 500mm. They will have dimples in it, quite large to give it structure. The ornamental piece will be bigger than in the drawing. Around 50mm in width. Will have 3 crisp points and a centerridge. in this picture i need to round it up more and starting structuring it. the flat tentacles will be tapered from 30 to max 40 to a point over a length of 350 to 400mm. They small end will be scrolled up to give it a tentacle look. It all will be structured with 2 fullers and the same rounding tool (to "hide" the mounting holes). These go quick with a guillotine-tool and heavy hamer. I have only an example of it the flat tentacles will be forgewelded to the hinge body. That will be made out of 4mm plate, with the start of the flat tentacles. The round tentacles will be installed with a tenon but the tenon will be 90° to the back. The upper part, those lines on the drawing, will become ridges. So an big project. I can use a power hamer to make all the parts so the drawing of the tapers should go quick. The first long tentacle was my first power hamer use and i did less than 3 hours making it, including a mould for the taper and the ornamental piece (no powerhamer) and the explanation and testing of the power hamer (on another piece) I don't think it will be used as a hinge (to pass the test, it needs to be functional), i need to make 2 and a very big door. Will probably live its live as an ornamental piece on a nice piece of wood.

I know, i have one. But i put it under when i think i'm almost there. What happend quicker than i anticipated 1 time, can happen. Twice, on the same material. Get lost!

Add all the swearwords you like and read on. I spend a couple of hours making a small hinge. First in making material of the proper size, to realize I don't have quite enough material to make the needed 2 pieces but maybe with some peening it will get there (same halves of 2 hinges) Than in splitting the piece and getting the lega 180° opposite. By doing that realizing that my anvil is way harder than my chisel (or i was getting quicker throu the material than i was realizing). And than doing the exact same thing on the other split. Than finding out i made a small calculation error in calculation how much material i needed for the eye (yes diameter*pi, but not the diameter of the hingepin). Some more fiddling to get some more material. Starting to form the eye. All looks good. And than I realize the eye needs to be wrapping around in the other direction. So i shut off the forge. And while typing this. I realize that i could have enoug material if i did my split differently, because both legs are not the same length in my design en the distance to short, is the difference between both legs. So instead of keeping the eyeparts in the middle of my stock and split from both ends, i needed to do the opposite. Now i run out of material and gas. Time well spend *cries in the corner of his workshop*

Ok thanks. Looks good.

I am to stupid to understand your honest anwer. Regular gray paint? (For use on metal offcourse) and you layer all those colors?

The isolation above my gasforge is 1,5m above. Those are the cheap PUR plates. You feel the heat on the isolation, but you can hold your hand against it without any problems, so temp below 60°C. Make a metal heatdeflector, keep a space between the garagedoor en the heatdeflector. Angle the deflector outwarts so that even hot air can escaoe to the outdoor.

Nice work alex. How to you finish your work? Hotwax, paint, ...?

Ah ok. Thanks. Indeed very praktical for sheet metal work

I have some croation friends that now live in the nederlands because of the war. They fled and never returned.

What is the tool in the box? Never seen it. The ruler/caliper looks funny. But can very helpfull

To be honest. I get the response of acein. And also to be honest, Steve is not always the most helpfull guy around here. Yes he knows a lot, and yes if you have patience to google up the old treats, you find a lot of info he shared. But half the old threats are unfortunalty unreadable because of missing posts, missing pictures, ... (i know a lot of fora has the same problem, 2 or 3 times a major update in 10+ years and you end up with this kind of mess unfortunatly). A direct link to his book might helping as well maybe (to buy, not to free read ). Or to share again, because I know also almost nothing about this and might learn something.

I know shaina i sometimes hot chisel a part, wondering why I heated it up so I can split it hot with a chisel, when i could already be busy finishing the part if i just cut it with a cut off/ hacksaw. Need to make some hinges amd did the same thing. They are in scrap, not because of the split, but because I &@# all the rest up. Thanks everybody for the tips and hits. Even if you think i don't read and just discuss. That is me. I listen and think out loud (or in this case, i read and typ it out ). Please don't stop just because. I like it and learn a lot ( if not blacksmithing, it is english)

As seen on youtube. Always made stuff, first repairing my car, than that needed welding so came more fabrication and a tiny bit machining (on borrowed tools, guy moved, so did his tools, never machined again). Waching youtube for info, ideas, ... and came across the channel of torbjörn åhman in my feed. Hmmm blacksmithing, what is that. And 3 year later was corona and as soon as the smithing lessons started, i was enrolled and smithing. Still smithing, still lessons to this day. Still having fun.

The bend in the fullered area is the intention. I bended it also by cooling the rounded part and the twisted part so that only the fullered part was orange-red (after all the cooling), to make sure it bended in the fullered part. But reading all the comments, even when everything is yellow, it will still bend in the fullered part. so maybe not cool everything that much and bend it so there is more heat left in the part that needs to bend to see if the stays nicer. the twist is done is 20mm (or you would start with 3/4", exact 13/16") square and I fullered to 12 or 13mm (+/- 1/2"). Maybe less fullering would also help, go to 15 or 16mm (+/- 5/8") instead. My used (spring)fuller has a diameter of 18mm (for you probably also 3/4" exact 11/16"). Billy there is yes, at least for piping I know

I agree on the "sharpness" of the bend. I also prefer to have a bigger radius, but somehow they bend that short. Both without jig. Stick the rounded part in my hardyhole and it was 90 degrees in no time. And my testpiece, same. It was square, but i fullered it and also to round because i like the look. The explanation of the length of deformation makes sense. I heated the part in my gasforge and cooled the rounded part so it doesnt deform. Side effect, the fullered part is not yellow but orange-red. Maybe that is the problem.

Doorhandle for my front door. But with a bit tweeking, i noticed a crack in one of the bends (inside). Also the bends look rough, rimpeled. Will probably make again and do the bending and tweeking hotter. Was very happy with how the twist came out, very evenly.

What an anti climax. After all was over, i locked up and played with the goats Glad only material damage.

and sunday you have iced over roads and monday the worst traffic to work

i have recently discovered that led (even the daylight) can change the perception of colors and make them look untrue (but if you don't know better, all is good) They also have a value for that. In my workshop I use a mixture of floodlights (small ones 10Watt/piece) and some overhead TL fixtures (half of them has a led in it, when they break, they get replaced). Over my workbench LED's for plenty light. Mixture of different lightcolors ranging from 5500K to 2300K. But most are 4000K; somehow i like that color (and most led TL replacements we use in that space are that color) The floodlights I used because I cannot install overhead lighting everywhere (rented place and ceiling is covered with isolation, no visible rafters and no structure to securly attach something in). So on the walls I installed plenty small floodlights so i have plenty of light from different sources and angles to eliminate as much as possible shadows. Works accectable.

but true, unfortunatly.